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Nintendo's first 3DS handheld device released February 2011, identified by model number CTR-001.

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3DS doesn't charge. Powers on with charged battery.

Hi, I just got two 3DSs to experiment with repairing them.

The one in this question does not charge, but it will power on if the battery has charge.

When plugged into the charger, the battery terminals measure bit under 4V, however the charging light does not turn on (battery or no battery).

When I first tried charging it, the battery went from 2.43V to 3.10V but would not go any higher. During this whole time the charging LED was off. I put the battery in another 3DS, charged it and placed it back and it powered on.

If I try to plug the 3DS in, and then remove the battery, it does not stay on.

Anything I could try to repair this board?

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Comparing some values to the working one, next to (what I assume is) charge chip, one of the two capacitors measures around 3.9V difference across, but on the working one it's 0.6V. But both caps seem alright.

I'm suspecting it might be the chip itself, but I'm going to probe around a bit more later.

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@stereobucket let's see what you have going on here. Post some good pictures of your motherboard so we can see what you see. There are a few things that you want to do before measuring the circuit. When you say that But both caps seem alright., how did you check that. Not saying it is not the PMIC but you need to make sure that everything else is in good working order. The way I would proceed is by checking

Check fuses, F1 should be the power fuse and F2 the charging fuse. Check for continuity.

Check power supply connector. Re-solder or replace if required. Measure the voltage on the board where the connector is soldered to.

Check all connectors for lcds, cameras, wifi card are in place and properly attached.

While you try to charge, measure the voltage on the battery connection and see what voltages you get.

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Thanks for the tips. I've added the images of the board.

Fuses are alright, they connect. The power connector did separate on the shield, but the power pins were still connected. Nevertheless I added some solder to all.

I'm testing the board without components attached. Reference working board has different behaviour. One such different behaviour is that on the broken one the charge chip outputs 3.91 V out of both the battery and output pins, and will fall down to whatever the battery voltage is when it's inserted. The working one will rise to ~4V at the battery terminals once the charger is plugged in (but will fall to 0.6V with no battery).

I think the battery charger chip (smaller one above the buttons) is BQ24072.

One thing of note, the working one has the PGOOD pin pulled low while the nonworking hovers at ~1.8V at all times (battery, charger, both)

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@stereobucket "PGOOD pin pulled low while the nonworking hovers at ~1.8V at all times" sounds like it does not know that it is supposed to charge. Could still be the IC. Comfortable in may be trying a quick reflow? That's what I would try.

Gazillion test points....I wonder if there is anything about those. that would make live so much easier.

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I will try to reflow it. Should I do this with flux? I don't do soldering often so I don't have it at hand, but I've been meaning to order some so I can do other work as well. If I'd need it I'll do it when the order arrives.

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@stereobucket yes. Lots of flux :-)

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I'm not an expert but it might be the chip. What about the charging port connection to the motherboard? The soldering there sometimes comes loose and you have to resolder it.

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