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SAMSUNG Push Pull SHS-P718 do not open from inside (5-10% exits)

Certainly have enjoyed SHS-P718. I do though have an occasional (5-10% exits) issue arise where interior function not allowing one to exit home.

I couldn't determine if some sort of improper closure of door triggers the lock not to function on the next exit activity. When I get home it locks, but will not open from inside anymore.

Either way the solution requires keep trying or re-entering from outside generally with bio/keypad. There does not appear to be an interior override to lock from inside.

Also couldn't find any emergencial way to open from inside.

Batteries are new.

Obliviously, this represents a significant fire hazard that I must resolve.

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Mine is DP728. I had the bad experience on Sunday. Unable to unlock from inside...Support center closed on Sunday. Managed to find someone and guided me to get someone to open door from outside using my PIN. One neighbor came to my unit and helped. After few tries, door opened. Was told such issue occurred only when batteries run low. But I just changed the batteries lesser than 3 months. There was no warning or indicator that batteries were running low. Agree is a potential safety hazard. If there's fire, I wouldn't be able to escape if this happened.

Hi Carlos, I have the same problems. Do you resolve the problems?

Thanks.

My door very difficult the open from inside

Hi Fábio, no, couldn’t find a way to fix it. But I noticed that the way you pull the door to open really mathers, I must always open it from the upper part of the latch, and use a second hand to hold the device. If you use just one hand to open without enough strength on inicial pull, the lock system will go into a mid status where it doesn’t back to lock status and can’t go further to unlock status, this is not visible but obviously the door lock stops working... It’s really boring and non pratical, but I’m used now to use both hands to open it, and I don’t live in USA so Samsung support is really bad here.

Don’t ever buy the push-pull models from Samsung. It’s a total fire hazard. The electronics can get scrambled by many scenarios: door slams (physical trauma), temperature shock (kids outside trying to burn your lock), etc.

The next lock I buy, I have to make sure I have manual override (to open) from inside. It makes no sense at all why the push-pull models have manual (key) override from the outside but not from the inside.

I hope nobody dies from being locked in. Meantime, I’m open for a class action to demand that Samsung recalls all push-pull models sold.

I don't think there should be any worry about the electronics being "scrambled". Slamming the door isn't going to hurt it. When is the last time kids were burning your door/lock? There are many ways to vandalize a house. Breaking a window is easier. Plus I believe this lock detects high temp and unlocks in case of a fire (inside at least).

There is no key override on the inside because pulling the handle from the inside unlocks and opens the door. The mechanism for the inside is very simple (level turns a pin which turns a ring in the mortisse and opens the door). Even if they provided a key for the inside, it would just do exactly the same as pushing the lever.

Pushing from the inside always works for me. However, from the outside I must push quickly and forcefully. If I don't, the lock goes into the state described above where it doesn't open (though above they say it happened when using the inside lever). Pulling the lever, then pushing forcefully does unlock it, but it makes me a little nervous.

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Couldn’t find a way to fix it. But I noticed that the way you pull the door to open really mathers, I must always open it from the upper part of the latch, and use a second hand to hold the device. If you use just one hand to open without enough strength on inicial pull, the lock system will go into a mid status where it doesn’t back to lock status and can’t go further to unlock status, this is not visible but obviously the door lock stops working... It’s really boring and non pratical, but I’m used now to use both hands to open it.

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Im still having issues after trying this method. Any other suggestions?

Still happening eventually. But much less frequent if I open it using both hands.

Hi again, after 18 months of having this issue I would say it is finally solved. I used to have the mentioned issues once every couple of weeks. After six months even my wife and I accepted these issues as part of our way daily life and ‘routine’. However, after the last modification it has not failed; not even once in the last 3 months. I have to add that due to our daily activity, our door is opened-shut several times per day every day, so we have really experienced this issue for a looooong time.

