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This week, Apple refreshed their lineup of peripheral input devices, so we're summoning all the teardown strength we can muster. Thus far, we've cracked open the second generation Magic Trackpad and the first ever Magic Keyboard, and now we're turning our attention to the Magic Mouse 2. Will this new design stand the test of time? Join us as we find out!

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해당 분해도는 수리 안내서가 아닙니다. Magic Mouse 2 수리는 저희 서비스 설명서를 사용하십시오.

  1. This mouse promises to be the most functional yet. Let's see how the specs stack up: Multi-touch gesture control
    • This mouse promises to be the most functional yet. Let's see how the specs stack up:

    • Multi-touch gesture control

    • Bluetooth wireless connectivity

    • Lightning port (for charging and pairing)

    • Internal lithium-ion battery

  2. We find a new model number  tucked in among the FCC markings and Lightning port: A1657. We're pretty excited to see Apple's first rechargeable mouse—but we have to say, that's a funny place for a Lightning port.
    • We find a new model number tucked in among the FCC markings and Lightning port: A1657.

    • We're pretty excited to see Apple's first rechargeable mouse—but we have to say, that's a funny place for a Lightning port.

    • The Magic Mouse 2 is temporarily useless when wired—unless you plan to use your forehead as a mousepad.

    Apple’s opt-criticized decision to put the lightning port on the bottom makes a lot of sense to me— the clear message here is that when you see “mouse battery low” warnings, plug your mouse in to charge the next time you walk away from your computer— over lunch, or at the end of the day. Since it’s a 2-month-lasting battery and Apple’s low battery predictions are often accurate and give you plenty of time, you really have 2-3 days before it’s dead, so even the most forgetful of users will have multiple chances to plug the thing in overnight.

    But this really seems like an intentional design choice to prevent users from using the mouse with a cable plugged-in permanently. Corded mice almost always have the cable built-in rather than having a female plug for good reason— moving a mouse around can and will put a lot of strain on a plug. So Apple made the decision that rather than warning users not to use the mouse while plugged in for extended periods of time, to make it impossible to use while charging.

    Slipp D - 답글

    A few (too many) have griped about the horrible seething pain of not having the freedom to ignore low battery warnings repeatedly and then once it’s dead, use it as a corded mouse for a while. Apple decided that if you choose to ignore all the warnings, you can later let your mouse charge for 2 1/2 hours without using it… but in reality, if you just need a charge to last until the end of the day, a 15-30 minute charge will do the job, and you can charge it the rest of the way over night.

    There have been so many gripes about this from the Apple community, it feels like the Apple-hating 1990s all over again. Here’s the deal— the product works well and gives plenty of leeway. It doesn’t work like your favorite rock-bottom-priced PC accessory, but it also doesn’t instant-die without warning, nor does the internal connector break after a year like that PC accessory. Both build quality and design (in terms of user experience) are responsible for a mouse that’ll last a decade or more.

    Slipp D - 답글

  3. At first glance, the new Magic Mouse (left) looks just like its older sibling. Mouse twins! However, with the two mice on their backs, the differences are more readily apparent. Naturally, the rechargeable Magic Mouse 2 has forgone the battery door and traded a battery latch for its new Lightning port.
    • At first glance, the new Magic Mouse (left) looks just like its older sibling. Mouse twins!

    • However, with the two mice on their backs, the differences are more readily apparent.

    • Naturally, the rechargeable Magic Mouse 2 has forgone the battery door and traded a battery latch for its new Lightning port.

    • Apple also changed the color of the printing, and removed the status LED, maybe to match the rest of the peripherals.

    • This isn't our first time around a Magic Mouse, so we know we'll have to take our iOpener for a spin.

    • In the previous model, strong adhesive secured the aluminum belly to the mouse. We don't expect this model will be any different in that regard.

    • If the other "Magic" peripherals have taught us anything, it's that Apple loves their adhesives.

    Hello!

    What sort of heating manner would you suggest?

    Emile - 답글

    esos adhesivos donde los venderan???

    danny garrido - 답글

  4. Apple has mentioned that their mouse has an "optimized foot design." We thought we'd peel off those feet on the off-chance that the new model hides screws underneath. We can dream, can't we? After lots of heat and half a dozen prying tools wedged under the casing, the mouse is partially released from the gluey mess beneath.
    • Apple has mentioned that their mouse has an "optimized foot design." We thought we'd peel off those feet on the off-chance that the new model hides screws underneath.

    • We can dream, can't we?

    • After lots of heat and half a dozen prying tools wedged under the casing, the mouse is partially released from the gluey mess beneath.

    • Aeons later, we finally separate the lower casing from the mouse and get our first view of its (still sticky) midframe.

    is the lower casing material now real aluminium or just aluminium looking plastic as it was before?

    mw - 답글

    It was NEVER silver painted plastic. Maybe you should have a closer look - VERY thin, hardened aluminium can appear _like_ plastic, but be assured - it's REAL aluminium. This isn't HP here.

