MacBook Core 2 Duo Logic Board Replacement

I used this guide plus the Thermal Paste guide to resolve my MacBook RRS (Random Restart Syndrome) issue. My MacBook would randomly restart after the fan kicked into high speed. When I removed the heatsink I discovered an an irregular patch completely free of thermal compound of about 15-20% of the area on one of the processors. I removed and re-applied the thermal paste. I ran a memory test utility overnight that previously caused a restart after a couple of hours, and the probelm seems to be solved. TIme will tell.

This guide was seriously helpful, so thanks for putting this together. I found a thick ribbon of dust/muck whatever between the fan outlet and the exhaust port that was almost as dense as felt. My fan must have been fighting like crazy trying to pass air through that blockage, which explains the high temps and excessive fan noise. Wish I'd done this sooner...

Thanks again!

Just R&R'ed the fan in my black MacBook Core 2 Duo tonight. Took me 30 minutes tops and I was taking my time. These instructions are SPOT ON! Great job ifixit.com! Two thumbs up!

Follow the instructions exactly as you see and have a piece of paper taped to the table next to you that you can outline all the screws you took out so you know where they go back in. I expected this to be a LOT harder, but it was one of the simplest repairs I've ever done to ANY computer!

Piece of cake--or should I say gum. If you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, load up a stick of gum and chomp on it until it's needed then use a bit to retain screw on the driver. And if you should tear the black tape, or if the silver tape won't stick any more, just bubblegum it together. The instructions were clear and correct, which made for a very simple repair.

My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?

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My battery does not pop out when after step 1. Any idea why, and how do fix it?

Will not drop out even if you turn it upside down?

Somehow, now my isight camera doesn't work and the light is always on. Cannot figure out what I did wrong.

Outstanding guide - thank you!

My computer will not charge when plugged in. It will stay on as ling as the plug is in the wall however if the power source gets disconnected it will shut down immediately. I removed the battery and put it back in that did not help. It worked and charged fine 2 days ago. I have a backpack with a laptop storage area. I went to hang the backpack up and it fell and ever since the battery is not functioning. Is there some fix I can try or is my only solution to replace it? I would have thought that dropping it would affect more than the battery?

Better leave the back pack where it cannot fall. Hindsight is so much better than foresight . I learned the hard way too!

Many of the tiny screws in this project were quite sticky. I found some blue Loctite residue that must have been when the Apple repair shop worked on the laptop years ago. I have found that it is important to hold the correct driver firmly down in the screw and then just tweak the driver in short bursts to loosen it before unscrewing it with a smooth turn.

Be really careful while doing this to not use too much force while doing this step, because the plastic disc can break off and it can be a cosmetic issue along with functionality issue. This happened to me first hand so please take my word for it…

Probably worth mentioning at this stage that the caddy you propose to use should not have lugs on the front corners, like those used in unibody 1278 and onwards.

I just replaced the battery as indicated (with a iFixit part), but the computer says there is no battery connected, even after letting the power plug in for more than one hour.

I think I found the way to have the new battery to charge!!!!!

See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRYIMDQx....

Essentially, you have to follow a very precise order: 1/shut down the computer, 2/take off the magsafe connector, 3/remove the old battery, 4/put back the magsafe connector, 5/put the new battery, 6/power on, each time leaving a few seconds in between.

please pay attention that screws are native to metal pieces otherwise you are going to be a stupid like me trying to unscrew unsuccessfully until I reread the guide

Lay the screws out in a ”timeline” like a circle, Then when you reassemble just start from the end of the “timeline”

The screws have to unscrewing positions, first they unscrew from the whole body BUT if you move the lid without entirely removing the screws, they will remain attached to the lid. This I find much more recomendable!

I found when putting this back in that I had to use a spudger to work the mesh/foam into the slot where the memory cards are so the bracket would lay flat again when screwed back in.

What size screwdriver

That looks so easy!

I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.

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I couldn't get the top two 11mm screws to come out, even with a magnetized driver. When I tried to keep unscrewing them, they clicked like they were spring mounted, and I didn't have any trouble leaving them in and continuing on.

I use a strong magnet to pull the screws out of their socket.

The top two screws didn't seem to want to come out, and I saw no reason they had to, so I left them there, put a little piece of tape over each so they wouldn't fall out.

