The W123 chassis covers 240D's, 300D's, 300TD's, 280E's, and several other models of Mercedes coupes, sedans and wagons from model years 1977 to 1985.

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Headlights and fogs not woking

1985 Mercedes 300 cd turbo

head and fog lights do not turn on

have replaced all fuses, checked ground on passenger headlight corner

passing light lever on turn signal will make headlights work therefor its not the bulbs

rear defrost out

cruise control out

tachometer works, speedometer works, turn signals work , rear lights work, hazard lights work.

no loose wires apparent

help please

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I went to my fuse panel last night and checked for continuity which was present, will check the voltages tonight. I did however put a brand new light switch in a few days ago and got nothing so am assuming I do not have a bad switch unless a terminal was connected improperly by someone diddling with it prior to my work on it

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it was a loose connection under the fuse panel and to the left of the brake pedal beneath the kick panel drivers side

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Have you read and completed this guide to w123 fuses and fuse box service ?

How to check Mercedes W123 Fuses

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First thing I did was remove all the old fuses followed by light sanding of all contacts and use of contact cleaner. All new fuses wer then added.

Also check and cleaned the ground

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So did this fix it?

I just checked my low beam circuit and the rear tab of the low beam fuses go hot (12+) when you turn the headlight switch on with dip set on low beam. If you don’t get that result one of the two switches is probably bad leading to this open circuit. Mine is a 1985 300 SD (USA) by the way.

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went to the schematic and found there was a connector between the switch and the fuse box. It was loose and with some effort mushing them together the lights came on. In the process I lost my parking marker lights.

On the switch there are 4 leads coming off the terminal to the left of the two red power leads. Up at the fuse box there is only one. So you go from 4 to 1. the lead got snipped and place on a fresh lead to the switch terminal and all is operational.

It required undoing the small nut that holds the fuse panel in place and getting at the harness below it.

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