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How do you repair a firewire port?

My firewire port is not working.

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The firewire port is integrated to the logic board I don't think it can be repaired. Apple would do a logic board replacement for such a problem. The PB 1.67 has 2 firewire ports (400 and 800) so you can use the working one. If the firewire port 800 is still working you can buy a firewire cable 800 to 400 and connect your 400 devices with it.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/produc...

You may try usual troubleshooting stuff to try to restore the faulty port: pram reset, power manager unit reset.

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Shouldn't he be able to replace the firewire component? Or is it completely integrated into the logic board, not a separate board?

I'm going from memory here so I could be wrong, but I think in MacBooks the Firewire port is on the left side, and therefore on the replaceable DC-in/sound board, whereas in a PowerBook 17" it's on the right side of the logic board, and therefore not a replaceable component? Again, I don't have one in front of me, so I could be wrong.

To rab777hh: on the PB 1.67GHz 17 " the two firewire ports are located to the right side of the case and are integrated to the logic board. The power board, usb ports, audio ports can be replaced. Check this link:

http://mac.macrecycling.com/logic-board-...

Ahh, okay, thank you.

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I agree with Lemerise, definitely try the various resets, and I'd probably even wipe the drive and reinstall the OS to rule out software entirely. I would try various Firewire components as well, to make sure the problem is not with the specific device you are plugging in. If you only have one Firewire component, try connect it to another computer to verify that it works.

Does your laptop have power-related issues as well? I ask because I've seen a few machines that had flaky DC-in/sound boards, and one of the symptoms that the computers were having problems was that they were not recognizing Firewire devices...it would give a message indicating that a device was plugged in, but then it would not see that device, and replacing the DC-in/sound board corrected the problem. Anyway, that's probably a longshot, but I thought I'd mention it.

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