iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Bluetooth/Wi-Fi Antenna Replacement
Use this guide to replace a broken antenna.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.
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Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.
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Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.
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Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
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The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
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The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully flip up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets.
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Lift the LCD from its long edge farthest from the digitizer cable and gently flip it toward the rear case—like closing a book.
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While holding the LCD up, gently slide the front panel away from the iPad. Be careful not to snag the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD.
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Set the LCD back into the body for safekeeping.
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Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.
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Set the LCD face down on a clean surface. You may want to rest it on a soft cloth to prevent scratches.
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Use a plastic opening tool to lift the display data cable lock upwards.
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Pull the display data cable out of its socket.
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Move the dock connector/speaker cables out of the way and peel the Bluetooth/Wi-Fi antenna cable off the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
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To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to reattach the front panel.
To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to reattach the front panel.
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댓글 한 개
I’ve seen other guides that avoid having to remove the entire logic board by just popping the metal shield over the WiFi board on the bottom part of the logic board then popping out the WiFi board with the antenna cable attached. I assume there’s some good reason for not using this approach? Is there some risk of damaging the WiFi board? It’s just a press fit into the base of the logic board and there’s sufficient clearance to thread the antenna cable up from the bottom and out thru the space where the WiFi board goes. The metal shield can be pried off and pushed back on without damaging it, and the WiFi board can be eased up from it’s socket with the tip of an exacto knife blade. Removing the entire logic requires that it be re-seated so the metal contacts at each end mate and requires an adhesive to hold it in place. What’s wrong with this alternative?