    Matt Foot -

    well, having a closer look at my magic mouse 1, all i see is where the shinier silver-colored outer metallic coating has worn away in a splotchy and spotty manner from where my fingers gripped it on both sides; gross. what's underneath looks and feels very much like gray plastic.

    so, is the new 2 a single piece of solid aluminum? really want to know, especially for that price. $80 for a mouse that will need a new battery in 2-3 years AND has it's outer coating disintegrate to human touch is not a good deal.

    PS -

    tuck it guy if u dnt

    do it why, heavens open all day. not headed there why ask

    Mizzie Salazar -

    I’m a little perplexed by this as I have both iterations in front of me. While I only needed my thumbnails to separate the case on both, my Magic Mouse 1 is, without doubt, Aluminum. The Magic Mouse 2 base is just regular silver coloured plastic.

    Stephen Treloar - 답글

    Mit dem Wissen, wie und wo die vier Haken sitzen, ist das Öffnen der Maus auch ohne das mühsame Entfernen des Klebers ganz einfach: In den Ecken nacheinander mit einem Spatel unter die Kante des Oberteils fassen, mit dem Spatel das Oberteil seitlich verschieben, so dass der Haken herausspringt. Damit ist das Öffnen eine Sekundensache.

    Matt Schulz - 답글

  5. Popping four plastic clips open lets us into the battery chamber. It turns out these clips are actually part of the rocking/clicking mechanism for the single top shell/button.
    • Popping four plastic clips open lets us into the battery chamber.

    • It turns out these clips are actually part of the rocking/clicking mechanism for the single top shell/button.

    • Also check that clear acrylic. It's only painted on the underside, leaving the top and sides clear—so fetch!

    • With the upper casing lifted up, we get a clear view of what makes this mouse so sense-ational—that capacitative array.

    • The capacitative array makes this mouse a bit of a trackpad hybrid, allowing it to detect touch on its surface, registering gestures made without even moving the mouse.

  6. Finally something we understand! Screws! Unfortunately, they're holding down a bracket over a ribbon cable which prevents us from separating the mouse bits just yet—but hey, that ribbon cable seatbelt will make the mouse better withstand drops. Finally separated from the base of the mouse, the upper casing provides a clearer view of its capacitative touch-sensing array. A little spring provides some resistance and distributes force when the mouse is clicked, making it seem like the small button on the right occupies the whole width of the mouse. Cooool!
    • Finally something we understand! Screws! Unfortunately, they're holding down a bracket over a ribbon cable which prevents us from separating the mouse bits just yet—but hey, that ribbon cable seatbelt will make the mouse better withstand drops.

    • Finally separated from the base of the mouse, the upper casing provides a clearer view of its capacitative touch-sensing array.

    • A little spring provides some resistance and distributes force when the mouse is clicked, making it seem like the small button on the right occupies the whole width of the mouse. Cooool!

  7. This lil' logic board looks ripe for the picking! Broadcom BCM20733 Enhanced Data Rate Bluetooth 3.0 Single-Chip Solution Unknown 303S0499—probably a proprietary Apple touch controller
    • This lil' logic board looks ripe for the picking!

    • Broadcom BCM20733 Enhanced Data Rate Bluetooth 3.0 Single-Chip Solution

    • Unknown 303S0499—probably a proprietary Apple touch controller

    • NXP 1608A1 Charging IC

    • Texas Instruments 56AYZ21

    • ST Microelectronics STM32F103VB 72 MHz 32-bit RISC ARM Cortex-M3

  8. Hiding beneath the logic board, we find a teensy switch that makes the mouse click its click (no Taptic Engine just yet). Luckily, it's held in only by the board above, and is a welcome relief after wading through the rest of this tar pit. As a common failure part for computer mice, it's nice that Apple used a fairly standard and easily-sourced switch—although its replacement will require dealing with all of that glue (and soldering in the replacement switch).
    • Hiding beneath the logic board, we find a teensy switch that makes the mouse click its click (no Taptic Engine just yet).

    • Luckily, it's held in only by the board above, and is a welcome relief after wading through the rest of this tar pit.

    • As a common failure part for computer mice, it's nice that Apple used a fairly standard and easily-sourced switch—although its replacement will require dealing with all of that glue (and soldering in the replacement switch).

  9. We turn our attention to the battery, which sits snug as a bug in its little plastic box, making it annoying to extract. As it turns out, that's not the only thing holding it down—there's a mess of glue to contend with as well. Removing the battery is even less fun than we feared. The Magic Mouse 2's battery shares a common feature with the Apple TV Remote—the Lightning connector is soldered to the battery cable. Boo.
    • We turn our attention to the battery, which sits snug as a bug in its little plastic box, making it annoying to extract.

