replace control panel lighting
control panel lighting does not illuminate
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Do you mean the power button doesn’t light up and nothing works?
Then yes, unplug and wait and replug. If it still doesn’t work it’s likely the thermal fuse.
If you mean the LCD doesn’t light up and the oven still works:
If it doesn’t light at all there is a simple current source on the PCB. Test the transistor and Zener diode.
If the display has become dim it is more likely to be the LED backlight that is failing. LEDs aren’t immortal and they normally become dimmer as they age and sometimes fail altogether.
It is possible to disassemble the backlight down to the components, you just need to be delicate and careful.
The backlight is a whitish flat rectangular piece of plastic with silvered edges and diffusers, and a small PCB with 4 blue LEDs on it. It’s right under the LCD and is held in place with a small amount of glue. Desolder the wires, push the backlight out gently a little bit , then you can peel the diffuser off where the LEDs are, then you can remove the little PCB. It’s all just glued in place.
LEDs need to be installed the right way, the PCB has markings A and K for anode and cathode.
This is the LED you can use: Kingbright APT1608LVBC/D .
These are 0603 size parts, so about 1.6 x 0.8 mm. Get an electronics person to do this if you don’t want to. You’ll for sure need a good iron with a small tip to do this.
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This is a great answer. I've performed a few repairs on this model but never ran into the backlight LED issue. At least one of my LEDs was shorting out the current generator, so I ordered a bunch from Digikey. They're fairly easy to remove.
Putting the new ones in is gonna be fun!
Thanks for the part# btw.
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Hi,
Either there is a problem on the control panel pcb which supplies the backlight power to the LCD unit, a faulty connection on the board between the board and the LCD unit or the LCD’s internal backlight circuit is faulty and the LCD will have to be replaced as it cannot be repaired.
Here’s a link to just one supplier which shows the pcb with the attached LCD unit.
I cannot find a schematic of the pcb online. which may help you to trace the backlight power circuit to verify where the problem is. You could perhaps find the schematic by searching online for (insert pcb board number) and check if there are any results, Worth a try.
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There are two models (at least) of this oven. One has orange and blue/(white-ish) LED's and the other (earlier version) has only blue.
The Blue ones are
Kingbright APT1608LVBC/D
Digikey 754-1933-1-ND
LED BLUE CLEAR 2SMD
Orange ones are
Kingbright APT1608LSECK/J4-PRV
Digikey 754-1931-1-ND
LED ORANGE CLEAR 2SMD
The blue-only display has 2 wires. The blue/orange will have 3 wires.
I suggest ordering 10 since it will probably take a few tries to get them installed perfectly. I found hot-air rework was a bit too much for this 2mm wide PCB a super fine low-temp like for a Metcal station will work best. Test the PCB with 10 mA of current before returning to the display board to make sure you have it right.
I found you need to disassemble a LOT to get to it.. But, I found you will have the best luck if you remove the top cover with the control panel still attached to the top cover. (One screw underneath to allow it to be removed.) Obviously, other stuff needs disassembly - bottom feet, small metal spacer in feet thingy. There is a helpful YouTube video by a guy "Dave" on disassembling, but he's kinda brutish and gets impatient @ the end and just bends stuff. Totally unnecessary. He also prys up the cover to use an extended screwdriver to reach the front panel. Again, Not needed. Keep the CP attached until you remove the cover.. Then remove the CP and disassemble it. Keep screws sorted for different lengths and types.
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