You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later since it won't quite reach the bottom.

for me this was the hardest part especially the two 14.5mm that dint want to come out. keep turning the screw and slightly pressing the case down, once the screw is a little use try using finger, screw and a non metallic point to try to push them out. they arent tight but they are very hard to unscrew i almost gave up, but believe me they come out with patience

I also did not find that I needed to remove the two 14.5 mm screws. I unscrewed them but they seemed designed to stay with the case and I found it did not seem to affect anything to just let them stay there.

On this step, I encountered a problem. The middle screw was screwed in very very tightly. As a result, I ended up stripping the screw despite being very careful. I tried to use a wire cutter to remove the screw, but that did not work. I actually ended up using the wirecutter to cut the bracket off, leaving the screw screwed in. This did not affect anything. I am typing off of my replace macbook top case right now.

The point is, BE CAREFUL! but if something does go wrong, don't fret. There are solutions.

On a Macbook I just tore down, I found that in this step, the 4mm screw was on the left, not the right. I thought maybe someone else had it apart before and accidentally switched them so in staying true to these instructions I tried to reassemble with the 4mm screw on the right. I found it would not go all the way in. I ended up putting it back together with the 2-3mm screws on the right and the 1-4mm screw on the left.

You need to replace the shorter middle screw first, otherwise it won't tighten later.

I couldn't pull over the two 3 mm Phillips on the step 6, how could you've done it?

To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.

please note the position of the screws because when you are reinstalling them you might get confuse. this ones go below or under (sorry English inst my first language). There are two screw holes this steps are for the ones below.

Quote from BeatJunkie:

To confirm what HandyMac and colmcostelloe found, some MacBooks have one 3mm and two 4mm screws in the rear wall of the battery compartment. On the one I worked on, the shorter 3mm screw came from the middle hole.

Thanks Beat Junkie, this was the situation with my Mac 2.13ghz Mid 2009 that I was putting back together. Thanks for the confirmation! (For the 6th step)

For me (A1181), there were two shorter screws and one longer. The longer went on the left (a shorter screw wouldn't catch). (Not the middle that is currently in the instruction. But that could be model difference.) The middle screw started to strip the head but using a slightly larger phillips allowed me to get it out.

I have two MacBooks, one white and one black and both had two 3mm screws and one 4mm screw, opposite of what was in the main document

In my late 2006 macbook the central screw was longer than the side screws..

Stripped a head on my left screw (A1181 model, Core 2 Duo 2.0 GHz). Used a precision 1.5 slotted screwdriver to get enough bite to screw it out and back in.

I couldn't get the suggested Phillips #0 tip to grab. PH#00 worked, but I found the PH#000 to work the best.

I found this step to be the hardest to put back because of the angle - even with iFixIt's driver Flex Extension.

The steps do not tell you what length screw that is needed to be here. What I can tell you that is the screw needs to be 5mm or 6mm, NOT 7.5 or 8mm or 9mm.

Screwdriver PH0

It's recommended to use a PH00 screwdriver instead of the PH000.

The PH000 is too small and you can damage the screwheads.

I used PH0 for this

Outer screws (red) are shorter (7mm long), while inner screws (orange) are 11mm.

I found these screws quite loose; upon reassembly, I wanted to torque them but found the case would distort towards the center, so I had to leave them fairly loose

When reassembling, do not fully tighten the two 11 mm (orange) screws. When the plastic starts to flex, back it off until the strain on the plastic housing is released and leave it at that. The two 7.25 mm (red) can be snug.

Thank you ifixit, it was huge help for me, I did it and everything just works great.....THANK YOU!

As is reported above, there a 4 friction tabs that connect to the keyboard. If they do not stay in place and stick to the keyboard, the keyboard will not go back on. Just remove them and put them in the clips, with the solid clip wall to the outside of the unit, and put the keyboard back on. Do this before reconnecting the keyboard.

I had no problem at all in this step, the left side was already unlocked when I open the MacBook, the right side was a little tricky but i was able to pull it out in less than a minute

Because this step requires some force, make sure to double check that you got all your screws out. I finally got my gumption up to apply the necessary force required to pull up the upper case, and after 5 minutes of pulling, I look and see that the reason it wasn't coming up because I missed one screw. Ugh.