Anyway, this modification consisted in two things. One, changing the screws on the strike plate-door frame with bolts and nylon insert nuts for a better fixation. Second and what I think really did the trick, was doing whatever is needed to push and fix further/deeper into the door the whole latch assembly. In my case, it was flush with the door; as it should be. Now, I have reworked the door so I could push it further in. It is not flush anymore as it is about 1.5mm deeper in the door. This means there is a 1.5mm gap between the latch assembly and the strike plate when the door is shut.

Voila! No more getting stuck inside the house.

To be honest, I cannot explain why/how this worked. However, with the amount of ‘failures’ while opening the door from the inside that I used to had, I can say it really worked as I have not had one single issue for the last 3 months. Good luck and hope this helps you.

There seems to be a magnet mechanism or some sort of lock mechanism on the latch bolt. I have tested and found that the latch bolt budges much more easily when the lever is pushed (from outside) or pulled (from inside). That's why you can't open the door without pushing or pulling the lever.

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I hope to shed some light on this by sharing what we know about the issue and solutions that we attempted.

Background: We have installed about 3000 of these Samsung locks (P718 and variants of these) since 2015 and we do sometimes get “I am locked inside” calls over the years. Installation experience matters much more so (for this “push-pull” lock from Samsung). versus the traditional turn lever type of digital locks.

Issues and solutions

Issue #1: Unable to unlock from inside when pulling the handle but manage to unlock after a few times. This is due to installation issue where there is friction between the bolt and the strike (on the door jamb). Temporary solution: push door in with one hand while pulling the Samsung handle. Proper Solution: Adjust the strike plate

Issue #2: Unable to unlock from inside when pulling the handle but unable to unlock even after many attempts. We do see cases where the *bolt* is jammed so even if you have the mechanical keys , you cannot unlock from outside (because the internal bolt mechanism) is jammed up. Solution: get a + screwdriver and remove the rear lock body and plate so that someone from outside can remove the outer body and exposing the mortise. Stick in a ‘-’ screw driver into the slit (where the ‘ice-cream stick’ like shaft was) and apply force to forcibly turn to retract the bolt (note: may require a lot of force).

Issue #3: (mystery): We have heard of some users who solved the above problems after replacing the batteries and there are some posts in this thread that mirrors our thinking, that the mortise bolt mechanism went into an ‘in-flight’ state (that prevents even a manual pull to unlock). Cases from this scenarios resolved itself and the problem did not repeat (to our knowledge after). The sensitity to “in-flight” power loss is a mystery (perhaps to the person who designed the mortise.

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Thank many for your experience share, Atlantisfixit

Could you please instruct us how to solve problem with batteries quickly drained. (I use Samsung P718 with Baxel batteries).

It is better if i can solve this issue without main board replacing.

Thanks in advance.

If your P718 had battery water leaked in the P718 before, then you need to replace the main circuit board. It is a 100% correlation.

If your P718 is still "new" ie no battery water leak, then it is more difficult to correlate. We would say 80% main circuit board but there is a chance one of the front body electronic component is faulty.

Hi Atlantis fix it, wow 3000 installations, impressive, I have a SHS P171 to install and seem to remember seeing this requires an auto door closer but can’t locate anything now that I have done my research on the closer and am ready to purchase. Can you shed any light on the requirement for an auto closer? Is it something you install to your doors?

Thank you @atlantisfixit I have the SPH-DP728, locked from the inside and tried many times pulling/ yanking while holding down Close button. It took me one try with your method: Temporary solution: push door in with one hand while pulling the Samsung handle. And it worked! Thank you again.

Plase mister. I really dont have any other to ask. My p718 is very hard to open inside. I need to make force to open. Sometimes, the dor dont close, its like a low battery, stop in the middle. My p718 has 20 days and batteries is new. I apreciate any answer. Thank you

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Hi @carlosam ,

What time delay have you got for the Door Lock Time Setup Function? If it is the default of 1 second try increasing the time by a second or two and see if it makes a difference, you can always go back to the default of 1 second if it doesn't

This image taken from the user guide for the lock states that the deadbolt jam problem can be prevented by adjusting the time delay. I'm wondering if this may be what is happening with your lock.

