소개

Battery not lasting long? Swap it out (requires soldering).

  1. Before opening your iPod, ensure that the hold switch is in the locked position.
    • Before opening your iPod, ensure that the hold switch is in the locked position.

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  2. Carefully insert an iPod opening tool in the seam between the metal casing and white plastic top.
    • Carefully insert an iPod opening tool in the seam between the metal casing and white plastic top.

    • Lift the top bezel off the iPod. It's glued on using a mild adhesive, so some force may be required.

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    • When removing the bottom bezel, be sure not to bend the plastic surrounding the dock connector.

    • Carefully insert an iPod opening tool in the seam between the metal casing and white plastic bezel.

    • Lift the bottom bezel off the iPod. It's glued on using a mild adhesive, so some force may be required.

    I tried using a heat gun to soften the glue, but it ended up melting the white plastic part.

    gordonhamachi - 답글

    • Remove the following two screws:

      • One #00 Phillips screw with a large head near the headphone jack.

      • One #00 Phillips screw with a smaller head near the side of the iPod. This screw strips easily, so be sure to press down firmly on the screwdriver.

    On the iPod I worked on, #000 Phillips was the correct bit. Not #00.

    Eric - 답글

    • Use a metal spudger to carefully pry the headphone jack out of the casing. DO NOT remove the headphone jack from the iPod entirely, as it is connected via a fragile ribbon connector to the click wheel.

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    • Slide the headphone jack out until the white plastic housing is no longer held in place by the metal casing.

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    • Remove the newly-revealed Phillips #00 screw from beneath the headphone jack. Be careful, this screw is easily stripped.

    I logged this as a success, but I actually wound up stripping the screw on this step (I printed out earlier instructions that didn't have the warning). Reassembled it without said screw and I'm hoping for the best!

    anja - 답글

    The screw on this step also stripped when I was following this tutorial, despite being very careful and taking the time for everything. This really happens _REALLY_ easily!

    I too reassembled the iPod without this particular screw. So far I've noticed no side-effects from this.

    Ultimately I was able to complete the whole guide and repair the Nano succesfully! :-D

    wil - 답글

    i have also stripped this screw in this step. can i change the display without removing this screw? any help is greatly appreciated

    Lori Baldridge - 답글

    I used a Phillips #000. No issues with the screws.

    JPagan - 답글

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    • Lift the bottom bezel bracket out of the iPod.

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    • Remove the two Phillips #00 screws from the top of the iPod.

    Had to pick out resin with dentist tool to enable Philips driver to engage screw heads.

    Need to be very slow and careful with sharp end of dentist pick.

    afdelaurier - 답글

    Use a Phillips #000.

    JPagan - 답글

    • The highlighted connector attaches the click wheel and headphone jack to the logic board. This cable must be disconnected from the logic board before continuing.

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    • Use a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable from the logic board. You need to gently pry the connector toward (or up, if you like, the connector is like LEGO® building blocks) the front of the iPod until it comes loose from the logic board.

    • Special hint for the reassembly: Push the connector inside until it is over the corresponding connector of the logic board. Then insert a thin tool over the connector and push it down onto the logic boards connector.

    When reassembling, the jack connector cable broke :'( iPod woking fine, with a new battery.... but no more sound. Grrrr

    TheRV - 답글

    • Use a spudger to push the logic board through the iPod out of the casing. The click wheel and headphone jack should remain in the iPod.

    • Be careful not to catch the headphone jack and click wheel on the logic board as you remove the logic board and display.

    The headphone ribbon and the click wheel is on the top side of the cover, so be sure to apply force toward the down side to avoid scratching the click wheel's PCB.

    lioneltailhardat - 답글

    Before pushing I carefully used the spudger to move the top bezel (with the hold switch) out of the case first. Be careful, it’s got a tiny ribbon cable. But getting that out first made the logic board slide out relatively easily.

    jack.jansen - 답글

    • When removing the logic board, place the tip of the spudger into the hole where you removed the screw and gently push it out. The crevice will keep it in place and decrease the chance of you damaging your board.

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    • Completely remove the display and logic board from the metal casing.

    • When reassembling, ensure that the battery is well seated. If the fit is too tight, the edge of the display will score the inside of the screen window.

