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Repair guides and troubleshooting information for microwave ovens.

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GE microwave randomly loses power

2011 GE microwave will sometimes lose power after use. If I unplug the power and plug back in, it will usually come back on. But sometimes even when it regains power, the control panel buttons won’t work unless the door is open. After resetting the time, it works fine for a while.

I have already replaced both thermal fuses and the control panel. Also, no matter if the microwave is working or not working, if you slam the door, the surface light bulbs will flash.

I was now thinking of replacing the door switches?

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Hi @jsas,

With the power disconnected from the microwave and the high voltage capacitor discharged safely, ensure that all the door interlock switches, are not loose and then use an Ohmmeter to check that they operate correctly when the door is closed normally.

What is the model number of the microwave oven?

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Model # HVM1750SP1SS How do you discharge the capacitor?

Hi @jsas ,

If the model compliance plate on your microwave mentions "internal resistor" just disconnecting the microwave from the power for about 10 minutes should be sufficient to discharge the capacitor as it has an inbuilt resistor discharge circuit around the hi voltage capacitor. It would still be advisable to make sure by using a suitably sized screwdriver as outlined below.

If it doesn't mention anything about an internal resistor it may be safer to make a discharge lead as I explain below.

Because I've done this a few times I have made up a discharge lead consisting of 10 x 10KOhm 5W resistors - example only wired in series connection, connected to a lead with an alligator clip at each end, i.e. alligator clip - resistor bundle - lead - alligator clip

This creates a 100K Ohm 50W discharge lead

I then connect one end of the lead to the microwave chassis (earth) and the other end of the lead to the exposed +ve terminal of the hi voltage capacitor and allow it to discharge for about 5-10 minutes.

After that I place a big bladed screwdriver with a thick shank and a plastic handle directly across the +ve and -ve terminals of the capacitor, shorting them out to make doubly sure that it has fully discharged.

Some people just place the big screwdriver straight across the capacitor terminals to short them out. I don't like this as you can get a big spark and I believe perhaps wrongly but maybe not, that doing it this way can damage the capacitor as there is a huge albeit brief current flow through the capacitor. With a discharge lead like I use, there is a controlled flow of current that is slowly dissipating until the capacitor has fully discharged

Also I've seen the result when people don't use a big enough screwdriver and it has literally melted across the capacitor terminals arc welded if you like.

Here's a link to the parts for your model. The door switches are parts #25 & 26

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