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(click on image to enlarge for better viewing)

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Hi @jayeff . It's not delay issue, since it happens many minutes (maybe hours) after I've entered my apartment.

It's like the unlock mechanism is not being triggered. So I have to keep trying pushing in different ways and strengths until it gives any signal of "life". Once or twice I had to force the open with a knife on the door's slit where the dead bolt is.

For some reason, when closing, the door is able to lock (dead bolt) but the system is not activated, so it's not able to trigger the unlocking system.

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Hi @carlosam ,

I'm still wondering. If the deadbolt is being jammed so that it is not "fully engaged" as far as the electronics are concerned it doesn't matter how long afterwards it won't work.

Have you tried adjusting the delay time anyway? If it doesn't prove to be the problem you'll know soon enough.

It might be worth trying! I will set a longer delay! Thanks for you support!

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My lock encountered the same issue but only today it can’t be open. I held e bottom of the handle (inside) and open it, voila.

Afterwhich I called e support and they mentioned that battery type is very important. Battery MUST be alkaline. After I change the battery, everything works perfectly. I have been using this lock for 1 year plus.

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Hey. The issue with mines is that it locks from the outside. I noticed that problem is with the sensor. If the sensor (once the door is locked) remains pushed in, the latch bolt will not budge. But then again, the sensor has to be pushed in order to auto lock. I am so confused now and don’t know what to do. Does anyone know how to contact Samsung in the US?

Hi Great post and responses. Certainly helped me get 100% door openings from the outside.

I'm hoping I can get some advice on another matter. Battery performance!

At the moment I am only getting 1 month battery life. I've tried several different battery brands including Duracell but no change. The door is opened on average ten times a day.

My model is SHS-P710.

@shertiger 1 month battery life means your rear circuit board has experienced a prior battery water leak (70% probability), the other 30% (some electronic components in the front body is faulty). Even it is not alkaline, it would last more than 1 month for this model.

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Hello all,

I’ve recently purchased and installed an SHSP718. Unfortunately, I had the same issue last night. I couldnt open from the inside after several minutes and attempts.

Is there any update on how to sort this issue?

On the other hand, this doorlock came with 5 override mechanical keys. However, I couldnt find any slot for these to be used. Nor from the inside or outside.

Any input will be very appreciated.

Thanks

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Metal key holes at the bottom of the front body. There is a flap right at the bottom. Dig in with your finger nails to pop the flap open and you will see the key holes and the 9V battery terminals hidden there.

Further to my earlier reply, if the issue (newly) happens after installation. it is an installation issue.

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The door won't lock when door is closed when i press and hold the sensor while the door is open the door locks .Any advice?

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It sounds like your lock is set to manual. Remove the cover from your batteries and you will see three control; the Reg button, the volume lever and the AlM lever. Push the AlM lever to the right and that should fix your problem.

If the issue is recent (after installation), then it is likely it is an alignment issue. The sensor is not depressed in sufficiently by the strike plate. So focus on alignment.

If the issue appears after 2 or more years (after installation), the Samsung mortise needs to be replaced. We see a statistically higher average of sensor failures with the initial mortise model that comes with the P718 P728 series.

Note: the mortise model has since been replaced by a new variant in late 2018. Only time will tell if the new mortise model has the same issue.

Further to the above, if you leave the door open and press the sensor, and there is no "ding" sound, the lock does not detect the door close , so is a mortise failure (or a progressively failing mortise if the issue is intermittent). Change the mortise.

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I am encountering a different problem. Whenever i close the door the deadbolt comes out then goes back in while the lock makes a sound. It eventually goes back in and remains open. Because of this issue, my door cannot be locked. Can someone assist please?

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Solved this problem

Hi Stephen, did you manage to solve the issue? My door has the same problem. Locking unlocking and remains open.

