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Can't remove tri point 000 screws in iPhone with ifixit bit.

I'm having a difficult time removing the y000 screws in the iphone 7. I got this bit from ifixit. I don't feel like this bit is truly getting a good grip in the screw. I've stripped 2 of them on the home button. I need to remove the lcd plate and home buttom for a screen replacement. Are these bits not high quality bits? I've seen in other forums where they say it's crucial to have a quality bit or they'll strip easily. I managed to get one off but the others won't budge. I've had not issues with the phillips screws and easily got the camera off. Now I'm going to have to take this to a repair shop and ask them to remove these screws for me. I've tried using a rubber band and duct tape with no luck. Anyone have suggestions on a higher quality bit? I only have the y000 and y0 bits. Not the y00 so can't try the next largest bit.

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what where you going do with the ruberband and duct tape is some method to getting a the srew out?

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Yes, a good tip to removing a screw with a stripped head, is to put a rubber band (single layer, not double), over the screw head, then try again. The thickness of the elastic, plus the extra grip it gets, will most times allow you to get the screw out. I guess the same MAY work with Duct tape, but I have never had to try. Rubber bands usually work for me, (& I only have to follow the postman a few yards up the road, where he discards them!).

I would normally use a replacement screw, rather than trying to get the damaged one back in, just in case I have to remove it again!

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I also had this problem with an iphone 7 plus that came in and I had 3 different drivers I bought from 3 different places and also the free cheap one that came with the new screen replacement.

I ended up having to take a straight screwdriver I got in one of my iphone 6 replacement screen kits and taking a file to it, looking under a scope and an hour and a half of tinkering with it to get them all out to get my customers phone completed.

Since then, I have returned 2 of the Y000 to amazon and tried 2 other suppliers there, went to ebay and bought one from the UK.

This was recently, so they have not came in yet but will keep you posted on which one works best. But with 4 different tips from 4 different places and still no luck finding a good one, I think its gonna be hit and miss with finding a good one.

BUT...the file and cheap straight one got me past the immediate need, but did have to use magnification to get it just right.

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Wow, so you filed another tip to try to get it to fit the screw head? I'm just doing this on the side for a friend. I've done my own (older) iphones a few times with no issue. This is very disappointing. I think that ifixit needs to update the iphone7 repair guide to indicate how difficult these screws are to remove. Guess this is apples best effort at making repair impossible. I don't really have the time to try to get these out myself so I'll have hope that a local shop will remove them for me so I can finish the job. Thanks for the info Michael. If I ever decided to do my own repair biz I know that I'll need to get innovative to get some of the new phones apart!

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I really don't think that it's "Hard" to remove the screws as it is hard finding a good quality tool. I read all the reviews of a lot of them and they are so mixed! 194 people rate a tool with 4 to 4.5 stars out of 5 so I buy it with only a handful of people rating a 1 or 2...just to be in the category of the 1 to 2 rating when I received them...so I am guessing that it's the consistency of the tool maker and die used to create them (I guess).

Sort of like trying to remove a transmission with a screwdriver and a wrench...Having the right tool makes all the difference in the world!

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Just called a local shop who recommended esdabem brand tool for iphone7. You get a kit of 3 drivers but they say they work no problem on the tri point screws. I just ordered mine, I'll repost with update on how well it works when I get it.

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I hope they work for you...this was one I ordered last weekend that was returned. They gave me a credit and I reordered it to see if I just got a bad one. the Phillips and pentalobe were ok but the Y000 was junk and I had to make my own that day. I added a pic in my answer above

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I wouldn't recommend using any 000 drivers. I use 00. Really don't have these problems

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The problem is that most of the drivers are too pointy, and the screws arw nowhere near as deep. If you take some fine sand paper and sand or file the tip flat so that when you look at the end of the bit under a light you’ll see a “Y” shape that’s rather thick or “bold”, instead of a sharp point, or a very thin “Y” shape that’s not well defined.

Remember though, don’t keep trying bits that don’t grab right away. every attempt that fails to turn it will take a little more metal from the screw.

