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소개
Use this guide to replace the logic board.
필요한 것
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.
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Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.
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Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.
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Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
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The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
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The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.
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Remove the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD to the aluminum frame.
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Flip up the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
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Using your fingers or a pair of tweezers, pull the LCD ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.
x2
My retainer flap broke before it would move, tried to tape the cable back in place, LCD is totally dead now (wasn't before) even though I heard sounds...
I ran into similar problem and was able to fix it.
I used a thin mylar piece, cut to the size of the ribbon cable and push it in, on top of the ribbon cable to thicken it.
Digitizer(Touch screen), Not responding after Tear down.
Instead of the mylar tape, I re-used the screen protector from an old Nintendo DS and cut it to size. I did not think it would work but it did for me after 4,5 tries. Good luck.
The pictures here are very misleading. The ZIF lock tab is towards the back of the connector - opposite to where the cable comes in. you flip it up and over. The picture here does NOT show the lock tab released! when replacing make sure the white lines go right into the connector - you should almost not see them anymore.
Mark Smith - 답글
As Mark Smith noted the lock on the ZIF connector is at the BACK of the connector, the side FARTHEST from the cable. Put your spudger or opener at the back of the connector and gently pull up while pushing toward the connector. The black bar at the back of the connector will pop up and release pressure on the cable.
The ZIF connector lock is almost impossible to see in the pictures, and even tough to see when you're looking at it. It is a really thin black bar with a hinge on the long edge. As Mark Smith and Awfki stated, pull up gently on the long edge that is opposite the ribbon cable. When inserting the new ribbon cable be sure to get the cable lined up, then push in straight and evenly.
It IS possible to replace these connectors through a combination of hot air, microsoldering, experience, and talent (full disclosure:I sell replacements on eBay) but quite frankly, it’s a…it’s very difficult. Hiring a technician experienced enough to do it confidently and well will (should) cost you almost as much as the device is worth.
So try the methods (like tape) that thicken the cable slightly at the point of insertion, so its contacts will make strong downward contact with the connector’s. Then tape the cable down well to keep it from pulling out.
These solutions rely on recognizing the latch and breaking only it, so the above comments noting the latch’s location are essential.
FWIW, the second picture does show the connector’s latch in the “open” position. If what you see at the edge of the connector farthest from where the cable inserts is black, (first picture), the latch is still closed. If instead you can begin to see the metal pins (second picture), it is open. When open it is not even straight up—it is at perhaps 75 degrees from the closed position. Don’t open it too far or with too much force, or the latch will break off.
The same happened to me. While unplugging the cable I have broken the lock. I realized it only when putting everything back in place. After several attempts I noticed that if I pressed with a finger where the lock was the LCD worked.
So, I inserted the cable and taped it so that it doesn’t slip out. In the iOpener kit you get some transparent plastic cards (not sure what are they meant for). I cut 2 small pieces the size of the connection and taped them down firmly.
put everything back in and it worked.
The lock is there just to make pressure on the connection.
Have a look at the iPad 3 WIFI Battery Replacement Video Overview before you try this step. Actually seeing how to flip up the lock before attempting it myself was very helpful.
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Using the tip of a spudger, peel back the piece of tape that secures the touchscreen ribbon cable to the logic board.
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Using your fingers, pull the touchscreen ribbon cable out of its recess in the aluminum frame.
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Remove the front panel from the iPad.
Cheers for the guide.
After replacing components, when reassembling dose the glue need some heating to bond properly or will a firm squeeze do the trick? Noticed none of the guides have any reassembly tips.
I had to open mine up again as I had left a protective film on the inside of the new digitiser panel.
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Peel back and remove the piece of electrical tape covering the headphone jack assembly cable connector.
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Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors securing the headphone jack cable to the logic board.
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Peel back and remove the piece of tape covering the SIM board cable ZIF connector.
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Flip up the retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector.
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Using the tip of a spudger, pull the SIM board cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Disconnect the following connectors from their respective sockets on the logic board:
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Wi-Fi antenna cable
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Speaker connector cable.
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Dock connector cable.
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Remove the following seven screws securing the logic board to the rear aluminum panel.
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Six 2.1mm Phillips #00
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One 2.5mm Phillips #00
Be sure you follow step 37 and free the headphone jack ribbon cable. I missed that step and found myself puzzling how to get the rightmost screw on the logicboard.
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Flip the logic board over, minding any cables that may get caught.
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Using the tip of a spudger, remove the three antenna connectors from their sockets on the logic board.
Follow these steps for both a speaker replacement, and then a touch screen replacement later on. However when I had to replace the battery, the cable between the main part of the logic board, and the LTE cellular component got ripped. Now the ipad will only stay booted for 1m30s before it reboots itself in a continuous loop. Has anyone seen this problem before?
I followed all the steps and I was able to replace a battery and a the screen on my daughter ipad3 but when plugged back in, the ipad goes in a resetting loop. turns on for 7-8 sec turns off for 7-8 sec. I tryed to do a hard reset but the ipad will not stay on to be able to move it fro the wall to the computer.
I did not shattered or destroyed any cable (as far as I know) and I opened and checked the connections 3 times now and nothing changed. The old battery got destryed in the process so I cant try it on to see id the same things happening. Please somebody help me!
This same thing happened to me. I ended up holding the power button and home button down until the iPad rebooted. When it powered back up, it was working correctly.
If new battery was criticality low in charge, it will boot loop. Put iPad in freezer for 30m and immediately plug to charger when you remove it. Reason: too low % on battery after repairs won't allow to boot so loop occurs and you can't charge a device in a boot loop. Freezer forces an emergency shutdown and will stay off till temperature is normal by then you should have enough charge to boot. Hopefully this helps!
The 3 wire connections to the underside of the system board are identical, so you might want to color code them before removal ... get them back in the right place, I think they are for the left and right GSM antennas and maybe the front camera?
Dear Peter, does it really matter which socket the 3 wire connections were connected to? I did not mark/color them with any sign!
Well…. i am at this stage now, i have lifted the 3 x wire connectors…and have not colored them… I am noticing that the cables leading to the connectors are of different lenghts : the shortest can obviously only fit on the connector which is the closest to the edge of the small board… and the longest should be for the connector which is the furthest away from the edge….
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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댓글 2개
Where can I purchase a logic board for an ipad 3 4g?
