이 번역은 원본 안내서의 최신 업데이트를 반영하지 않을 수 있습니다. 번역 업데이트를 돕거나 아니면 원본 안내서 보기를 참조하세요.
소개
이 안내서를 참고하여 로직 보드를 교체하세요.
로직 보드를 분리할 경우 서멀 그리스 다시 발라야합니다.
Mac Pro에서 어떠한 작업이든 시작하기 전에: 전원 선을 뽑고, 전원 버튼을 10초 이상 눌러서 전원 공급 장치의 캐패시터를 방전시켜 주세요.
전원 공급 장치 뒷면에 노출된 납땜 연결부나 캐퍼시터 부분을 만지지 않도록 매우 조심하세요. 보드의 가장자리 만 다루세요.
필요한 것
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팬 어셈블리의 바깥 둘레에 있는 5.1mm T10 Torx 나사 다섯 개를 풀어주세요.
Fat Mango is correct. That said. If you do pull the fan assembly note that the screws are all held in with blue Permatex and breaking them free takes a fair amount of effort. Getting a good set of Torx screwdrivers is a must.
Jim WIlson - 답글
Hey guys, what would happen if you only replace one card.. I have a D300 but the plan is to upgrade to D500 or D600. So If I can afford and install one instead of the pair would it increase something? or will it cause any conflict? I guess I don’t understand if I the Mac Pro has 2 D300 graphic cards that means each has 1GB? Same as If I would Install 1 D600 that would increase 3GB only? Thanks.
D300 = 2GB each card. Very few apps uses two cards at the same time.
Gio Cas -
The (5) Screws are Apple part number 923-0713
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한 손으로 팬 어셈블리를 받치면서 팬 케이블 브래킷에서 T8 고정 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
On my machine, a TR7 worked to remove them due to the weird angle.
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상호 연결 보드를 방열판에 고정하는 6.0mm T8 Torx 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
Ended up being T9 screws for me.
T8 screws for me, i did and edit to this step
Ended up being T15 screws on my machine
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5.5mm T8 Torx 나사 두 개를 풀어주세요.
Step 22 when reassembling, it helps not to fully tighten until you put the screws in from step 20.
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CPU 방열판 브래킷에서 12.8mm T10 Torx 나사 네 개를 풀어주세요.
I cannot unscrew one of those because I appears that one of the elements in wich it is screwd underneath is loose and moving along with the screw, making this operation impossible. Anyone had this issue ?? Any solution ??
I had the same problem. These screws go into threaded inserts, which in turn are screwed into the heatsink. Both have threadlocker compound applied. So the threaded insert’s threadlocker gives up first, and the threaded insert unscrews from the heatsink. Remove all 4 screws, then with a pair of needle nose pliers, hemostat, or thin 7mm wrench, hold the insert steady and unscrew the screw from it.
Could I remove these screws and re-screw? I worry that remove them but I can’t re-use them?
timmy123 -
I had that problem, too, and I did it like Chuck Fry, with a thin wrench. Unfortunately one threaded insert was so tight that I slipped and a capacitor broke off. Can someone tell me what kind of capacitor I need? I can't find anything under the name listed above the capacitor. Thank you.
A way to avoid this situation is to ease the tension on the spring slowly and rotate the loosening of four screws a few turns at a time – when the tension is released equally the threaded inserts are more likely to stay in place.
I had 2 of those double sided screws stuck like that. I carefully removed them from the motherboard using a small vice grip to hold one side, and a torx on the other. Then reinstalled them using locktite compound. Make sure the heat sink is flush to the motherboard in the same way that you found it, or the assembly will not fit back in the case correctly, indicating the CPU may not be securely attached. The result may be that you think you killed your mac when you turn in on again and just hear the fan spinning like crazy but no chime or boot sequence. If that happens, go back in, reset the double sided screws, and make sure the heatsink is flush. Worked for me.
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CPU 방열판 브래킷에서 내부 12.8mm T10 Torx 나사 네 개를 풀어주세요.
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CPU 방열판 브래킷을 분리하세요.
On my Mac Pro (assembled mid-2017) these screws are covered with a black sticker presumably to indicate tampering. If you did not know they were screws it would not be obvious. You have to just put the T10 driver right in the center and start turning; it quickly breaks through the sticker.
Oh man. Thanks so much for that comment! I would have tried to use pliers!
Also remember to support the CPU (On the other side) while removing these screws. Mine CPU fell out from the other side while loosening.
On my MacPro there are no screws here. On the backside the place where the back of the screws should be are covered with stickers, but removing the stickers simply reveals a rivet. There’s no screw and seemingly no way to remove the CPU.
Wow, glad I clicked comments. I had no clue about the sticker. I was about to use some kind of something to get them out 😂
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CPU와 브래킷에서 로직보드를 들어올려 분리하세요.
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재조립할 떄, CPU에 묻어있는 서멀 그리스를 깨끗히 닦고 다시 발라야 합니다.
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우리는 서멀 컴파운드를 쉽게 다시 바를수 있는 서멀 그리스 안내서를 가지고 있습니다.
There is one import piece of information when replacing or upgrading these processors. There are two possible orientations and only one is correct (correct me if I’m wrong!). There’s a small arrow on one corner of the processor that needs to be aligned to the correct side. Just match the orientation of the original processor - this can be difficult or easy to overlook since the tiny alignment arrow is usually covered with thermal paste. Clean the Thermal paste off the old processor before you remove it to see the correct alignment.
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기기를 재조립하려면, 이 지침들을 역순으로 수행하세요.
기기를 재조립하려면, 이 지침들을 역순으로 수행하세요.
다른 11명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
90%
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댓글 한 개
The RAM/CPU board is only attached to the thermal core around the processor area. This means seating RAM modules can flex the board (which has no support under the RAM sockets) so take extra care seating RAM modules.