UPDATE: after finally finding a proper Y000 driver at a local electronics store I was able to complete a repair on an Apple Watch series 3. While I did have some success filing down a cheap tri-wing driver until it fit the screws, there was one screw that it wouldn't loosen. The bottom line is this:

  1. Get a proper Y000 driver, don't use Y00 as someone suggested. Don't use hot glue. Rubber bands do sometimes work but they won't in this case because the screw is too small and the driver will poke right through the rubber band with the application of any pressure.
  2. This is one of those things that requires a little bit of money to be spent because the tool manufacturing process and material used both need to be top-notch.
  3. If the tool is advertised as one that's made for Apple products then it's probably going to work fine provided it's from a reputable tool maker.
  4. If you keep trying to drive a Y000 screw with a tool that doesn't grab well you'll strip the top of the screw and then you'll need to find a way to make a straight groove in the top which will allow you to remove the screw with a tiny slotted driver (flat head). There are a ton of problems that can arise as a result of this. Metal flakes can get lodged in between surface-mount components and do more damage to the device. Also you could slip and cause more damage. Etc.

The best way is almost always the originally intended way. (Except when the originally intended way is to pay Apple to fix it.) Good luck.

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댓글 6개:

Ed you're the man! Just the advice to sand the tip to remove the point and blunt it up a little was exactly what I needed to do!

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I also feel like the problem is the that point is too pointy for the shallow screw heads. I was thinking about filing the point down, but wasn't sure.

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Glad I could help!

의

GENTLY sanding the point flat is the correct answer, you don't have to worry about Ed's update though what was said in the update isn't wrong, just extra.

I say this because my personal ifixit kit had overly sharp tri-wing bits for the incredibly shallow iphone screws but I never really noticed until recently because most of my apple work is at the shop.

JUST A FEW passes on a tiny strip of 200grit sand paper was all it took to take my ifixit Y000 from "too pointy trash" to "you again weild the screw driver of the gods and it fits everything perfectly". Note that the millimeter or less being removed will not affect usage in deeper screws. (this is a good trick for restoring most pentalobe drivers that are wearing out too).

This is the closest this kit ever came to disappointing in even a minor way but it still triumphed over what was a manufacturing blemish. I'll always recommend the ifixit drivers and bit kits over anything else. Happy fixing!

의

Hmm, well I did mention that one or the screws would not loosen despite my modification to the driver. So take that for whatever it may be worth. There are tool manufacturers that make far superior products and I feel that it's always worth it to buy the best that you can afford. Of course the cost is not a proven indicator of quality but the best tools do, typically, cost more.

I will say that iFixit's kits have been fine for me. The only exception was the tri-point Y000 that came with my first kit. I bought another kit, through my work, a couple of months later and did not have to modify the Y000. There are obvious differences between the two drivers and I'm guessing that they decided to switch to a different manufacturer, or the manufacturer improved their product.

Also possible: The screws in the first iwatch that I repaired were abnormally difficult to remove. But at least we have a workaround for anyone having this issue.

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I've been buying these for years. They're crappy Chinese drivers. But their 00 and work ever single time for millions of passes. Eventually they break. The top, the bottom. But they work great for at least a year or two. Now they've become more and more difficult to find, and I'm starting to think about what I should get next. Why does iFixit discontinue good equipment????

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Just a suggestion: it may not be the bit but the driver. I have found using a driver with a larger diameter handle allows you to exert more torque on the screw and downward force to keep it from twisting out. The driver handle in the old 26 bit set was excellent for this but I can't find anymore. This is also a very good driver:

[링크된 제품이 누락 또는 비활성화 됨: IF145-326]

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This is a good point but remember, when dealing with something delicate like an iWatch (in fact if you're using a tri-point Y000 driver, then your likely dealing with exactly that) you should take care when exerting any kind of force. If your driver is the correct type and of good quality then there shouldn't normally be a need to exert such force. They often "lock" the screws with Loctite or similar epoxy material but it never presents that much of a problem and snaps free easily when used on screws this tiny. Using a needle to clear excess material from the top of the screw is sometimes needed.

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I had the same problem and I asked for refund. Then I bought Wiha Y000. IT IT AMAZING!

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Wiha makes the very best precision type of drivers like 00, and 000 and torque bits. They are made in Europe, I think Germany. There are a couple of other German tool companies that make great precision hand tools but I can’t remember the names right off. I hope this helps

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Yes. Go Germany!

