주요 콘텐츠로 건너뛰기

The fourth generation Volkswagen Jetta, also called the MK4 or the Bora, is Volkswagen's family sedan.

86 질문 전체 보기

Why isn't my heater actually heating?

hi i have a 2001 volkswagen jetta and well my problem is that i am not getting very hot air when i have the heater on and i am getting very annoyed with my mom always complaining about how she doesnt like the car and i can put it at max air and max heat and still only gives warm air. i have asked a few people and they say that it can be the thermostat or the the a/c button isn't working but the a/c is. and when i press the button to turn off a/c, a/c stays on even if it says it's off.

이 질문에 답하기 저도 같은 문제를 겪고 있습니다

좋은 질문 입니까?

점수 8
댓글 7개

What model Jetta is it and what engine does it have?

it is a 2001 volkswagen jetta gls 2.0L 4 door sedan

Probably it's broken and you have to fix it.

good answers

Is it the same for a 2003. My defrost works good, I feel heat with it but not heater. I was going to see about getting new coil but the price to get done. I'd rather check first. What do I do?

댓글 2개 더보기

댓글 달기

답변 7개

가장 유용한 답변

josue villarreal, yes, it is possibly that it is your thermostat. It is also possible that your heater core is clogged or the your fan is not working properly to forced air through the heater care. Also, make sure that you have enough antifreeze in your vehicle. Check the heater hoses, the lower hose is where cooled coolant reenters the engine. it should not be cold but will not be as hot as any other cooling system component. If there is no circulation (hose, radiator and heater core cool) then you may have a bad coolant pump. If both hoses are hot that would mean you have enough flow through the core, check the servo that opens and close the vent doors. If they do not open properly, you would not get enough flow to heat up your interior.. Hope this helps, good luck.


Just looked at the service manual for your specific model. thanks for letting us know which one it is. Check your Temperature Flap cable. Make sure that it is properly adjusted.

Temperature flap cable, installing and adjusting


Heating and ventilation controls are installed.

Connecting duct removed

Turn temperature rotary control knob to left onto stop.

Attach center wire of cable -1- to the temperature flap lever -2-.

Push temperature flap lever -2- to stop -arrow A- and secure outer cable -1- with clip -3-.

Turn temperature rotary control knob to left and right onto stops.

When turning the rotary control knob, both end stops must be reached.

Block Image

해당 답변은 도움이 되었습니까?

점수 5

댓글 2개:

great article!

THX this working!

댓글 달기

Regarding the a/c button, if you have the selector on defrost, the a/c should stay on. If you turn the a/c off, and turn the selector to one of the other settings (such as floor or vents), does the a/c turn off then?

Regarding the heater temperature, if the fan is blowing normally, it is likely either the thermostat is stuck open or the heater core is clogged, either internally (not allowing the coolant to flow through it properly) or externally (not allowing the moving air to pull the heat off of it properly). Does the car warm up to its normal operating temperature? If you have a temperature gauge, check to verify that it warms up to the middle of the normal range. If it does not, chance are good your thermostat is stuck open. If it does, then the thermostat is probably working correctly, and it is more likely that the problem is with the heater core.

해당 답변은 도움이 되었습니까?

점수 3
댓글 달기

There is a remarkably common problem with Jetta heater boxes. I have discovered it in my own 2003. When we purchased the car used we noticed a flurry of foam from the vents when heat or A/C was turned on, and thought not much of it. I just figured it was probably a lining of some vent that had worn over time. Since that time...with extremely poor heater performance my research led me to discover that the vent doors, once sandwiched with foam deteriorate over time and leave stamped metal doors with huge holes punched in them. These now obvious holes leave hot air to mix with outside air, and never divert hot air as they would if they were solid.

Since a pic...and a very helpful video is worth more than a thousand of my words...check this out if you discover all else recommended has failed. I believe you would want to take a look at this before you go replacing the heater core.


해당 답변은 도움이 되었습니까?

점수 3

댓글 2개:

Where can I get the material that you used on the doors when the foam has blown out in my face? Thank you so much for your post. You saved me a lot of money.

