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6s와 유사한 하드웨어 사양의 4-inch iPhone은 2016년 3월에 출시되었습니다. 16/64GB 저장 옵션 및 은색, 스페이스 그레이, 금색 또는 로즈 골드로 제공됩니다. 모델 A1662 및 A1723.

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Screen swap now won't stay on

Hi guys,

I replaced my cracked iphone se (gen1) screen and after restarting, the battery health says "service", and it restarts every 3 minutes or so. Everything is connected and I followed the youtube how-to.

I reconnected the old screen and a different battery but still have the same issue.

I've replaced the screen and battery on this phone before (I guess 3rd party parts dont last) but this time I've run into this weird issue. Any idea what I can do?

Panic log:

panic(cpu 1 caller 0xfffffff00dd1af58): userspace watchdog timeout: no successful checkins from thermalmonitord since load\nservice returned not alive with context : is_alive_func returned unhealthy : current 1fffffe, mask 1ffffff, expected 1ffffff. EC: 1 EH: 3758097110 3758097110 SD: 0 BC: 0 RC: -1 BS: 0, Missing sensor(s): TG0B \nservice: backboardd

According to panicfull.com, the error description is "Battery is not being detected and identified correctly by the i2c/Swi bus" and offers this advice:

Replace Charging Flex with another one of EOM preference.
Check charging circuit and battery detection, including the battery itself.
Visual analysis of the flex meshes.
Battery fpc.
Inspection of the loading part.
Open Swi/i2c bus.

If I plug the phone into an outlet it recognizes the cable so it shouldn't be the charging port. I swapped batteries and it shouldn't be that since it restarted with the new battery but gave the same error. I'm not sure what the other recommendations refer to though.

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It sounds like you have nudged or knocked of the filter that is circled. Check it under some form of magnification.

Block Image

If you have disturbed this component and haven’t got the equipment or experience to solder it back on or jump it you can use something like this between the two pads.

Block Image

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Where is that located? Is that the power plug on the main board? If that tiny piece has been knocked off, is that fixable or would I need a new mainboard?

I think you've got this nailed on the head. It's a SUPER common issue with the 5S and first generation SE. Easy to do inadvertently (have done it my own self, even as a seasoned iPhone repair tech) and would cause this issue.

With this filter missing or damaged, the line which sends battery data to the charging chip will be broken. Hence the service note in the settings. The phone assumes the battery needs service since it knows power is coming in but it's not getting information about charge levels or temp, etc.

It's an easy fix with the right tools and some soldering know how. Technically you don't even need to replace the filter, the line just needs to be completed. But replacement would be far preferable.

@chaseincats This is the battery connector on the logic board. I believe on the SE there may be some foam around the connector. But I don't recall for certain.

@Alisha C - I actually don't really know how (or have the tools) for micro soldering. When you say the line just needs to be completed, is that something that's doable without being able to solder all that well?

I ended up cobbling together 1 phone out of the other SE parts I had laying around. RIP that mainboard.

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Are you sure it's rebooting at 1 minute intervals? Because normally when an iPhone gets into a boot loop it's due to the phone being unable to read a sensor, and that scanning cycle goes on at 3 minute intervals.

Fortunately, that length of time gives you enough time to check the panic logs in order to determine which sensor has failed. User @flannelist has written an invaluable guide to kernel panics that will help figure out what's gone wrong with your phone.

iPhone Kernel Panics - iFixit

Read through that and use it to pull up the panic logs and find the missing sensor; that will point you in the right direction as to what part needs to be replaced.

My current thought is to wonder if the flex cable that connects the motherboard to the buttons, rear microphone and flash unit got damaged during your battery replacement if you had to fight with it in the case where the adhesive strips break off and don't come out cleanly. There's also the possibility the battery took some damage; either the flex cable or the connector; it has sensors on it as well that will cause a boot loop if the logic board can't read them.

So yeah, grab those panic logs and add them to your question so we can see what's going on with them and we'll go from there. You may end up replacing the volume button flex cable and/or the battery, would be my guess, but we'll know more when we see the logs.

EDIT: I finally found a picture of what Chris ( @imicrosoldering ) is talking about. The one he's worried about is marked with a red square around it, but if you look where the arrow is pointing you will see what it looks like when one is missing.

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Thanks for replying so quickly!

This was actually replacing the screen (but I had to unplug the battery as part of the process).

I was wrong - the buttons and everything seem to work for the (you're right 3 minutes) that it stays on. I went to 'privacy' to pull the panic log and there is definitely a bunch of logs from today there.

I was able to view one once, but when I start the phone and click 'privacy' it hangs there for a good 2.5 out of my 3 minutes to pull these logs and half the time it doesnt connect to wifi or Verizon fast enough to export them.

Is there any other way to get those off the phone?

Scratch that, I got lucky and was able to pull a few just now - I'll add that to the main question like we were talking about.

@chaseincats, I see your logs now, and you're correct that it's the battery sensor that's giving your phone fits. I just had to replace a battery that I damaged in the process of getting it out when the pull tabs broke; it was doing the exact same thing as yours. I bought a new one and the problem went away.

Unfortunately, that doesn't seem to be the case with yours, given you've tried two batteries and they're both doing the same thing.

I'm thinking you should probably check the battery connector on the motherboard for any kind of damage; bent or broken pins, foreign objects lodged in it, etc. Use a magnifying glass and a bright light, then clean it with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol and reconnect the battery and see if that's helped.

If not, then as unlikely as it seems, it could simply be that you've got two bad batteries and perhaps a new one would fix things. The nice thing about your SE is that it's gotten to the point where parts for it are pretty cheap.

@chaseincats If you get through all of that, we can try and dig deeper; I'll see if I have schematics for the SE and if so we can chase down the I2C communication lines that go to the battery and verify you've got continuity for the signals.

I ended up cobbling together 1 phone out of the other SE parts I had laying around. RIP that mainboard.

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