    • As it turns out, that's not the only thing holding it down—there's a mess of glue to contend with as well. Removing the battery is even less fun than we feared.

    • The Magic Mouse 2's battery shares a common feature with the Apple TV Remote—the Lightning connector is soldered to the battery cable. Boo.

    • This small accessory doesn't pack light—that 3.67 V, 7.28 Wh, 1986 mAh li-ion cell holds about 9% more juice than the one in the iPhone 6s!

  10. The Magic Mouse 2 Repairability Score: 2 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair) The Lightning port and battery can be replaced (as a single component), independent of the logic board—if you can get the device open.
    • The Magic Mouse 2 Repairability Score: 2 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair)

    • The Lightning port and battery can be replaced (as a single component), independent of the logic board—if you can get the device open.

    • Replacing a malfunctioning switch requires prying through intense adhesive and soldering.

    • Excessive use of strong adhesive makes it very difficult to remove the rear panel, hindering access to every internal component.

    • Without a service manual, it is very difficult to open the mouse without damaging internal components such as the optical sensor and power switch.

Disposable mouse once the battery goes.

rgarjr - 답글

hmmm... what was wrong with just replacing batteries?

Now we have a device that has a limited life span of about 2-5 years due to the battery (which can develop faults)....

I dont like Apple purposely creating limit life span products, and using tones of glue to make them difficult to repair - this is not good and quite distrusting of Apple... Steve Jobs would hate all this glue -- what ever happened to good well-built great designed products???

pauldixon1986 - 답글

On keyboards, little. On mice, I get through a lot of batteries.

alex -

And there was plenty of glue around in Apple products where SJ was running the show.

98% of these mice will never need repairing outside warranty. That glue makes for a product that is less likely to go wrong.

Of course iFixit doesn't care [in a positive sense] about reliability. They want products that they can sell you a fix for.

alex -

On the contrary, it was after Steve Jobs return to Apple that they moved away from maintanable hardware to gluey messes. And honestly, there's nothing wrong with that. Apple banks on the fact that the vast majority of its customers will accept nigh non-existent repairability in exchange for sleek form factors, and they're absolutely right. That means that the few percent of computer users who value repairability and upgradeability can take their business elsewhere, and honestly, that sort of person wasn't in the market for an overpriced product that's more fashion accessory than it is a tool in the first place.

dbgrogg -

There was a flaw with their battery holder, I always had issues where the batteries wouldn’t make proper contact with the positive end of the AA cell, and disconnect, I fixed the problem with a blob of solder on the contact, but this was a temporary solution to a problem with the design.

Legend Cox -

Guys i have recently purchased this mouse and when i flip it to turn it on i can hear a rattling noise from inside, on further shaking the mouse it feels as if something is loose inside the mouse near the lens hole.

Is that normal ?

mrigankh - 답글

seems some guy is also selling a charging dock for these now to combat the terrible charging deisgn http://www.ebay.com/itm/252379999994

alexjankuv - 답글

In step 8, photo 2 of the board top there's an unpopulated usb port footprint on the right edge of the board. Looks like they ran a revision with the usb port coming out the front.

Max McLaughlin - 답글

You know what? As a repair and service engineer of 25 years, I wouldn't let iFixit ANYWHERE NEAR my Magic Mouse if they think that spinning it around on its back is a good idea - that'll scratch the plastic top shell - WHY WOULD YOU DO THAT, YOU CRAZY PEOPLE? Talk about stupid - that video is just a staff member showing off, trying to make the video "interesting" - well don't - we are not fools.

Matt Foot - 답글

Matt you're impractically critical and it sounds like you're insecurely threatened by a company that teaches people how to fix their own stuff versus spending money on you, the bitchy "repair tradesman".

Mike Kormendy -

Your trumped up title does a good job at introducing the rest of you.

scottjoewilliams -

So disappointed that Apple has used Transistor radio technology from 50 years ago. One drop (on carpet) rendered mine useless. I think I'll get the battery cover style mouse to replace. Stupid.

rjgajsek - 답글

спасибо большое!!! ваш разбор очень помог мне! вернул к жизни это чудо техники)))

andrey - 답글

Guess I'll hold on to my first gen Magic keyboard and mouse rather than the inconvenience of recharging, waiting, and throwing out a less-than-friendly keyboard/mouse set. But i guess if it lasts 3-5 years that's all we can expect. I still prefer consumer-friendly devices though so I'll hold onto my first gen devices as long as I can.