Also, before you just shove your hands under the upper case, prying about, think twice: I cut my finger pretty bad on a sharp piece of metal.

When reassembling, take some care to align the tabs on the right hand side next to the optical drive. Rock and slide these tabs into position. Then work from right to left, as the rest of the case is quite easy to put back together.

I took my mac apart yesterday to clean out the trackpad properly and after getting some 'help' from my grandfather (he lost 2 screws and snapped off a bit of the uppercase but i didn't have the heart to ask him to leave it alone) i tried putting the uppercase back on. it fits perfectly but the middle section closest to the screen appears slightly raised and when i go to screw in the four screws on the exterior of the laptop i can't because the hole is not at all aligned (and two of those four screws are very long). anyone know why this might be? can it be fixed/is it a common problem?

The plastic around the edge is very thin and cracks easily, so be gentle while using the opening tool.

On the right side above the optical drive there are little plastic braces that latch the upper case to the main body. This is the reason why the upper case might stick here. If the above step is not working, also try to gently push the upper case sideways away from the optical drive after freeing all other sides. When reassembling make sure the braces are in their slots of the main body and not attached to the upper case. If you cannot fit the upper case evenly over the optical drive, that's probably why. In this case carefully remove them and slide them back into their slots before lowering the upper case.

this guide was awesome. this step was easy for the broken macbook i salvaged and noticed because i got a factory replacement keyboard quite recently on my macbook in use, the 4 clips above the optical drive were TIGHT - it took quite a bit of pulling up before it came loose!

When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your macbook!

The entire connector broke off the logic board when I was disconnecting the keyboard just now. Be extremely careful!

I tried to remove the blacktab from the logic board, however, the black tab tore apart. The logic board is okay but the keyboard connector is torn. It has some silver wires passing through a whit plastic housing. It is the first generation of MacBook Core Duo. Do you think it can be repaired?

I could not get the keyboard off my the body... (black macbook I don't know if that makes any difference). It was stuck bottom left hand corner, so I had to bend whatever was stuck to get access to the logicboard etc... any reason why this is the case??

not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?

Great repair guide! Changing the top case was pretty easy and it saved me a lot of money.

it was really easy, i had no experience whatsoever installing or unistalling mac parts (or pc either). it just took me less than 25 minutes, and i just finish and Im typing from my new upper case keyboard.

After a sucessful install of the keyboard, the select (mouse buttun equivalent) was found to not operate consistently. I called support and they are shipping a new one out to me. THIS is why I buy from ifixit - sure I can get a part for less elsewhere - but I would not get the service I get with ifixit - THANKS guys!!!

Note - I agree, this was VERY easy - great pictures, perfect explanations...

Quote from carlos:

not sure if this is the place to ask but my mac. doesn't start properly now it turns on and the little light on the right side turns on but keyboard leds don't and display doesn't either any ideas please?

Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.

Quote from E Chambliss:

Did you ever find an answer for this question? My computer is doing the same thing. Thanks.

no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents

Quote from carlos:

no i never did couldn't get help it blows to hear someone else had the same problem...im using a windows(yuk) but im getting a new mac next paycheck. if you figure it out let me know so i can fix my other one and maybe give it to my parents

Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?

Francisco로 부터 인용:

Hello, I'm following this procedure because my MacBook isn't turning on due to a failure in the MagSafe DC In board, it was not charging the battery and therefore no power going in. The case was broken duirng warranty and also the MagSafe power adapter was replaced. Now it is failing again. This is an old late 2006 MacBook. Does your Mac powers on, do you hear the chime sound? or you are stuck with a hardware failure?

my MacBook charges the battery and powers on i dont hear a chime and it turns on but never starts

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When changing the topcase remember to change the sticker with the serial also! This might be important when further service or bigger repairs by apples service are needed. The serial also helps you with identifying your MacBook!

How do you do it? I can't get it out

Superb guide thank you guys

This takes some nerves if there is no tab, but be confident and just prise the connector straight up.

Be very careful while you pulling the black tab! It's better to use spudger to pry the connector from it's housing while you gently pulling the black tab.

Clips removal: its hard with finger to pull. It's better and easy off with a pry tool (I used a flat twiser) to pry from the bottom gently for each clips. It was so smooth and easy.

