소개
선행 작업용.
필요한 것
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스퍼저의 납작한 끝을 사용하여 왼쪽 스피커 커넥터를 들어 올려 로직 보드의 소켓에서 빼내세요.
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스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 오른쪽 스피커 커넥터를 로직 보드의 소켓에서 위로 들어 올려 빼내세요.
This step could use an image showing the cable lock in the "up" position, releasing the connector. It is hard to see how it works in the "down" position. I think this is the actual connector - there are images in the PDF linked here:
http://www.ddknet.co.jp/English/products...
My MBP has an intermittent connection in this keyboard cable. It would be good to know where to buy a replacement!
Pry the speaker connectors *up and out*. Doing it from the cable's sides, next to connectors, is easier.
Adhesive under the left cable made it hard for me to remove it. The right one came out very easy.
i broke off all the connectors to the logic board any fix for this ?
Steven Rai - 답글
Key here is to go EXTREMELY slow and gentle. The speaker connector in left photo has no release lever(in case you were wondering) I used a tweezer to hold very outside edge down while massaging cable side from underneath with spooner. Gentle rocking and it finally came out properly!
These instructions are completely inadequate. For anyone who hasn’t done this before, there has to be some image of whatever it is that releases the cables. “Pry the left speaker connector up” without showing the release is just telling me how to turn my computer into junk. . . Which I just did. It’s twelve years old and fully backed up, so I was prepared for this, but I am very disappointed in these instructions. They’ve been bad from the start.
Es wäre besser, wenn man den Ausbau des rechten Lautsprecherkabels besser heraushebt! Ich habe das leider überlesen und den Connector zerstört. Aber ich habe es doch irgendwie geschafft, das der Lautsprecher funktioniert!
Pay attention that there are 2 connectors of speakers! Otherwise, you will realise in step 32 (like I did) that you forgot one of them ;).
Despite being extremely careful, both of these connectors broke off from their position on the logic board. It seems like they were soldered on rather than being just a push fit.
following these instructions exactly removed the entire socket from the board. This needs much more detailed instructions and pictures on how to accomplish this and how the connector is put together. the wide view here is grossly inadequate. This needs a much bigger warning to slide the cable away from the connector as any prying will destroy it. The socket came up and took the pads with it, so there's no soldering it back on. guess I'll just have to go without one audio channel in the onboard speakers
On minute 15:04, in this video, this step is better explained: https://youtu.be/ykqJenHhZJs
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키보드 리본 케이블 커넥터를 덮고 있는 테이프를 벗겨내세요.
On Re-assembly, I found this to be the hardest part. I resorted to using the provided tweezers and taking turns left and right, working it back into its ZIF socket. If someone knows a better way, please share.
I just got done with this and my plus/equal, tilde/apostraphe, brackets/braces and volume up keys are not working. Wondering is this isn't seated correctly or if i damaged something. :-(
sturmjonny - 답글
This is one of the fussier flex cables to reconnect. I'd say it's worth opening it back up and reseating it. Only takes a few minutes—just disconnect the battery and then come straight to this step. Make sure the cable contacts are clean (wipe them with a little isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth), and that the connector is clear of any dirt/debris (give it a good blast or two with some compressed air). Make sure the cable is inserted perfectly flat and straight into the connector (this is the hardest part, just takes patience and a little dexterity). Good luck!
After replacing the battery I also ended up with keys that don't work (ESC, 0, -, p, ;, ', ENTER). Tried reseating the connector, but without any luck. What is weird is that the keys sometimes work, sometimes they don't. Usually they don't in the first 10 minutes or so after I turn on the mac. If the room temperature is lower (if it's cold), the keys are not functional for a longer period of time...
Advice for other people who are changing their macbook battery: take extra care with this connector!
Use the retaining flap to pull the ribbon cable back into the socket.
This keyboard ribbon is so thin. It is like thinner than X-ray film. I was afraid to remove the ribbon from the socket. So, I skipped this step and follow other steps till ‘Step 30’. I didn't remove the logic board as shown in Step 31 and 32. Instead, I removed DC board screws and then DC board from the hole. The cable from the DC board connected at bottom corner of the logic board. I hold the MacBook Pro vertically and lift the logic board slightly and removed the DC board ‘plug’ from the socket. Next, I plugged in the new DC board and followed this procedure in reverse order ( from Step 30 to Step 1). Everything went fine. Important Note: When lifting logic board, please do it carefully and very slowly. Don’t be hurry and don’t break anything. Use magnifying glass and Magnifier in your iPhone to see the tiny parts big and clearly, before removing them.
