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Device and repair information for the 60" LED HD TV by Samsung released in 2013, model number UN60FH6003FXZA.

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Samsung Curve TV wont power on

r/fixit

Samsung Curve tv wont turn on.

u/Sceprent

Fun one hopefully, after hours of browsing I can't find a good guide on testing the power supply or main board. My Curve is acrually a UN55JU6700 2015 Curvy boy decided to just turn off the other day.

Symptoms: wont turn on, idle light flashes on/off, Capacitors have no physical signs of damage, and the relay keeps clicking a few times every few seconds.

I know one way to test old microwave capacitors was to short em and see if they spark, also to avoid getting killed. I did this for fun and pretty much all of them sparked. The little 250v 105° one's don't spark, but I don't think that means anything. Says COLD also CM862/CM863 near those.

Hoping I can figure it out, the boards aren't pricey and I recently fixed my laptop by swapping the CPU. (I know not common, but it was the fix!)

Pics

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http://imgur.com/fXalhbY http://imgur.com/0yrhEXt http://imgur.com/4K4tQ40 http://imgur.com/KJ8yqZw

Update (06/03/2018)

http://imgur.com/8eKNBun

http://imgur.com/22wBfON

http://imgur.com/akLL4XV

Values

Update (06/03/2018)

I realized it needs to be DC COLD end and AC Hot end. So I'm only getting 2.8 on the first idle power pin. Probably a good sign in diagnosing the problem. Also unplugging the main board from power no backlight, not sure if that applies to my tv as it has the I think it's called "Tcon" board. Some fluctuations going on too.

Update : I decided to start trying out boards, they're only $20 for my TV. I ordered the Power supply board due to the fluctuation which indicates capacitors or power management sytstem whichever that's called, due to the fact I see no apparent damage I'm just swapping the board out. Ordered a returnable main board just in case as plan B.

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Yes it is acalled a T-con board. Your backlight should comne on with the main board disconnected. Right now it appears as if you are having a power board issue. Let me see if I can find the schematic for it so we can have you check things out.,

Thanks buddy. Also I should have mentioned all these readings are jumping from 0 to the reading in the span of 1 second fluctuating like crazy when read from the actual 8 board poles rather than the ribbon. so like 2.8v 0v 1.4 2.8v. I double checked my Volt meter in the wall outlet and it gets the steady 110.

I did figure out how to read all 12 though, so when I go straight in 1-12 I get solid readings, the on/off and turn on positions 4 and 8 give me 2.8-3.3 as I understand some TVs will give this rather than 5v. Also I've tried the short to ground from on/off to ground to check backlights, it didn't work. I saw a tutorial that mentioned if your on/off has voltage then it uses the short to ground method, if it gives no voltage then you short on/off to the 12.8v.

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@sceprent you should test the connector on the board first before making all the capacitors spark. Testing capacitors by shortening it is really not a reliable test at all. Check the outputs on CNM803 and CNL802 against the values printed on the board itself. Let us know what those values are.

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True oldturkey! You're exactly whom I hoped would chime in!

CNM803 has 12 positions but only six I can touch w voltmeter.

Cmn803 Dcv Reads

1.) 5.7v. or 2.8 DCV

Position 2-5 gives 27v. 12.6DCV

6.) No read, zero v.

I guess according to the pic I'll include its 5v and 13v.

CNL802 Hot side Acv

1-3.) 0v

4.)200v

5-7.) 0v

8.)400v

Sorry this probably isn't helpful. I could probably stick something in the other wires to get a read but they're unlabeled so I don't know what order. I read each of these from top down to bottom from where the pins go to the board off the ribbon connector.

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