    When sliding back the logic board, watch out not to put too much stress on the side with the screen and the window, cause it may lead to annoying stripes on your window

    Jasper Jonkman - 답글

    reassembly : use a small dry paint brush to remove dust and crime from display screen to avoid spots .

    afdelaurier - 답글

    • Use a spudger to scrape away the black glue covering the three battery wires.

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    • Peel up the orange tape covering the three solder points on the other side of the logic board.

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    • Place the desoldering wick on top of the existing solder ball.

    • Place the soldering iron on top of wick above the existing solder ball.

    • Hold the soldering iron in place until the solder melts into the wick.

    • Repeat the same procedure on the remaining two connectors.

    Is it necessary to solder the wires at the board? Is it possible to just clip them and then solder the wires together, or somehow reconnect the new wires with the old clipped wires from the board? Just curious. Seems like it could be easier since you wouldn't need to remove the old solder, but I don't know much about this type of thing. Thanks!

    Lark Davis - 답글

    that should work too, it is the less clean solution, but it takes away some of the potential to fail...

    5mark -

    Before beginning the unsoldering I cut all battery wires near the battery to prevent shortening battery or board. I then commenced to step 17, 18 and 19 with the battery already detached. Instead of pulling the wires out of their soldering holes with the battery I used a little plier to pull each of them out. Holding the soldering iron to the pad on the other side while pulling with the plier makes that quite easy.

    Alexander Schwab - 답글

    I did the same thing too!

    eharada -

    Yep, me too, it's the smart thing to do. The author might add a sidenote to this step ...

    Stefan Van pellicom -

    Or you can use a "Solder Sucker" that has a plastic tip so it's less likely to short out.

    eharada - 답글

    I concur. Although I haven't worked on my nano yet, I have done fine-scale soldering like this before. I've never been comfortable working with braid. I prefer to heat the solder and suck it with a vacuum bulb. That won't get all of it, but it will get enough that you can pull the wires from the other side while applying heat and when they come out, the hole should be clear. (Use of a "helping hands" base that can hold the board in place while you use both hands to pull wires and position the soldering iron will help enormously!)

    But I also agree that desoldering the wires from the board, although cleaner, is also far more difficult. Better to cut the wires near the battery and then solder the new batter to the cut leads. Use some small diameter heat shrink tubing (or electrical tape) to insulate the wires so it doesn't short when you put it all back together.

    shamino - 답글

    Not having braid, I tried my solder sucker. It still took a very long time to clear the holes.

    I had success with a different technique. Leave the existing wires in place. Unsolder them from the old battery, and solder them onto the new battery. On my battery the wires were attached with a solder ball and no other mechanical connection (e.g. wrapping) so they came off easily. The wires are tiny and closely spaced, so take care not to short the battery.

    If you go this route, I recommend unsoldering the outside wires first and then do the inside one. When installing the new battery, it should be easier to connect the middle wire first, and then do the outer wires. Again, take care not to short out the battery connections!

    Although they are close, the danger is no worse than in soldering directly to the motherboard.

    gordonhamachi - 답글

    • Be careful not to scrape the metal rings surrounding the connectors off the logic board. If you accidentally scrape these off, you won't be able to reconnect the replacement battery.

    • Use a metal spudger to carefully straighten the battery wires. Be sure to only touch one contact at a time.

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    • Pull the battery wires through the logic board to free the battery. If the wires don't easily come free, make sure the wires are straight and all the solder has been removed.

    • Slide the three wires of the replacement battery through the holes in the logic board. Going from the edge of the iPod, the order of wires is black, red, white.

    There is some double-sided tape affixing the battery to the central area of the assembly... the spudger can be used to slide down the edges first to lift, then to slide between the battery and tape.

    jasonbuechler - 답글

    use the solder wick again after the old battery wires are removed to clean up the holes, this makes instering the new wires easier.

    Rob - 답글

    You can use the "Blue" masking tape to insulate the new battery wires. Also you can use the "Blue" Masking tape to hold in the wires and the battery before soldering. Reason for the "Blue" tape is it's less sticky and leaves no residue.

    eharada - 답글

    I can't get this step clearly :(( Can someone help me?

