소개
If your AL2216W is having problems, it is likely due to bad capacitors. Here are some common symptoms of bad capacitors:
Note: While some issues may be corrected with a partial repair, this is NOT RECOMMENDED. One bad capacitor usually means the rest will fail!
- Power issues (Present issue)
- Excessive transformer/inverter hum (Present)
- Backlight problems
- Auto adjust problems (VGA) (Present)
- Random power issues that only resolve if the monitor is unplugged
- Video issues (Ex: Unstable image, video instability)
Original capacitor values (For Delta 00A power supply)
NOTE: I based the capacitor list on my monitor's specific power supply (Delta 00A). AS SUCH, YOURS MAY BE DIFFERENT. TO AVOID ISSUES WITH PARTS COMPATIBILITY, YOU MUST OPEN THE MONITOR UP TO VERIFY WHAT SPECIFIC CAPACITORS ARE USED. In addition to this, almost all of the original specced parts for the Delta 00A power supply are NLA or hard to come by and may need to be substituted with a part that has a higher voltage (V) or a higher microfarad rating (uF). If it comes down to this you must replace the entire bank of the substituted part otherwise the other capacitors are very likely to fail if they get power from the upgraded capacitor and are overloaded. This is the only real "issue" you may run into when upgrading parts; there are no issues in doing so otherwise as long as the upgrade is reasonable (Ex: 25v 1000uF no longer available, 35v 1000uf available).
NOTE: I have not attempted partial capacitor replacements with upgrades, so I do not know how keeping the originals and upgraded capacitors will affect the board. Even then, this is terrible practice; one going out usually means the others are next.
Part availability caution: While I did my best throughout this guide's life to keep up with part phaseouts (and "obsolete in practice" parts) by mitigating this issue with parts that are similar in voltage or uF, I cannot continuously monitor the market. You may need to make a substitution I did not make!
- 25V 1000uF (x2)
- 10V 1000uF (x1)
- 25V 220uF (x2)
- 16V 2200uF (x1, Found on early power supplies and is used to drive the inverter transformer. Not used on most power supply revisions as it was later removed)
필요한 것
-
-
Unplug the monitor for 24-48 hours. Wait 5-7 days before swapping the filter capacitor.
-
-
-
Remove the 4 screws from the monitor stand with a Philips #1 screwdriver. Remove the bottom screws first.
-
-
-
Sort this screw separately, as it is unique.
-
Remove 4 fine threaded screws from the back of the monitor with a Phillips #0 screwdriver. All of these screws are the same.
-
-
-
On the bottom of the monitor, there are four slots to open the monitor. To release these clips, use a Jimmy or flathead screwdriver.
-
-
-
With the monitor unclipped on the bottom, pull the sides of the monitor up. Do this slowly to avoid cracking the LCD.
-
-
-
With the back of the monitor off, remove the 2 screws on the IEC power connector using a Phillips #0 screwdriver.
-
-
-
Remove the 4 screw pins for the video cables from the monitor. Use a 5mm Nut bit/driver to remove the screw pins from the power supply shield.
-
-
-
-
Disconnect the flat flex cable that goes to the control board.
-
-
-
Remove the 2 lower screws that hold the power supply shield to the monitor with a Phillips #0 screwdriver.
-
-
-
On the right side of the monitor, remove the remaining screws holding the shield in place.
-
Lift the lower plate up while removing the power supply shield to remove it from the monitor. Once this is done, you will have access to the power supply.
-
-
-
This capacitor is only found on older power supplies. Replacement is advised, but not required.
-
With the power supply shield removed from the monitor, identify the power supply. Take note of the values, including the inverter cap (if present).
-
Remove the 4 screws from the power supply. Once this is done, lift up the power supply at a slight angle to clear the chassis. Do not lift too much or the connector may be damaged!
-
-
-
If you are unsure of the position of the capacitors, mark the polarity with a permanent marker. If the capacitors are incorrectly installed, they will explode when power is applied.
-
-
-
To prepare the board for capacitor replacement, add flux or solder.
-
-
-
Move to a workspace with ventilation or use a fume extractor. Once in an appropriate workspace, desolder the old capacitors. Heat up each leg and remove it.
-
After removing the capacitors, clean up the old solder with a desoldering braid. Lift it with the iron when removing it.
-
-
-
Install the new capacitors. Check the polarity and bend the leads so they do not come loose during installation.
-
-
-
Once the polarity is verified, solder the capacitors in. After installation, cut off any excess lead.
-
-
-
After verifying there are no cold solder joints, clean the board. This can be cleaned with 91%+ Isopropyl or denatured alcohol.
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
다른 12명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
팀
댓글 28개
I did not replace the large capacitor on the Acer monitor yet. All other caps have been replaced. I may have to replace the FSPO55- ZP102A as it has a hot spot beside it. I don't know if the part number is right? Do know where I can buy it. Tom B
These older CCFL panels usually burn on the PCB by the inverter coil and main transformer (the Delta branded part, in this case). The LED monitors limit the failure points to the transformer.
It sounds like your PCB got burned from the heat by the transformer or the inverter coil. This is very common and the boards are designed to take it. However, if you are concerned you should buy a new power supply board altogether if that makes you more comfortable.
Nick -
In step 12, replacing the capacitors with ones with a different capacitance rating instead of using a capacitor rated for higher voltage makes no sense to me electrically. The capacitance rating is the important part, if you use a capacator rated for say 35 volts when the original is rated for 10 makes no difference whatsoever. the rating just means MAX voltage.
