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Hi ,
I am thinking to use a Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra ( http://www.coollaboratory.com/en/product... ) but as per instruction manual it corrodes the aluminum and its recommended only for copper heat sink.
Thanks for your help.
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With these, the heatsink is copper so you can use Liquid Metal, but you need to put some isolation on the CPU like a conformal coating (and around the CPU) to avoid shorting anything as it is a metal based thermal paste and any spillage WILL DAMAGE the system if it gets in the wrong place. If it happens, the damage would require deep board level TSing, and potentially a new CPU if anything got there and it's dead ($$, plus the CPU will have to be used as Intel doesn't sell these individually being OEM BGA), or a new board ($$$, might as well buy a whole new laptop expensive). I don't recommend it due to the cost of repairs if you get it wrong, but with the proper isolation it can technically be done.
However, it does eat at the heatsink so you will have a permanent stain unless you "lap" the heatsink or replace it. It USUALLY doesn't harm the performance, but it's very obvious you put it on.
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Liquid metal TIM's have there place, a high performance desktop is the ideal use when the CPU/logic board is held horizontally so there is no risk of the TIM from shifting. As the liquid metal TIM heats up it becomes more fluid so while you can apply a conformal coating it may not be enough to contain the TIM from spreading so its not wise to use it on chips which sit vertically in a logic board.
Laptops is not the best use case for liquid metal TIM's, they are often shifted about and carried on edge (vertically) so the risk of the TIM shifting to more sensitive areas is present.
Is there a need for liquid metal TIM's? I do wonder if there is a real need for them. Most people rarely push their CPU's to the edge for long periods and to add to it the systems heatsinks ability to shed its heat often means the heatsink is already at saturation so trying to get more heat transferred to if from the CPU is not the area in the movement of the heat away that has the biggest effect.
This is a large issue with Apple systems as they haven't built the most effective heat management solutions in their laptops. Apple for a long time didn't see their gear used as a gamer system or even as a professional level image and video production. With more people using them for these heaver tasks Apple has now corrected its view with the 2019 onward systems making a bigger effort as the 2016/18 systems were a heat failure with the hotter running Intel chips.
@danj This stuff is primarily used for overclocking, not production systems.
@nick - Agreed! Apple systems aren't really able to be overclocked and a laptop is not the best system either.
@danj The 2014/15 cooling is workable, but yeah... I sometimes get vibes it's being run hard against the shutdown limit. I just can't beat on this 2014 Retina like an M1 :-(.
@nick - My 2015 15" models seem to be OK, I keep the fans clean and they have sizable internal SSD's which only host the OS and App's, leaving most of the drive empty for virtual RAM, Caching and Scratch space my apps leverage . Otherwise all of my work is held on external drives.
Sure it would be nice to render the RAW images to JPEG a bit quicker but I haven't really pushed them as hard as others I know.
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First your system is so new it shouldn't need any alteration of the thermal conduction system.
The design of the MacBook Pro systems won't allow the use of this product without making major modifications of the heat sink, which in turn will make it less effective than the current design and will void your warranty. Two steps back one step forward ;-{
Basic cleaning should resolve overheating issues (dust buildup on the fan and fins). If this was an older system then it might make sense to refresh the thermal paste to the Arctic product which is what we use when needed.
I would first do some diagnostics on why your system it is overheating if that is the case. Get a good temp & fan monitoring app like: Temperature Gauge Pro and use Active Monitor to see what app or process is consuming the CPU's cycles.
More often than not, I find bad apps or a stuck process is the root issue of many heat issues, with hardware I often find the wrong HD or SSD was used in an upgrade (which shouldn't be an issue here).
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Tnx for the answer Dan.
My mac is more than 2 years old and i'm planning to open it and clean up.
Still wondering about refresh of the thermal paste.
Dan, this uses a copper heatsink-I don't think the OP will have a problem with using this in the rMBP-they just need to insulate the resistors and whatnot during application.
Nick - Cool Laboratories product is a pad which requires space between the chip and the heat sink. In a desktop this is not a big problem as there is often lots of space around the area. In laptops the issue is Space (the lack of it). So the 3~4mm needed will push the heat sink up to high. To deal with that one would need to mill down the surface of the heat sink, which alters the sinks mass, which lessens the sinks ability to transfer the heat.
Plamen - The best solution is a high grade of thermal paste to replace your old paste if you really think it needs it. This is what we use: Arctic Silver Thermal Paste and the cleaner. Follow this IFIXIT guide: MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2012 Heat Sink Replacement if you really think thats the issue. But again focus on cleaning the dust buildup and use Temperature Gauge app to see what is running hot. We have quite a few laptops and I'll tell you we rarely redo the paste on systems as young are yours because the paste had failed. We have found a few bad heat sinks where the liquid inside them has leaked out though.
Dan
Sorry for the late answer , but i was on a trip during weekend.
Cool Laboratories product its not a pad. It's normal paste. See the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3N3D1zae... . I used this one on 2 other PC notebook and the results was extremely good and much better than Arctic Silver Paste. Only problem is that you can't used it on aluminum heat sink. Anyway I already know that heat sink is from copper so again tnx for the help guys.
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