How To Repair A Wii Remote Charging Station With A Broken Capacitor

소개

In this guide we’re going to be fixing a classic 2011 Wii Remote Charger, also occasionally known as a Wii Dual Charging Station, specifically we’ll be addressing how to fix one with a broken capacitor. Within the guide is a step teaching how to tell if it’s the capacitor that is broken, testing and troubleshooting it to ensure this is the necessary fix. Due to the nature of the symptoms of a broken capacitor it’s difficult if not impossible to tell if this is the appropriate fix without completing this step. Please keep in mind that this guide does include soldering which can be dangerous for first-time users.

필요한 것

1 단계 Capacitor

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Flip over the Wii Remote Charger to the bottom and remove the skid pad.
The skid pad itself is a very simple pad attached to the bottom of the Wii Remote Charger with very weak adhesive. It can very simply be pulled off.
Keep in mind that thanks to it being simple adhesive, some Wii Remote Chargers already might be missing their skid pads. The one depicted in the pictures is a replacement, so other skid pads may look different, but can be just as easily removed.

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2 단계

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Remove the six 3mm screws on the bottom of the Wii Remote Charger with a Phillips #0 screwdriver.
Pull the bottom cover off to expose the internal components.

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3 단계

Remove the three 3mm screws on the PCB (printed circuit board) with a Phillips #0 screwdriver.
Be careful not to miss the third screw as it's partially hidden under the cables and harder to access.
Lift the motherboard out of the case.

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4 단계

To start with, find the capacitor on the top of the circuit board. Carefully flip it over and find where the capacitor attaches to the circuit board.
Not only is this where we'll be testing our capacitor, but it's also where we're going to be soldering.

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5 단계

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Now that we've located the capacitor on the circuit board, we'll be using two different tests on an ohmmeter to see if the capacitor works or not:
The first test isn't necessary, but can be used as a quick way to indicate function. If the capacitor works the meter will indicate full continuity by beeping. If it fails the test it won't beep, showing an open circuit and we need to move on to the next test. To start the test use any ohms meter and turn the dial to what's depicted in the picture.
The second test is a verification of the capacitor. The measures the capacitance of Farads. If the test is successful it'll indicate 1000 UF. A different number will indicate that the test is a failure and the capacitor needs to be replaced. To start the test use any ohmmeter and turn the dial to what's depicted in the picture.

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6 단계

We'll be using the soldering iron in the same locations as where the capacitance tested badly.
Use the soldering iron to remove the solder keeping the capacitor in place, being careful to ensure you're removing the solder under the capacitor.
Check out our How to Solder and Desolder Connections guide for help with soldering best practices.

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7 단계

Use a pair of needle nose pliers to very carefully and slowly remove the broken capacitor.
After the capacitor has been removed, replace with the new capacitor.

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