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Mechanical Dog Not Working

I have a battery operated (2 C cells) dog that will not work. it has a sliding switch and part of that switch is missing. Is there a way to repair or bypass the sliding switch.

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It's a YOUR LOVELY PET FROM JAMINA brand.

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Ramsey, since we don't know exactly what toy you have, we'd need more information in order to help. Please add pictures of your dog and some close-up photos of the switch itself. If you've opened it up, we'd like to see what the switch is mounted on; with that information we may be able to locate a suitable replacement switch. It's unlikely you'll be able to find just the part of the switch that's missing as most manufacturers don't provide parts for things like that.

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I moved your comment back into your question, as iFixit software doesn't allow pictures to appear in comments. Thanks for adding those!

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Just so we understand, the second photo is showing a card that mounts in the cover; I assume that round knob holds it in place. That card provides the contact to the batteries through the two contact points shown in picture 5.

I assume the part you're missing is a knob of some sort with a metal strip underneath that either makes or breaks contact between the two battery terminals on the top side of that card. The problem is finding or making something to replace that switch, right?

Is that a fair description?

Update (12/10/25)

I'm thinking if you can come up with a strip of metal slightly narrower than the width of the switch opening, it should be fairly straight-forward to bend it to fit and make a replacement part. If it's made of metal, it'll be conducting the electricity through it, but we're only talking 3 volts here, so it wouldn't worry me personally. I suppose you could put down a layer of electrical tape along the top side just to be safe though.

Forgive the crudeness of this drawing, but here's what I had in mind.

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The black rectangle is my approximation of the hole the switch protrudes through. The red is a side view of how you might bend a strip of metal. A slight bend up on the top end should let it slide on and off the contact pad fairly easily. The lower leg, of course, has to be long enough to make continuous contact with the lower pad whether the switch is in the on or off position. I'd make the width of the part that protrudes (the orange line segment) as long as possible to keep the strip aligned vertically; the wider it is, the more stable it'll be.

Update (12/10/25)

Just saw @oldturkey03's comment, and he may be on to something. I saw a toggle switch on Amazon that comes with 6" wires already attached, so you could just solder one wire to each pad and mount it over the switch opening. Here's what it looks like.

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Here's a link to the part.

Seco-Larm SS-076Q/SW ENFORCER SPST Toggle Switch, Attractive plastic case with 2 screw holes and pre-wired 6" (15cm) leads for easy surface mounting: Electronic Component Toggle Switches: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Might be something else to consider.

Update (12/11/25)

@ramsey74643 What the switch is doing is creating a closed circuit for electricity to flow. One battery is inserted with the positive end up and the other with the negative end up. Because there's no connection between the two (when the switch is in the OFF position), no current can flow. Sliding the switch to the ON position connects the two batteries together, completing the circuit and powering up the toy.

So the upper leg in my diagram has to be short enough that it doesn't touch the upper contact when the switch is OFF and the lower leg long enough to maintain contact with the lower battery contact when the switch is ON.

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Correct....that is a great desctiption.

@dadibrokeit possibly substituting the slide mechanism with a toggle switch?

How exactly would this slide switch work? In the ON position would it contact both batteries to complete a circuit, or only one battery? There are no wires going to or coming from the switch.

thank you ! works great !

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Definitely you can repair or bypass the sliding switch on your battery‑operated dog toy. I’ll explain three safe options, from easiest to most proper

Easiest Fix: Bypass the Switch (Always ON)

If you just want it to run when batteries are installed, you can bypass the switch.

YOU CAN FOLLOW THIS MY STEPS ON HOW TO BYPASS

STEP 1: Open the toy to access the wires going to the switch.

STEP 2: You will see two wires attached to the sliding switch.

STEP 3: Remove them from the switch (or leave them if the switch is broken).

STEP 4: Twist the two wires together tightly.

STEP 5: Wrap them with electrical tape.

I hope this completes the circuit and the toy will run continuously.

TAKENOTE:

The dog will be always ON when batteries are installed you will need to remove a battery to turn it off.

SECOND WAY TO REPLACE THE SWITCH ( MY SURE OPTION)

Sliding switches are cheap and easy to replace.

What you need to achieve this

Small soldering iron (or someone who has one)

Replacement SPST slide switch

Make sure you follow this step:

Firstly Remove the broken switch. Then solder each of the two wires to the new switch terminals. Then Mount the switch back in the toy.

This will restores proper ON/OFF function.

If you want, send me a photo of the broken switch so I can tell you exactly which type you need.

My last temporary repair (No Soldering)

If a small piece of the slider is missing and it still clicks inside, you can: Use a toothpick, tiny piece of plastic, or pen cap piece glued onto the switch to act as a new slider knob. Then use super glue sparingly , don’t glue the switch shut.

This works if the internal switch mechanism still works, and only the physical slider tab is missing.

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Not particularly helpful here; this looks AI generated to me and isn't applicable to the OP's problem.

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Ramsey 영원히 감사할 것입니다.
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