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스퍼저의 납작한 끝을 사용하여 키보드 리본 케이블 ZIF 소켓의 고정 플랩을 위로 젖히세요.
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스퍼저의 납작한 끝을 사용하여 키보드 리본 케이블을 소켓에서 한쪽을 먼저 밀어내고 다른 쪽을 밀어서 소켓에서 조심스럽게 빼내세요.
What is the connector to the right of the keyboard (shown in the above diagram i.e with battery at the bottom)?
There doesn’t seem to be anything attached to this connector on my system.
The trackpad connector looks quite similar to the leftof thekeyboard connector.
I was having trouble seating the keyboard connection back in. In actuality the issue was the real electronic connector was hidden under logic board after reinstalling the PCB! i was trying to insert the Tape cover instead! Had to re-loosen Logic board and retrieve connector (should see metal traces on the connection strip (that is an easy way to confirm! I had used some scotch tape to hold the cover tape back and this caused me to miss the actual wire harness! I advise anyone doing this process to have a magnifyer with a light so it is easier to see the small parts.
Rather than pushing with the Spudger, I found it much easier to use the tape to pull directly back on the connector.
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스퍼저 끝이나 손톱을 사용하여 마이크 리본 케이블 ZIF 소켓의 고정 플랩을 위로 젖혀 올리세요.
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마이크 리본 케이블을 소켓에서 빼내세요.
Meaning, pull the ribbon cable out horizontally. And be aware that the copper wiring is on the underside of the cable and the topside is just black plastic, so don’t freak out and think you ripped something pulling it out.
This cable is quite stiff and felt very resistant to being pulled out - I gently shaped a small bread tag piece of plastic in to a hook that would gently and evenly pull the cable back without tilting it to one side or the other. It is also a pain getting it back in when replacing the logic board - very stiff. Be patient.
I just used tweezers.
Looks like it had a sticky patch fixing it near the edge of the board - this would make it unwilling to come out of the socket. The patch looks to be the width of the cable and square, so probably pushing a thin something (plastic) under the cable up to the edge of the board would unstick it.
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스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 디스플레이 데이터 케이블 잠금 장치를 뒤집어 컴퓨터의 DC-In 쪽을 향해 돌리세요.
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디스플레이 데이터 케이블을 로직 보드의 소켓에서 똑바로 당겨 빼내세요.
I'd recommend using the pliers.
conflicting... correct is 'Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.'
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로직 보드를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사 여섯 개를 풀어주세요:
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2.6mm T5 Torx 나사 한 개
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5.8mm T5 Torx 나사 두 개
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3.8mm T5 Torx 나사 한 개
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5.2mm 돌출 머리 T5 Torx 나사 1개
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3.5mm 은색 T5 톡스 나사 한 개
anthony: Unplugging the right speaker connector was done in step 23.
No, you are mistaken . Step 23 was for the LEFT speaker. Anthony is correct stating that right speaker disconnect is missing from this guide. NOW is the time to disconnect the right speaker from the LB!
when following on the contrary, its good to check all the ribbons and cables to make sure some are not stuck under board prior to screwing down.
green indicator: raised head screw is the one you removed the rubber cap from in prior step. (I removed – and then replaced — a different screw in this step. Revisited it with more daylight and saw my error.)
auntialias - 답글
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배터리와 가장 가까운 쪽을 들어 올려 로직 보드를 MacBook Pro의 상단으로 돌리세요.
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스퍼저의 납작한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드 하단의 소켓에서 MagSafe 2 커넥터를 조심히 밀어 주세요.
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위쪽에서 시계 방향: 키보드, 트랙패드, 배터리, 오른쪽 스피커, 키보드 백라이트, 디스플레이, 마이크, 헤드폰 잭, 왼쪽 스피커.
In bullet #1 I lifted logic board from left side (nearest battery), tilted toward right side (port side) and pulled to to the left a bit to get ports out of chassis cutouts.
Then I followed bullet #2.
Going revese order, remember about mic connector and backlit connector. Those nasty small tails are easy to omit. Then you will have to repeat disassembly to get them from under mainboard.
@radioerewan @talarohk - I think that's a good idea. I went ahead and added a photo showing all the cable locations to check—hopefully it will save someone some trouble! Thanks for your comments.
This was the single most important pic of the reassembly.
Yes, be very careful before screwing things down. I also forgot the backlight and the display cables. Had the cover for the display cable out, but not the actual cable. I was able to use tweezers to fish the cables out after removing the screws but without removing the whole board.