Bob Foss - 답글

where can i find those spare black feet

Roshan Sahoo - 답글

The battery stopped holding a charge 13 1/2 months after we bought it…out of warranty for 1 1/2 months. Apple initially said tough luck! Took some more complaining to get it a replacement. How can Apple claim to be green when you can’t replace the battery?

carlchizewski - 답글

It’s really not the bad to get the battery out, but try to find a replacement not going to happen, So why even do it…

Work - 답글

Thank you for your information;

typically I thought that I could open the Magic Mouse without reading any instructions…boy was I wrong! Oh well, I actually prefer Logitech or other cheaper mouses than Apple’s offering anyhow. I’ve been a loyal Apple fan since Apple began. They may be the biggest brand but they got there by royally screwing those who got them there

Bob W.

rkirkwalker88 - 답글

Use first version of magic mouse. Use rechargeable batteries. Saves a lot of time. No gimmicks.

Ben Tupper - 답글

My father let it sit in a drawer for a year and I fear the Li battery has lost it’s ability to charge. Seems to be a common issue with electronics today. If you leave them discharged for long enough, they won’t charge again. And with these tightly integrated batteries, fixing it becomes a hard sell.

scottjoewilliams - 답글

Thanks for your great JOB, i’ve repaired my Magic Mouse 2

luismiquelcompany - 답글

You have got to be kidding me with a battery that lasted (3) months.

GUY INFIELD - 답글

The proprietary flat cable is soldered to the battery in a manner that no one should try to un-solder it. It’s fun to take apart, but unlikely that mortals could safely un-solder the cable from the battery. A wonderful example of an “unrepairable-by-design” item.

Chris Kimball - 답글

I was able to open the MM2 with a spudger - the plastic clips pictured in step 6 were the only thing holding the top on mine. From there I had access to the rest of the internal parts, making it easy to swap the clicker with a silent one. Worked well and was way easier than I thought… No mess with adhesive, not too much fuss with reseating the ribbon. Maybe I just got lucky?

Anthony Lopez - 답글

This. Actually the whole process of tearing apart the metal cover with heat is totally not needed. Both halves are kept together with just 4 clips.

karmansan -

Do you have any photos/videos showing how this can be done?

Chris -

no need to remove wear strips on bottom, just twist the top shell off with plastic spudger tool - you can use screw driver but take care not to damage the plastic edges and aluminium bottom half

owen1234321 - 답글

I have a Magic Mouse 2 and the onscreen pointer jumps all around the place.

I have looked and got all the cat hair and dust i could - yet it still jumps around.

Please advise:

Patrick DonEgan - 답글

There is no need to remove the glued bottom, the mouse pops open relatively easily…..four spots 1.5 inches from the front and back on both sides

petermandt6 - 답글

Hello! I have this problem. I click on magic mouse but the key don’t come back and so I can’t click again. Can I or someone repair it? Or do I have to buy another?

Paolo - 답글

Hey Paolo, if you pry off the white top using a thick guitar pick or spudger (just use force about 3 cm from the top and end of the device, inside the seams) you can bend up the spring a little bit. This may help. Alternatively, shake and tap the ouse on a table to see if anything falls out.

Laurens -

103/5000

Hi. Magic Mouse 2 fell to the ground, now it does not work. I need help, how can I repair it?

ondina - 답글

overpriced but SPLENDID!!! I LOVE APPLE!!!

Yannis - 답글

You don’t actually have to contend with any glue when disassembling this mouse. Nor do you need to solder anything. Replacing the battery/port combo could realistically take around 10 minutes for a semi skilled tech.

timfearsatan - 답글

Hi iFixit,

Thanks for all your hard work! I have used this to tackle replacing a battery. As you say, it’s NOT easy! I thought I’d let you know I have managed to do it. I found a battery for £21.50. I didn’t bother taking the feet off, I did heat the case with a hair dryer and was attempting to remove the base from the the internal structure, using a few ‘plectrum’ prying leavers … !! but somehow I managed to release a couple of the four clips, I went on to undo the others and it opened! The motherboard does need to come off to get the battery ribbon under it. Out of curiosity I wondered if I could do it again, and I did! There is a knack to it, but it does save the un-gluing! Why so much glue under the battery! it ain’t going anywhere with the tight fitting enclosure around it. I removed all the double sided tape off the new battery before installing it, in case I replace it again in the future. Thanks!! For the cost of the battery I now have a piece of Apple E waste that’s now worth £40-£50!

Best, Gavin

Gavin - 답글

mine went TU today, ordered a cheap replacement. we shall see who wins

richard - 답글

ain’t this a kick in the cargo pants. my (purchased in 2017) MM2 has sprung to life…dunno what was going on. i pried off the skids and tried lifting the bottom shell with my spongers…but set it side…put the skids back on and pushed it to the side. i had left the bluetooth system pane open, and i saw it listed, it was turned off, so i pushed the switch to on and it now recognised….huzzah for monkey prying!

richard - 답글

where can i buy parts?

Rain wav - 답글

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