⟐ Commented 8월 12, 2026 at 17:49 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 8월 12, 2026 at 12:31 GMT-7

What wasn't apparent at first is that the touchscreen now has issues. Most of the time the Switch remains docked, but when undocking to go portable (from standby), the touchscreen doesn't function properly, registering ghost inputs, rendering the Switch inoperable. Thus far the only solution is to fully reboot the switch prior to undocking. After that, seems to work fine in portable.

This issue was NOT present prior to the repair. Now I see mixed explanations for this issue:

• Some posts talk about a potential incompatibility between the Switch and the Card Reader (something about there being multiple versions of the card reader), which I feel is unlikely since after a reboot the issues goes away, AND I know with confidence I have the original HAC-001 model and ordered the appropriate part from iFixit.
• Some posts says it may be as simple as the ribbon connecting the game card reader not being fully seated. While this would be great since I could just crack it open and reseat the ribbon, IMHO it still doesn't explain why the touchscreen works after a reboot.
• Some posts says I should just use the custom bootloader Hekate to calibrate the touchscreen but I have some apprehensions going down the modded Switch route, this is a family console primarily used by my Wife and kids and I don't want to mess something up.

Any ideas? I'm hesitant to crack it open again without being reasonably sure it will resolve the issue.

⟐ Commented 8월 12, 2026 at 6:52 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 8월 11, 2026 at 3:36 GMT-7

To add, before I replaced it, it was not going left or right. Replaced it and still does the same thing.

⟐ Commented 8월 09, 2026 at 13:32 GMT-7

Did I mess something up when I replaced the analog sticks? Is there anything I could check or do to try to correct this issue?

⟐ Commented 8월 08, 2026 at 16:35 GMT-7

If you connect the joycons, the sides of the screen animate correctly showing that they do connect, but never goes any further than this.

In recovery mode, the joycons do not work either. I am guessing the issue is related to bluetooth (I assume the joycons will pair on connection, and this is failing) but I cannot be sure as I can't get past the initial "connect the joy cons" screen.

The main thing throwing me off here is that the joycons appear to connect

⟐ Commented 8월 07, 2026 at 3:40 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 8월 06, 2026 at 3:00 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 8월 03, 2026 at 22:37 GMT-7

I ordered a new right rail from eBay. I thought the rail might be the problem . I replaced it successfully but no change. If anyone has an idea i would appreciate it.

⟐ Commented 8월 03, 2026 at 12:26 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 8월 02, 2026 at 23:44 GMT-7

Has anyone else experienced this?

⟐ Commented 7월 25, 2026 at 3:59 GMT-7

Switch 2 with both charging ports damaged. Replaced both ports and only 2 data lines were damaged on the main bottom port. Installed new lines and they show good on tester. There were 6 total ground lines damaged. 3 on top and 3 on the bottom. Replaced both ports and both ports are getting .512 amps. System is not jumping to the next stage to charge or turn on system. Not sure where to look on these. I don't see anything like a M92/P13/BQ or caps that test/look bad. Has anyone else had anything similar that was obvious? Much thanks for any guidance.

⟐ Commented 7월 22, 2026 at 22:15 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 7월 19, 2026 at 10:12 GMT-7

My game card catridge reader isnt working anymore(the pins got bent or broken). Any ideas where I could order a replacement part? And if there is any, since the console is like 6 months old.

Ty

⟐ Answered 7월 17, 2026 at 15:16 GMT-7

Does anyone has the bottom rail for the red mario edition switch oled? Or can i request the part on a site like this, or elsewhere?

Bought a mint switch oled mario for a cheap price. The only thing what is wrong, is the bottom rail molten. Finding this piece is easier said than done. Thanks!

Mike

⟐ Commented 7월 17, 2026 at 5:15 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 7월 12, 2026 at 23:56 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 7월 12, 2026 at 23:42 GMT-7

Has anyone tried this method? If so, are there any specific pitfalls I should watch out for? Also, are there existing guides I can use as prerequisites for removing the motherboard or midframe to make the process smoother for users? I want to make sure the guide is as efficient as possible while still being safe.

⟐ Answer accepted 7월 10, 2026 at 6:21 GMT-7

I recently successfully replaced the M92T36 IC on a Nintendo Switch motherboard using a hot air station. The console now boots up and charges normally. However, I am now facing an issue with the Right Joy-Con.

When I slide the right Joy-Con into the rail, the console does not detect it as attached (it stays on wireless mode). I opened up the console again to inspect the area and noticed that the ribbon cable and the FPC connector look perfectly fine.

However, upon closer inspection of the small SMD component cluster right next to the FPC connectors, I noticed that one SMD component at the very bottom of the row is completely missing (likely blown away or knocked off accidentally during my hot air rework of the M92T36).

I have attached a micro photo of my board showing the missing component's empty pads, alongside some reference screenshots from the iFixit teardown guide for comparison.

My questions are:

1. Is this missing component a resistor (in-series) or a filter/bypass capacitor (to GND)?

2. What is the exact value/specification of this missing component (looks like a 0402 package)?

3. If it is a resistor on a data/detection line, can I safely bridge the pads with solder or a jumper wire to restore the detection functionality?

I have a multimeter, soldering iron, and hot air station ready to fix this. Any guidance or schematic insights would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance for your help!