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Repair information, service manuals, and troubleshooting help for refrigerators manufactured by KitchenAid.

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KitchenAid Fridge and Freezer Running Warm

My fridge is a KitchenAid 5 Door KRMF706ESS. Basically both the fridge section and the freezer section are running a bit warm. I have the fridge set to 37F and the freezer to 0F and it is in a ~77F environment. The ice maker in the fridge section is cold enough to freeze ice, but not cold enough to harvest it. (I read that it has to reach 16F to dispense the ice into the bin.) I ran a manual ice harvest using the Technician’s codes and all the components seem to be working properly. The freezer is also cold enough to keep things frozen, but ice cream is soft. I made sure the condenser coils were clear of debris, and both evaporator fans are running. The evaporator coils are not iced over. I initially repaired a faulty seal on the fridge door, but that has not solved my issue. My only other thought is possibly a low refrigerant level, but the compressor sounds normal (although it is hot to the touch) and the condenser coils are warm indicating what I assume to be proper refrigerant flow. Condenser fan is also working properly.

Any help would be so appreciated! This issue is driving me insane. Thank you!

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Hi,

What are the actual temps in the compartments? Try placing a thermometer in each to see what the temps are so that at least you know how much the difference is between the set and the actual. Check first thing in the a.m. as that way the refrigerator has had all night to achieve a stable temp without doors being opened more often and cold air lost due to normal user activity

Is the evaporator fan operating?

Is the compressor running continually trying to achieve the set temps or does it stop occasionally for a short while "thinking" that the temps are OK? (don't mean stopping for the defrost cycle which means stopped for about 20 minutes once every ~10 hours)

You said that the compressor is "hot to touch" is it too hot to touch for long?

if so check for oily residues on the condenser coils or on/below the compressor. There is a special lubricating oil mixed in with the refrigerant to lubricate the compressor and if there was a leak then the refrigerant would escape to the air undetected but the oil would leave a trace.

@jayeff (1/2) Hey! Thanks for your reply. I went out and bought an infrared thermometer this morning, and checked the temps in each section. It actually appears the fridge is the correct temperature. I was getting between 34-39F, but the in the freezer I was getting temps of 12-18F. And I opened the ice maker lid and found it to be around 20F.

The compressor seems to be running pretty continuously, although it did shut off for around 20 minutes last night which I assumed to be the defrost cycle. I'm hoping to be able to watch it all today to get a better idea of the run time. I also just measured the compressor temperature and it is ~130-140F in high stage which I believe is normal. I checked the surrounding coils and under the compressor for oil residue and didn't find anything. However there are some green spots that I assumed to be condensation that dripped from the copper pipes.

@jayeff (2/2) Both evaporator fans are running well, and there is definitely good air flow coming into the freezer. Do you know if the ice maker on these models get cold air from the freezer coils or is it from the fridge coils? I am wondering if this is simply a freezer issue or an overall cooling issue.

Thanks again for the help!

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Hi,

Don’t know about the ice maker, but looking at the parts for the refrigerator, there is a refrigerant valve (unit parts - part #6) which I believe distributes the refrigerant between the two evaporator units as required to get to and maintain the set temperatures.

The freezer has a temperature sensor (freezer liner parts - part #9) so I was wondering if there was either a problem with the temp sensor (thermistor) indicating the temperature incorrectly or perhaps the control board or the valve. i.e. temp sensor signals the control board that operates the valve.

If you have an Ohmmeter, disconnect the power from the refrigerator and then disconnect the freezer sensor and measure it’s resistance directly across the sensor leads. Hopefully it also has info to identify it so that the datasheet can be found to match the resistance reading to the temperature.

Here’s an example of what I mean about what is shown on a thermistor datasheet. This is not for your temp sensor model as far as I know as this is in Celsius and not Fahrenheit and there are also 6 sensor models shown. The highlighted one was for information on another answer I provided for a different make and model refrigerator

Block Image

(click on image to enlarge for better viewing)

If it is the valve then the sealed system would need to be accessed and the refrigerant high/low pressures tested and maybe the refrigerant evacuated from the sealed system so that the valve can be tested/replaced etc. Not sure about where you are but have read that due to EPA regulations regarding the handling of refrigerant gases, a licensed repairer is required when working on the sealed system

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Sensor??? this is bull!! Freezers and Refrigerators should not have sensors to make them work.

The freezer should work.... Refrigerator should work at its temperature.... I am thinking of dismantling my $3k KitchenAid to dumb it down to make it work without these sensors.

Will have to strip the logic and install thermostat switches...no electronics in them.

Let the cold refrigerant cycle to the valve that is open for cooling by the switches.

Why is this so difficult? Because idiot engineering over complicated the cold cycles.

I am an engineer and i know when something is overcomplicated into unreliability.

I have a double door Kitchen Aid that is over 20 years and working great. Makes ice and freezer is 0F Refrig is 33F. I keep it because my junk $3k Kitchen Aid can't do the same.

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