Statistically, it leans towards installation not done well or too tight with the screws. Dismantle and redoing it may be quick fix. That said, we sometimes have to replace the mortise for this issue. Do the former and if luck is not on your side, then the latter.

Thanks many for your advice @atlantisfixit

I had this problem and changed to the newer mortice. Now it will lock but pushing the outside handle unlocks the deadbolt without entering a code! I managed to sort that out by using the security function, lock from outside by touching the keypad, then the lock 'button' then the asterisk. Works normally. But, I still cannot lick from the inside. It will lock but pushing the outside handle over-rides it. Tried a factory reset, no joy.

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The battery seems to be the cause of the problem. My Samsung SHS P718 suffers the same problem every time the battery is low and even after I replace the battery. The original battery of the lock was Alkaline and used for a very long time, about a year, and no issue happened then. But problem began to occur from the time I changed to non-alkaline bateries. Recently I accidentally used alkaline batteries and the problem no longer happened.

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As far fetched as the posting may sound (that a lock bolt jam could be due to battery), there is some truth in it. Refer to issue #3 in my post on Jan 20 in this thread. The non-alkaline battery power level drop near the tail end would be quite steep and that may leave an "in-flight" state with the bolt mechanism. Very odd but quite a few cases that we know of supports this basis - not to use carbon zinc battery for the push pull series locks.

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i…… stuck in the house, with no batter to change. the door cant open from the inside….

have to call security bring some batteries for me.

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I remove the spring bolt and use only the dead bolt problem solved . Been using it about 4 years now

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The latch ("spring bolt") is there for a good reason - to keep the door in a certain range of position (for locking and other purposes without locking -say if you are having a party and wanted to keep to Autolock off and want the door to stay closed). But if it makes no difference to your context , then it could be a way to mitigate (skip the repair of the mortise- but I am not sure of the statistics to support this even though it sounds likely to be related to the jammed issue).

wow that's a really good idea cz my problem totally comes from the latch bolt. But I dont' know how to remove it.

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We have issue with p728 which cannot autolock after it got reset . I can auto lick using the key . How to resolve it ?

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Cannot autolock reasons in likelihood:

1. mortise sensor failure (if it is 2-4 years old but unlikely to be when it is new); tell tale sign, no "ding" sound when the door is closed.

2. alignment / installation issue if it is recently installed

3. if you accidentally turn off autolock when you changed batteries and fiddled with that switch near the batteries

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I have this problem with Samsung Dr708 if I tried to pull the handle too early from the inside before the door opening melody finishes. This unintentional pulling cause the spring bolt to be “pressed” against the strike plate and prevent the door from opening. Just wait for the door opening melody to run about 1 second before trying to pull the handle.

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The mechanics of DR708 , having removed the (previous version) need for the hand motion pressure to engage / release the latch ("spring bolt") and now reliant on sensor and motor to release latch is poorly designed and implemented.

It is not well designed; it is not intuitive.

This is really a poorly executed implementation of a promise (on a brochure). But if you have never used alternatives (or even the older versions), then it may be normal to you.

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I noticed our SHS-P718 has been doing some strange things over the past couple of weeks, including unable to open from inside and random failure to lock/unlock like it was dead batteries, even though I had just replaced them. I had a good look at it today and thought perhaps the batteries were not contacting properly and the lock was intermittently losing power.

I gave all of the battery terminals on the lock a good clean with a bit of fine sandpaper and then stretched the springs slightly with a small screwdriver. Problem solved, the door lock is working great now!

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The opening from inside is purely mechanical and does not require battery (power). It is a mortise issue which will either appear progressively more often (or never again) , that is our observation over many cases.

I have to further add to my earlier comments that battery power (or anything that affects delivery of battery power - circuit board problem, wrong batteries,) is the most common cause of the problem (even though it manifected itself as a mechanical issue).