I had to go back cause I couldn’t figure out where the logic board connector into (under the board). Funny enough i assembled it and it worked though the night and didn’t come on again. Had to go through the whole process b4 i figured it out. Definitely a good idea to at least breeze through all the images
In link MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Logic Board Replacement step 34 the second picture exit the procedure install ZIP
reassembly: so far the hardest step. After getting all the connectors above board, I still couldn’t quite line up the screw holes. It finally turned out that the board was being prevented from being in its full leftward position because the edge of a flange at the top of the USB port was directly positioned against the edge of a flange on the case. I used my thumbnail to press down on the port’s flange so that it slid under the case flange, allowing the board to shift left another half-millimeter and make everything finally line up.
I Just removed the whole power connector with the main board, seemed a little easier. But that’s just me. Good manual thou.
Had a lot of trouble getting the power cable out. Would definitly recomend this.
100% take the power connector out. This guide is amazing but that is something I would change in it. Also I would do step 35 before attempting to remove the logic board. Unsure if there are other implications of this approach.
Am I completely stupid? ...! When I wanted to remove the mainboard, it was still connected to a plug. I searched, but found no indication about this plug. So I had to try to figure out how this plug works. I started trying, which finally tore the console off the board: -o ...: .- ( It is a small plug to the right of the power supply - Pic. #3 top right!!. Comes below the battery. Note, this must be pushed backwards, but may have a lock. What can I do now? If someone has a tip that I do not have to change my motherboard, I am very, very grateful!
I had the same issue where that cable was still connected. I noticed that it was the same type as another one where it needed to be lifted vertically so I did that using the tweesers.
Same problem here, so concerned I might break it I've been working on it for more than an hour! Frustrating to be stuck this late in the process. Anyone know how we missed it in the guide and what it's called?
Definitely unscrew and remove the two screws that hold the MagSafe 2 connector then remove the connector with the board.
The connector that’s not mentioned in the dissasembly manual is the right hand loudspeaker connector. It pulls up, just the same way as the left hand loudspeaker connector does. No locking tab.
Other than that it’s a brilliant dissasembly instruction manual, well done.
I took the logic board out, re-soldered U8900 (well known issue with these boards) and put it back together following the manual in reveres. All works fine now.
One thing that I did which helped. I printed the manual off, then stuck the screws in every case to the page next to where each screw was described using cellotape. So every screw went back exactly where it came from.
It is mentioned in step 23, but I agree it was not very clear (I also realised in this step).
For me, this step was the most hard part when reassemble. Because it is easy to forget or hard to reconnect MagSafe 2 connector properly. I had to give in to professionals just to find out i couldn’t plug this MagSafe 2 connector properly. because of it’s limited angle and i only have 2 hands to do the job while board is lifted.
Instead of disconnecting the magsafe socket, I unscrewed the two screws holding it to the case. Then, when the logic board is removed, the connector will slide out with the logic board. Also useful to if theres a bunch of magnetic junk stuck to the adapter as it becomes easy to clean.
Unscrewing the 2 magsafe screws should be put as a step in the manual. I had a hard time disconnecting the cable and a hard time trying to connect it back when reassembling because there is not enough room to do it and i couldn’t figure out that there is a small clip that holds the connector back in place safely. I had to repeat the role proccess of assemble/disassemble twice in order to fix the magsafe not charging issue. I thought i had lost the connector or damaged the board.
Agreed. I found it necessary to unscrew the magsafe power socket from the main board during disassembly to help unplug the ribbon cable from the main board, then screw in the magsafe power socket before the main board during reassembly. The magsafe power socket plug is too short to try and reattach when the magsafe power socket remain attached to the chasis.
It is not necessary to remove the logic board for this. I did this process without removing the logic board and the 30 steps required to disconnect, remove and reconnect it. It was much easier. Not sure why iFixit insists on removing the logic board: its presence does not block removal of the battery.
Same question here. What’s the reason behind removing entire logic board?
From what i gather, logic board removal facilitates de-adhering the ex-battery units, as the solvent can damage the speakers.
AKin Adams - 답글
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기기를 재조립하려면, 이 지침들을 역순으로 따르세요.
기기를 재조립하려면, 이 지침들을 역순으로 따르세요.
다른 한 분이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
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Christian Kim님은 저희가 세상을 수리하는데 동참하신 분입니다! 기여하시겠습니까?
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After connect the cable aux is not working
deepak selvanathan - 답글
Mine is not working as well after reconnecting, what to do now?
Guillermo Pichardo -
Strange, I'm working on the same model, and it doesn't have a flex here. It's soldered.
Ross Karnes - 답글
Same as Ross. No cable to pry. It’s soldered. But looks like I can continue on anyway
Cameron Melvin - 답글
Mine not soldered.
Paul Clarke - 답글