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Samsung standby led double flashing 5 times. Will not power on.

Samsung UN55D6000SFXZA will not power on. Standby LED double flashes 5 times. Disconnected the power board from the mainboard, backlight did not come on. Disconnected the t-con from the mainboard, still no backlight. Output voltage from power board reads 5v and 13v (respectively) initially and quickly goes down to 0v. Do not see any damaged capacitors. Do I have a faulty power board, mainboard, t-con board or LED array?

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my samsung does the sams but it's model is pn51f8500 what can i do?

KALVIN MOSLEY yours is a plasma TV so your issues should be different. You need to give us more information about what it is that your TV is doing (or not doing)

I have the same problem but when I disconnected the power board from the main board the led lights come on could this be a capacitor problem. My model number is UN50JU6500F it's a Samsung Smart tv plz help

i have the same problem but if i disconnect the mainboard the backlight will come out fast, but i have returned it in it will turned it off again immediatly... it blinks twice for 5 times also

Oh, Jeffrey I, Samsung UA46D6000 is just as bad. Chances are it will also damage the LED. Thank you.

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'''Jeffrey I'''  the thing with Samsung is that they really do not use blink codes. Yes, they do show up but there is no good guide for it. The main question is always how to distinguish if the problem is caused by Main board or T-Con. a. No Video : If the problem is No Video but BLU is on and Indication LED is blinking repeatedly and faster than normal booting, replace the T-Con board.

“Disconnected the power board from the mainboard, backlight did not come on” sounds like a power board issue. Check pin 14 on CNM803 on the power board and see if you have 5V on that. If no it’s your power board. If yes check the mainboard power IC output

L202 : B3.3V

L203 : B1.2V

L204 : B1.1V

L201 : B1.5V

IC203 : 3.3V

IC208 : 3.3V

If you do not have that voltage, its your main board. If you do check power on T-con Board.

- L9(T-CON) : VCC12

- TP_VCC33 : VCC33

change the t-con board. If that does not work, you are looking at possibly a failed backlight array.

Block Image

Let us know what you get. Also, post some good images of your boards with your question. That way we can see what you see. Use this guide Adding images to an existing question for that.

Update (06/06/2018)

++'''Jeffrey I'''++ for the T-con board follow this one

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TP VCC should be marked on the board.

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Thank you very much for the detailed response! I will report back with the findings.

Checked all the voltages as you suggested.

Power board

CNC803: 5v constant & steady

Mainboard

L202: 3.3v initially and quickly goes down to .47v

L203: 1.21v initially and quickly goes down to 0v

L204: 1.14v initially and quickly goes down to 0v

L201: 1.56v initially and quickly goes down to 0v

L208: 3.3v initially and quickly goes down to 0v

IC203: 3.3v initially and quickly goes down to 0v

Is it normal for the voltage to read 3.3v and shoot down to 0v? Should it hold a steady 3.3v? Could this fluctuation be caused by a faulty power supply?

Can you please describe where the pin L9(T-CON) and TP_VCC33 is located on the T-CON board?

The fuse on the T-CON had continuity and fluctuated between 12.3v and .31v when plugged in.

Thanks agin for your help!

This sounds more like a main board issue than a power board, since you are taking the measurement from the circuitry on the main board. I'd replace that first (always purchase at places that have a decent return policy). It is difficult to try to repair things strictly based on values etc. on the internet. I compare it to trying to repair your car's engine through the tailpipe with a pair of knitting needles. So, what we give you is our best evaluation of the data you provide us with. Most of the time we are spot on, but we have missed a few as well ;-)

I took the output voltages from the power board and I get the same phenomenon. Initial voltage reads correctly and quickly shoots down to zero. The only constant voltage is the stand-by 5v. How do I measure the t-con board? Which pins should I check?

SOLVED: It turned out to be the LEDs. Took the screen apart to expose the backlight LEDs ( left and right sides). After testing each LEDs for continuity, the right strip had 19 out of 100 LEDs burned out or shorted. These LED strips are not cheap and hard to find since discontinued. I wish i could replace the individual SMD LEDs. But would not know the exact part number.

Oldturkey03, thank you for your help!

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Power boards measure the return current from the backlight and if there is a difference between strings then the Power board will cut all power.. so disconnecting the Mainboard from the Power board DOES NOT point to a faulty Power board if the backlight does not come on!!

Measure the backlight’s return loss to find if the backlight has failed because ‘most often’ this will be the cause of the Tv switching off.. power cycling etc..

If you find the backlight has failed sell it for spares because unless you have experience with the LCD screen you will break it !

Tahng

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I've got what appear to be a similar problem. Could you clarify for me a little please?

You say the power board measures current from the backlight and stops if it's different.. what if it's zero, ie. disconnected?

The voltages on this one appear to rise properly but drop to zero with everything but power disconnected.

After a few seconds that cycle repeats.

Thanks.

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Power supply faulty if backlights did not come on after disconnecting main board

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zshams4848 that is what it says in the answer that was given 1 year ago. Anything new to add?

Why when I disconnect the 20 pin from power supply to the main board the led s come on?

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i found 4 or 5 led lights burnt out on my samsung after i replaced my pwer board the board was burnt like charcoal

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Jeffrey I 가/이 대단히 고마워 할 것입니다.
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