After I clean everything nice… put the cable back and DO NOT TURN ON. What the !&&* happens!? Ideias my friends? :(

Sorry my bad english!

On the 2.13ghz MacBooks, there is a 3mm screw holding down the Magsafe connector, when putting it back together make sure this is secured after connecting the magsafe connector to the board, otherwise you'll have a wobbly Magsafe connector.

The Mag Safe connector was not budging so finally I used a 1/8 inch flat screwdriver and twisted it against the ridge on the connector alternating sides. That loosen it to allow me to pull it out to the right.

The screw at the lower end of the I/O frame may be longer than the one at the top. Use the longer screw at the bottom (with the black plastic spacer).

Effectivly, the 7.5 mm is near the speaker and the two 9.5mm next.

On my late 2007 A1181 2.2 G Santa Rosa machine all three screws are 7.5 mm PH00. There is no black plastic spacer as mentioned in the first comment.

On my early 2009 Macbook white A1185, all three screws in this step are of same length…

My late 2007 A1181 2.2 ghz Santa Rosa machine has only one heat sensor as shown in step 21 and the rubber spacer was attached on top of that connector closer to the fan.

I have come across different types of temperature sensor connectors! Please help!!

onechrisjones로 부터 인용:

I have come across different types of temperature sensor connectors! Please help!!

help i was trying to desconect the heat sensor and i accidently pull the whole thing off. Can i solder it back or would i need a whole new logic board? Someone please help me with this! thanks

How do the fan connectors on Step 21 work? It appears that the connector has to come up away from the board but the base of the connector isn't attached well to the board so it is very easy to destroy this connector. I've found its not required to disconnect the fans if all you are doing is removing the system board.

To disconnect the temp sensors, apply a small amount of pressure between the board and the wires being very careful not to apply pressure under the plastic housing that is mounted to the board.

I'm removing the logic board from a MacBook (13-inch, mid-2009) i.e. Penryn, and at this step there does not seem to be a temperature sensor at all as the photo on this page show for Alternate Layout: Santa Rosa and Penryn. The connector is there on the logic board but there is no cable and not sensor to speak of between the heat sink and the fan, as in other models.

The illustration shows what is referred to as a 3 wall logic board model 820-1889-A with flat temperature connectors. Be aware that there are 4 wall square block connectors on other models and the two types are not interchangeable even though they both come from model 1181A's. This model (shown) accepts 3 boards. A 1.86 GHZ , a 2.0 GHZ , and a 2.16 GHZ one. The early 2006 model can be different from the late 2006 , early 2007 model so check your board part number and actual image of your replacement if you don't have the serial number.

I am confirming from experience and also a discussion in the ifixit answers section (MacBook 5.1 temperature sensor missing?) that not all (few in my experience) 2009 macbook 5.2s have anything connected to the TEMP J5550 connector at the seven oclock position in relation to the fan. It is simply empty.

In case anyone is wondering, you pull the cable straight up, GENTLY! :-)

Even with a spudger I had a hard time getting this little connector loose. I ended up popping the red wire out of the connector. I hope I can repair it

Update. after accidentally pulling the red wire out of the left speaker connector I repaired it by reinserting it into the connector and repairing the back of the connector with a very tiny amount of JB Weld adhesive.

I can't seem to pull this I have the tab on a grip but I pull up and nothing tried the spudger and still attached. help I don't want to break anything

I am having trouble lifting this cable. I pulled in the black tab but nothing tried the spudger and still help me because I don't want to break anything thanks!

This was a tough one. I was able to catch the edge on the side nearest the RAM with a pointed spudger, popping that side up.

The picture shows prying from the end, which is OK to loosen it, but the connector pulls straight up.

which mm is the screws?

greets

On this step beware of the way the three antena cables are when you remove the board. I had a minor problem after having reinstalled my new logic board : the black cable was too short to be pluged back. I assumed that the original order had to be respected but that the antena could work with only two cables out of three. It worked properly.

If you find yourself having to bend the logic board to get it out (or back in under the Airport antenna cables), consider loosening the left display hinge to allow more room. Loosen each of the 3 screws on the bracket where the antenna cables come out and you'll have a lot more play.

thanks axel..your instructions helped...