    Edmund Park - 답글

    Awww, I can't did it, can someone I don't know why but I can't open it like you did :(( Can someone <a href="http://wheelonroad.net/">check it</a> for me, pls?

    Edmund Park - 답글

    Wow, finally I can find how to replace the battery. I'll try it, Thanks so much! http://apahouse.com/best-fuel-injector-c...

    Kim Aimond - 답글

    • Bend the wires over to prevent them from sliding out of the logic board.

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    • Place the soldering iron onto the battery wire and metal connector for one to two seconds to heat them up.

    • Add the solder wire and wait for the solder to melt onto the wire. Once a small bead has formed around the wire, lift the solder away first and then remove the soldering iron.

    • Continue with the other two connections the same way, taking special care not to solder two of the connectors together.

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결론

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

다른 76명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.

iRobot

회원 가입일: 2009년 09월 24일

1 평판

안내서 623개 작성하였습니다

Unfortunately, could not get adhesive off of battery wires without damaging one of the pads. Also, the solder would not flow to the braid and so am unable to clear solder off of holes-not that it matters at this point. Looks like a failure for now.

Robert Cellucci - 답글

I'm not very good with solder wick, so I pulled out my trusty "solder sucker" and got the holes cleaned out. It's kind of brute force, but it worked.

Jeff D - 답글

Firstly, I ruined my iPod because these instructions are inadequate and do not describe the actual difficulty level which is high. Secondly, fluxed desoldering braid of the appropriate size should be INCLUDED in the kit. It's not like one can go to Home Depot and get the stuff, so it should be included. Two inches of the braid out of a 10' roll(which costs on the average $3 retail) is all that would be required. This screwed me. Thirdly, desoldering the tiny battery terminals requires a fine tip iron. No mention of that.

I ruined the Nano but I'm not too upset as I have another one which will need a battery change sometime as well so I'll just save the trashed one to use for parts and use this battery when the time comes. However the iFixit people need to re-evaluate the kit AND the instructions and make some revisions. iFixit assumes that everyone was born with microsoldering skills and has all the appropriate equipment and that is just not true.

Gus - 답글

All the way on top of the article it says : very difficult.

Just not everybody has the skills or equipment to finish a job like this with good result.

No need to include wick in a kit : if you do electronics repairs, that should be on your bench, always.

Stefan Van pellicom -

Ya know. Common sense sure is passed by when you want someone to hold your hand when you go pee.

Consider what was replied. "Very Difficult". Think of that as

"Expert Level", so some obvious "expert level" knowledge of using these types of tools, you know, common sense, is an obvious requirement. You messed up. Don't blame someone trying to help. That's childish.

Tickle Pickle -

I got all the way to the end without any issues. I had to use a pin/needle to clear the holes for the wire a little, but otherwise it went smoothly. But at the very end, when I went to snap the headphone jack ribbon back in, it was somehow pinched and came right off. Since I was pretty careful at the beginning it had to have been when I was pushing everything back together. Junk now. But close!

jalex - 답글

8/26/2015; Thanks for the guide. I purchased the replacement battery several years ago and finally got around to the task. Took about an hour and is fairly challenging. Having a temp controlled soldering station set at 450 degrees helped.

irvmiyamo - 답글

easy to follow to replace batteries. Thanks,

more http://batterychargersexpert.com

tuandmvn - 답글

As good as these instructions are, there is not nearly enough guidance as to how to remove the battery itself between steps 18 and 19. There is sticky tape there holding it in. a procedure needs to be added how to get it out. at this time i am not sure if i damaged anything trying to figure it out myself.

Steven Casquarelli - 답글

About [step 21] , Don't hold the soldering iron like this or you'll get 3rd degree burns :D

Vittorio Boccone - 답글

I don't know why but I can't open it like you did :(( Can someone <a href="http://wheelonroad.net/">check it</a> ?

Edmund Park - 답글

Goddd, It's to difficult and I can't do it even if I have followed the instruction!

Edmund Park - 답글

Aww, this is really difficult. No matter how hard I try, I still can't do it!

http://mygaragestory.net/

Hayes Young - 답글

Incredible guide - Thank you. Hardest job so far. The hole cleaning and solving took me 30 min - in the end I used a pin to widen the holes for the battery.

