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Device and repair information for the 60" LED HD TV by Samsung released in 2013, model number UN60FH6003FXZA.

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How do you test for a bad panel - other than replacing all the boards?

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My UN60EH6050FXZA has sound & backlight, but no picture from the start - even with flashlight test.

My BN95-00628C T-con does have 12v at both ends of the fuse, so does this mean it is NOT likely to be the Main Board?

Neither half of the screen comes on when I disconnect either one of the two ribbons from the T-con board to the panel.  So does that mean it is NOT likely the panel? But I've read other panel problems.

There is no voltage at the two twin “commonly failing” T-con board capacitors, which I understand typically have 35 volts. (the ones often sold in repair kits, along with an IC chip). Does this definitely mean a bad T-con board? Or could it still be panel - maybe even causing the T-con to fail? Thanks.

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@kaayo first off I am not even sure "at the two twin “commonly failing” T-con board capacitors" which ones those are nor did I know that it was a common failure. Just because you get 12V to the T-con board, does not rule out the main board. Since there are no schematics for the T-con boards, you could try and measure the most common test points and see if you have the common voltages there. The issues here are not what to do but that we can't check it due to a lack of documentation. WE rely on having to change the boards with the most likely failure, due to not having access to the information needed. That is why we always want the OP to post good pictures of their boards with their question. At least that gives us an opportunity to check components as good as we can. Like in your TV's case, I would recommend to change the T-con board. Failures like you are describing, most often originate on that board.

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Thank you. I figured out how to add the T-con photo to my OP, and a link to that repair kit I mentioned of common failed parts on the T-con board. (The kit contains the 2 capacitors circled in my photo, and an IC chip.)

The only test points I know values for are ones given in a very good Youtube video showing a guy replacing that IC chip. Those being the 12V fuse, and those 2 capacitors, which should be 35 volts, but are 0 in my case.

If you have anything more to add, I'd appreciate it. Otherwise, I might as well just replace the T-con and see what happens. Thanks again.

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@kaayo that is what I would do at this time. the issue here is that you have all the TP (Test Points)needed on your board but we don't know the exact voltages. Commonly those would be

1.Vin/Vcc…could be 3,5 or 12V you r case its 12 a measured on the fuse

2. VON/VGH/VGON/VGGG…. this voltage is between 20v -30v that could be what is missing on yours. Coming form the DC-DC IC

3.VOFF/VGL/VGOFF/VEEG…. This voltage is between -5 and -10 volts

4.VDD/Vlogic/Vddd/Dvdd…. usually 3.3v

7.Vcom…. this voltage is between 5v - 7v

and a few more. but those are the ones you have to have. Again, without a schematic, we could not even trace the TP.

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@oldturkey03 Thanks again. That is what I will do, and I'll post the results when I receive and install the new T-con Board.

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With the new T-con board, I now get picture for about a minute, until it freezes, and then gradually fades to black. It is the same when I check each side independently, (with only one T-con output ribbon connected to the panel at a time).

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@kaayo bad panel LCD drivers. Check the driver boards for bad components and check the ribbons going from the panel to the driver boards.

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