소개
Tripped over your power cord? At least you don't have to replace the entire logic board.
필요한 것
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Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
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Lift the battery out of the computer.
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Push in the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.
This part scared me, never in an iFixIt guide have I seen a warning like "trying times are ahead".
I used a plastic iPod opening tool and ran it around the seam in the same order pictured. I had the plastic off in less than a minute with almost no fuss.
PohTayToez - 답글
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Turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free.
Paulix의 인용문:
I found it easier and "safer" to use a spudge at the back as well (two on each side of the hinge)
I did too. Thanks, Paulix.
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Remove the following 10 screws from the bottom shield:
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Six 3 mm Phillips
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Three 7.5 mm Phillips
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One 14 mm Phillips
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Remove the single Phillips screw securing the DC-In board.
You might not need to remove the entire DC-In board and cable. This is removed because the DC-In jack blocks the upper case from being lifted off. I just removed the screw and pushed the board slightly in when removing the upper case to provide clearance. You may want to tape the board loosely in place when the screw is out to prevent it from falling out.
georgie333 - 답글
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Angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.
beefybov의 인용문:
You need to undo the adhesive halfway down the cable, so you can lift the DC board to angle it out correctly. beefybov
Good call, beefybov.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
다른 63명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
첨부 문서
댓글 4개
This was a really easy guide thanks. I had ordered a replacement DC in board but found after opening I could have probably repaired the existing one. It had been tripped over a few too many times. I think a bit of re-soldering on the connector where the tape covers in step 17 may have fixed mine. Now I have a backup at least.
Hi,
Does anyone happen to know the values of the L2 and L3 parts on this DC-in board?
I am looking to reuse them but I cannot find any specs.
Thank you and regards,
Vincent