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the answer lies in your door width. If your door is to narrow for the spindle, when you tighten the lock together you are putting to much pressure on the mechanism it, that wont work. The spindle turns without needing power from the inside, its purely mechanical. Your solution could be to get a wider door, add a spacer (make sure you add 2, one on the outside and one on the inside, this way both sides are even, or trim your spindle down, which I do not recommend.

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Yes, we have seen (very few) cases of the handle spindle shaft's length being too long for the door's thickness, so there will be some friction and sometimes the handle position cannot return to it's original position after pushing/pulling. This could be one of the possible causes but in our experience, they are statistically lower but worth checking it out.

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I had one incident in 5 years where the whole family was trapped inside. Reason? Earlier changed batteries to Energizer Max. Apparently this battery is “too strong” and affected the electronics. This is what the dealer said. So just use “normal” akaline batteries. And just use 4 (best) or 6 batteries Max. No repeat incident since.

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How is this possible? The door opens mechanically from the inside. You don't need batteries at all to open it.

Beware of dealer or dealer staff's knowledge (or lack of). Anyone handling electronics (or for that matter specifically an electronic door lock) should know better than dishing the notion of "battery too strong". Surprisingly, we get to hear the same in this part of the world too ; foklores spread fast in today's online world.

A faulty battery or misuse of battery (mixing old/new batteries, different types - carbon zinc, alkaline etc, or letting battery run so low that any imperfection of a lock MORTISE design such as Samsung's may be sensitive too) would be more rational explanation. The root cause is likely in the last sentence - as odd as it may seem considering that the inside handle is purely mechanical - but you will have to read my earlier replies to understand.

@n4te It is true the door opens mechanically from the inside and that you don't need batteries at all to open it.

The problems seen in this thread are true as well and hence the logical conclusion is it manifest itself as a mechanical problem but the root cause is sometimes installation, and .... here's the revelation : many times from an inperfection (flaw) of the Samsung mortise design (which seems to be at times very sensitive to battery level - specifically low battery level as opposed to "too strong) >> you have to see it across multiple occurences across different installations for this statement to be made... pure logic without data does not help.

@atlantisfixit Saying there is a "flaw" with the mechanical mechanism is one thing, saying the mechanical mechanism is sensitive to the battery level is just nonsense -- it has nothing to do with the battery. However, I don't believe there is a flaw, the mechanical mechanism works fine. Most likely people install it incorrectly, resulting in the deadbolts being too tight or some other installation problem. The door handle and mechanism itself is solid and works correctly when installed correctly.

@n4te I don't know about what you know (or do not know) to comment on your comment about something I said being "just nonsense", but I would agreed with you on that being nonsense *when we FIRST saw the initial emergence of this problem. We have seen this many times since the push pull Samsung model was introduced 6-7 years ago and if you read my earlier replies, there are a few explanations to some of the problems (they are different ones mentioned in this thread) and yours address some scenarios. We are in this industry: we know more statistically speaking than most people facing this issue in this thread. And more importantly, we were perplexed - but we asked questions for those cases, and there is statistical support for cases (where the mortise seized up) happening when the battery is very low (when they are carbon zinc, or mixed bag of types). It made no sense (with proper design), but correlation with low / uneven? battery power should not be put aside as "nonsense" with the data we see. And the data comes from many occurences with us on the phone with clients, or in front of the door breaking the mortise, because the key does not work as well when it seized up. So no, not installation related for these cases (of mortise seizing up). But peace, I am just sharing information so each can find some solution to their lock problem ( the ones mentioned in this thread beyond the starter are not all the same). You don't have to agree but I think " made no sense" would come across better than "just nonsense".

PS. I was looking for an analogy and while it may not be the best, imagine cycling uphill and in midst of changing gears, your feet slipped off the pedal a bit (lost that power) and the gear / chain derailed. Oh well...

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Atlantisfixit has the correct solution.

Scroll above and see my comments on his thread. He is right.

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I solved the "unlock from inside" problem like this:

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For the latch bolt to make contact before the dead bolt.

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