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I got three out with a blue 00 philips with just an ounce of torture,the home button screw was not budging and the ones on the shield I recommend replacing with a Philips if you do actually get them out.I learned that this drive first came about with Nintendo items and so I imagine if you order them for a Nintendo quality kit you will have solved the issue.

Thanks Apple

Again........

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I had same issue removing screws on iphone7 and what I found was that there is some plastic or glue (blue) on screws that might be holding them tight in the groove. Have to turn it with lot of pressure applied on screws. So far successful with LCD panel screen but no luck with home button yet

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Yes the blue glue is called "thread lock". All the more reason to be sure to obtain the correct, quality tools for the job.

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It really is hit and miss, I had a middle home button screw that would not budge, managed to bend the metal clip and get the whole thing out , put it in the new phone and luckily it still worked . Ive done lots of these and have had about 4 or 5 screws that wouldn’t budge . As soon as you fail a couple of times, it’s stripped

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http://www.appleoemparts.com/tools/tri-p...

i just got mine here. seems to work fine. cuss the chinese one that i used before was junk.... it just stripped lol

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I have had this problem with many screws. With one, I found hot gluing a cheap screwdriver to the screw and using that to unscrew it, however it is not 100% reliable. It worked for some, but another repair I simply had to rip the bracket off and hope for the best (thankfully successfully). Hope this helps

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Having had this problem and thought it impossible to undo the LCD screws, I managed it. I did this with a regular cheap Y aka 3 point screwdriver that came free with the replacement LCD.

The steps are as follows:

1) Place the backside of the screw (and so the LCD shield edge) against the edge of a table/bench. This is so you can push down in the screwdriver with enough vertical force to have it stay engaged in the screw.

2) Observe where the three slots of the screw are aligned so you can tell if you have moved it at all after step 5.

3) Place the screwdriver carefully so the 3 points on the screwdriver line up with the slots in the screw.

4) Push down very hard vertically to engage the screwdriver in the slots.

5) Slowly turn the screwdriver. You only need to turn it no more than 90 degrees (quarter turn) to break the initial torque/thread lock.

6) After step 5 the screw should be loose. You do not need to exert too much vertical pressure anymore. It should spin out quite freely.

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Ok, but if you need this kind of leverage because you're applying that much pressure to the screw that's not good - for two reasons:

1. If you slip while trying to remove the screw you'll jab that screwdriver right into something important and further break your device.

2. If you don't manage to loosen the screw then you will have stripped the top of the screw completely and now you've added another level of difficulty to the issue.

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Have anyon else chosen to drill these idiotic Y screws out?

I would guess the plate can easily be secured with a bit of thin tape.. or just left out maybe?

Can't see it does much except to make it hard for us to repair and iPhones

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I did not drill them out... I decided to rip the thing out (probably not the best choice as I only have had a 50% success rate) however if you can, avoid drilling or ripping out at all costs. As long as the board isn’t stabbed then it’s probably easier to go with brute force, as the ribbon cables won’t be needed with the new screen.

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I have actually had to resort to drilling several times. My biggest piece of advice would be to be very patient and only drill in areas where there aren't any necessary components. Accidentally ruined part of a home button and lost Touch ID forever. Good luck!

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I have had to resort to drilling out screws a few times. Just remember the drill bit only needs to be as wide as the screw, not the screw-head. Depending on the screw, you can almost always "convert" the screw so that a good flat-head driver will grab it. Would be nice if someone invented a device that could not only hold the device in place but also apply turning force (drilling, unscrewing, etc.) precisely with no chance of slipping and wrecking the electronics nearby. Like a drill press but more delicate.

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I just filed one of the small flatblades from an iPhone tool kit to a small point just big enough to fit inside the triangle. Took a minute and worked easily first time.

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I think that these screws are Microstix and not triwing?

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I had this problem with just one of the four Y000 screws. What finally worked was stretching a piece of exercise band (like a very thin rubber band) over the tip of the screwdriver, and then pressing it very firmly into the screw.

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The stretched layer of band was just enough to provide grip without preventing the screwdriver from engaging with the slots in the screw.

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