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소개
Prerequisite-only to replace the front panel in the third generation iPad 4G.
필요한 것
동영상 개요
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.
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Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.
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Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.
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Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
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The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
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The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.
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Remove the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD to the aluminum frame.
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Flip up the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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댓글 4개
I would recommend that in cases of replacing shattered screens, that you tape the front panel glass with clear packing tape using overlapping strips, before you begin. This helps to ensure that the panel stays intact, and reduces the chances of puncturing the digitizing layer, and damaging the LCD upon removal.
You want to use clear tape so that you are able to see how any of the glass remnants are shifting during removal.
Comments from a fresh iPad4 WiFi repair.
* Get the assembled panel with the camera bracket and home button. It's worth it.
* These instructions (for the 3?) don't account for the home button cable. It runs along the bottom edge next to the left corner. It's almost impossible to not sever during removal. I have some photos of it I'll try to post when I can figure out how.
* Have light compressed air available to make sure the LCD is clean before reassembling.
* Test fit before pulling off the adhesive strips. I had to do some minor aluminum straightening because of a corner drop, almost blew it had I not test fitted and found this out before sticking it down.
* Test the display and home button before sticking the new glass down, make sure it works, and is all clean.
* I second recommendations for clear tape. Mine was so shattered on the left edge, I had to peel it out in chunks. Tape helped a lot.
* I needed 3 hours for the whole process.
Good luck, and take your time. It can be done!
One problem with the guide saying "To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order" is that some of the trivial reassembly steps get missed. Like the fact that for repairs involving disconnecting the LCD, you may need to hold the home and power buttons simultaneously for 10 seconds to get the display to light up after reconnecting items. I had tried multiple times to get the display to function, and only after doing this step did it finally come on. If this info is somewhere in the guide, or in the iFixit Front Panel Assembly package, I must have missed it. I just wish I had found this advice BEFORE I managed to break the flap on the LCD ZIF connector through repeated attempts to seat the cable "properly"...