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Repair guides and support for the Braun Oral-B Triumph 9900 electric toothbrush.

Is my 3757 Oral B toothbrush repairable? On button doesn't work

Yesterday my 3757 Oral B toothbrush worked fine; it was fully charged. This morning it worked briefly, then turned off, and finally the on button doesn’t work at all. I don’t know the age of this product—is it repairable?

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My oral b triumph v1 stopped on its own and then started up. I finally got it to stop when I placed it back in the charger. It now doesn't work. My charge indicator on my oral b triumph v1 shows fully charged. When I take it out of the charger for awhile and then put it back it indicates that it is charging.

I have taken my oral b triumph v1 apart to replace the battery. My battery has a voltage of 1.3 or close to that number.

Do you think it is the battery or is it time for a new tooth brush?

how do i have my Oral B electric Toothbrush rectified as it has suddenly stopped working even with FULL Charge.

Please advise.

Davidtrajah@yahoo.com

Thanks for this cool toothbrush. it's so quality. .

I have just repaired my 3757. It was obvious that the rubber button cover was in a bad way. I opened it using a YouTube video for correct model and the button inside worked fine. I cut out the centre of the cover and rebuilt it using Sugru (in blue!). Gave it a good clean and lube. Put a sliver of foil behind the Sugru to press the button more precisely. Works fine but don't know for how many more decades...!

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Hi,

Possibly.

It could be a faulty power button or it may be a faulty battery that is failing to hold its’ charge and that is why it won’t start when you press the power button.

Here’s a link to the user manual that shows how to open the toothbrush so that access to the NiMH rechargeable battery (and also the Power button) is possible. Scroll to the end of the document to see the procedure

They state that in doing this that the handle is destroyed BUT here’s a link that shows how to replace the battery in an Oral B 3709 toothbrush.

Since it has the same handle as a 3757 model (it says in 3757 manual that it has a 3709 handle) it should help to replace the battery in your model toothbrush as well.

Replacement NiMH batteries with solder tags are available at electronics parts stores.

It is inadvisable to try and solder standard NiMH batteries (that haven’t got the solder tag) as you have to apply too much heat and you can damage the battery and also injure yourself if it suddenly vents explosively.

If the battery is OK then the Power button (and/or its’ associated circuitry) needs to be tested to see if it is OK. If the button is faulty then replacing it may be problematical as it is doubtful that a replacement power button part is even available. I couldn’t find one perhaps you may have better luck.

Worth a try anyway.

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@bloomnfun ,

It might depend if the battery is holding its' charge or not.

One symptom of a failing battery is that it will appear to "fully charge" voltage wise, but then when you go to use it it will discharge very quickly or even if you don't use it, it will self discharge more quickly than usual, as its’ charge capacity has actually diminished.

Even rechargeable batteries have a lifespan.

If you do decide to replace it make sure that you get a battery with solder tabs - example only (assuming its a AA size and not a AAA size) as a replacement. This way you won’t have to apply too much heat to the battery to solder it into position as you would if you just got a standard replacement battery

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Take it apart as you would to replace the battery (see instructions here or one of the many Youtube videos. The 'on' switch is a snap-type of switch, whose contact are likely corroded (they are copper). Take the chrome retainer/cover off of the top of the switch by prying one of the two sides that are clipped over the switch (a magnifying headset or glasses would be helpful). The chrome 'snap' button just lifts up, revealing the copper contacts. Scrape/clean these, as well as the underside of the round 'snap', and clean with Deoxit afterwards. Test the switch contacts by shorting them with a small screwdriver to turn the toothbrush on and off. If it doesn't turn on, it is not the switch, but something else - perhaps the motor (brushes wear out). If the motor turns on and off, then re-assemble in the same order. Use tweezers to pry the top chrome cover back over the switch and bend back under to secure. Test switch before putting the toothbrush back together.

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I have a Braun Pro 1000 with a confirmed faulty on/off switch. I have 1.3VDC on one side and 0 VDC on the other when the switch is pressed. The switch is surface mount so you'd want a hot air rework station https://www.ebay.com/itm/114918960389?va.... If I jumper across the switch and the toothbrush works, I might salvage a switch from another scrapped unit. Since I can get a new toothbrush locally for $40 I doubt buying one for parts makes sense.

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Confirmed the toothbrush operates when I momentarily short across the two tabs closest to the bottom of the circuit board. When I momentarily short (once) across the top two tabs the motor goes to 1/2 speed. When I repeat that the motor stops.

I don't know under what circumstances I would buy a new unit to yield spares for a faulty one! If the faulty one was gold-plated?

Ordered 4X3X2mm replacement switches. https://www.ebay.com/itm/303603286453 None of the sellers provides a pinout showing the internal function of the switch but all the dimensions are correct for type 3791 and it will probably repair the toothbrush.

With shipping, Oral B Pro 1000 "for parts" toothbrush ends up costing more than half the cost of a new one, so buying an Oral B Pro 1000 (for parts) doesn't make sense.

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As Brian Salomon observed, the control buttons are generally momentary action and called "tactile switches". They are very low current and could not switch the motor current directly. This is possible because the control microprocessor has such a low current when in standby (waiting for a "switch-on" signal) that it can spend 99.9% (approx!) of the time like that. The same switch can deliver a signal to increase the speed or stop, depending on how the algorithm interprets it...

In the case of my model 3757, the original fault was failure of the rubber membrane that seals off the tactile switch. I eventually fixed it using "Sugru" rubber. But the switch had been wetted and corroded. I easily bought a replacement; they are in lots of tactile switch goody-bags.

But I tried to unsolder a battery connection so that the switch could be replaced un-powered (and the motor not immediately start!). In doing so I think I cooked the electronics, so shorting the switch no longer switched on the unit, even though the battery was still in circuit.

A Repair Cafe colleague soldered the surface-mount replacement switch onto the PCB for me very neatly, even though I owned up to my cookery. So it looks beautiful...

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I just replaced the on/off switch. You need a very fine tip and minimum heat. If I soldered only one tab at a time the toothbrush stayed off. Digikey had te right switches. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filt...

To remove the switch, I needed a hot air rework station. Removing the switch 1st and measuring the pad spacing made it possible to get the exact tab spacing I needed (3.5mm X 2mm) on the switch. Digikey has a great search tool.

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