Don't bother replacing the foam, but if you choose to do so 3M has a very thin foam that can handle the temperature range required. My advice? Go get HVAC Duct tape..actual HVAC tape is metal. Duck brand is pretty thick, but any mallable metal tape will do. The foam was a way of keeping mold from growing in the vents and blowing smelly air in your face....if this happens just use lysol, about one can in your windshield vent should take care of enough of it; run your ac on high and to the floor and console, spray in. That works...just ask any Neon owner.

댓글 달기

I know this problem has an old date stamp but the problem is the air doors that direct the air flow to the A/C evaporator or the heater core have lost the foam seal on their sides. This also happens on the defrost/ floor door.

The job to have a auto shop reclaim all the freon in the A/C system and drain the coolant from the engine. Then disconnect the heater hoses and the A/C lines and Expansion valve from the evaporator. Then the time consuming fix this is to remove the dash and the heater/A/C unit and open it to reveal the doors. You can replace the seal by first cleaning off all that remains of the old seals and cutting out need seals from dinner plate protector sleeves found in moving departments of hardware stores. Cut it to the right size so the doors is sealed but not prevented from moving or sealing due to the new seal size. Using 3M spray tack, spray on one side of the new seal and after masking off the metal door, the one side of each door at a time with an even light coat. Let it dry 3 to 5 minutes and put the seal in place with "one shot" placement.

The age of car I would recommend that the heater core be replaced at the same time.

The car is worth it if it isn't rusted out. I have done several including to of mine. An auto shop will charge for 12+ hours of labor but a friend who likes to work on challenges could handle all but reclaiming of the freon.

Parts cost is less than $30.00 provided your anti-freeze is good and nothing gets broken.

Some good background music and a few cups of coffee always help the job go better!

해당 답변은 도움이 되었습니까?

점수 0

댓글 1개:

My local VW shop charges $185 per hour, making this job cost $2220 plus parts and sales tax. Probably better to buy a different car. But there are tutorials on YouTube showing how to fix the blend doors without removing the heater box or dealing with the heater core or A/C freon. Still a lot of time needed to do it.

댓글 달기

One day I noticed the heater would not produce any heat, not matter what the position of the thermostat.

It turned out the thermostat cable tied to the knob was disconnected behind the console.

Apparently this is a fairly common problem with this car and garages love it because it can be made to look like an expensive repair, such as A/C replacement, etc.

Instead I fixed it with just a couple screwdrivers and a little bit of time.

There's a lot of plastic covers to remove but in the end, I could find the connector that was indeed disconnected. It plugs up, so I suspect after 15 years, it slowly nudged itself down via gravity and vibrations.

Even though it's somewhat difficult to access with your fingers, I was able to plug it back up.

Works like a charm now!

Long story short, I compiled the few videos that helped me remove the plastic covers in order to get access to the console. Counter-intuitively, you have to start from the back seat to remove the center console and work your way towards the front.

Then follow the cable that connects the thermostat and the other end might be dislodged just enough that it cannot control the heater anymore.




해당 답변은 도움이 되었습니까?

점수 0
댓글 달기

heater core 100 % thats all it could be

해당 답변은 도움이 되었습니까?

점수 0

댓글 1개:

Usually, you know it's the heater core as it makes a nice antifreeze pool in your passenger footwell or it blows a heater hose from being clogged. More than likely the temp doors no longer have their foam intact or one of the control cables has become dislodged or snapped. All in all a visual inspection and test of the aforementioned parts will offer more insight than just guessing and wasting money on something that's not the problem.

댓글 달기

I’m pretty sure the previous owner blocked off your coolant hose return line, they do this to bypass coolant after a hose bust or (not very common) your heater core is leaking.

해당 답변은 도움이 되었습니까?

점수 0
댓글 달기

귀하의 답변을 추가하세요

josue villarreal 님은 대단히 고마워 할 것입니다.
조회 통계:

24 시간 전: 3

7일 전: 14

30일 전: 121

전체 시간: 96,952