Christian Weber - 답글

Oy, oy, oy! You do it for me! Last time I used solder I dropped it on my thumb. Ow.

moofurry - 답글

Furry. MooFurry! Hahaha. Love that screen-name.

Tickle Pickle -

Definitely not an easy repair, but the instructions are good. Had a problem with desoldering the wires and directions weren't clear about removing the battery. It was hard to remove, but just took a little tugging to break the glue under it. Lost 2 screws during reassembly. Love this sight.

heldon - 답글

It looks simple, but you must have hands skilled otherwise the electronic components will die. Thanks for the detailed and practical guidance.

http://itmycar.com

Tracy A. Moore - 답글

The instructions were fine, but I destroyed the iPod anyway. It is really difficult like it says, so don’t even try it if you have little experience like me. I could not get the wires from the old battery out without removing the metal rings, and after that, I just gave up.

blaizon reiserer - 답글

You learned a lot by making the attempt. Do not be discouraged. Next time you will be wiser and do better. There is no substitute for hands-on experience!

gordonhamachi -

Hi,

Are all the screws philips #00, or is the one next to the ear-phones-jack a #000? Or vice versa’: the ear-phones-jack is a #00, and the others are #000? I have really difficulties to get the small screw on the bottom out…Any hints?

thanks

Francoise - 답글

Hi,

Can you please tell me if all the screws are of the size #00, or are there some #000?

I have the impression that the screw on the bottom holding the earphones-jack has a different size than the other ones. True? If yes, which ones are #00 and which ones are #000? I have a lot of difficulties to get the screw on the bottom, in the corner (not holding the earphones-jack). Any ideas to help?

thanks

Francoise - 답글

After much struggle I was able to clean the battery holes, insert the new batteries, and put the iPod back together. It was harder than I thought it would be. The iPod now works and plays music! Unfortunately, a new problem is that the display is now completely blank. When I push the middle button on the iPod, the display switches from black to all white for 10 seconds, and then back to black. I plan to disassemble again and see if perhaps I managed to loosen the display ribbon cable.

gordonhamachi - 답글

After taking my iPod apart a few times trying to cure the white screen, I discovered that I had torn the display ribbon cable. The only way to get a new ribbon cable is to get a new screen. I happened to have a replacement screen so I installed it and now it works fine.

gordonhamachi - 답글

Whew, success but it was a battle. I didn’t order a battery until I had removed dead one without a show-stopping incident, Ifixit couldn’t ship me a battery so I went to ebay (Orderselect, Orem, Utah.) The battery was thicker by 0.75mm so I had to press the whole assembly together using a bench vice, not pretty. I also used a thin plastic sheet to cover logic board as I pressed things back together as something was hanging up inside. I removed the plastic sheet before the screen went in; to my amazement, it booted up.

jandrews33 - 답글

Okay i amd so confused. can anyone help me do it????

Kedamono de Schiel - 답글

My battery is swollen and won’t let me push out the logic board easily. The seat where the screw hole is mentioned to push the board through is completely gone. I put too much pressure and the seat for the screw is history. Anyone had this issue with swollen battery impeding the board from being pushed through?

quelsac - 답글

This is a difficult repair. Ref jandrews33 comment on 1 May above, there is a lip of plastic running across the device just below the window (maybe a part of the screen moulding?). It protrudes into the centre of the case and can catch on components as you slide in the logic board and screen assembly. This is problematic if the replacement battery is even slightly thicker than the one you remove. Mine was. Like jandrews33 recommend using a very thin sheet of plastic to assist inserting the board and screen without anything catching. The sheet needs to be tough so you can pull it out again after assembly. It will also help the black foam rubber screen surround slide into the case. The surround can be a bit sticky otherwise. The orange plastic circuit sheet below the display caught on that lip and ripped so device is scrap now.

timcee - 답글

Additionally, be careful cleaning out the battery holes using a pin. It’s easy to tear the conductor so you have nothing to solder to. I was able recover from the one I messed up by soldering to the other side of the board which was still intact. It looked OK but I don’t know if it worked as I wrecked the device on reassembly as above

timcee - 답글

After replacing the battery, I’m getting a battery with warning sign on screen and constant booting.

JPagan - 답글

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