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I have heard of this before occurring in iPhone 5s and 6’s. Unfortunately I don’t have a quick fix. I believe this is due to a bad or missing coil on the back-light circuit which is an on-board component of the main logic board. The only work around I am aware of that you can do yourself would be setting the brightness at 50% or whatever level stops the flickering on your device and turn off the Auto Brightness feature so you can bare with it. You could reach out to repair specialists such as iPadRehab.com and see if they would fix it for you. It could be an inexpensive fix as long as there was not water damage and there has not been a previous technician inside the device.
더 읽어보기I am terribly sorry to hear your phone has died. The only thing that may help in the future is to make sure you use genuine charge cables and accessories. I’ve seen many charge ports and charge circuits completely fried on phones like this and it typically traces back to an off brand charge cable or water damage. And try to keep your photos backed up in two to three places at all times. Photos can be absolutely invaluable and irreplaceable. Either way, there is an option to recover your data. I believe it is around $300 for data recovery at ipadrehab.com but it may be worth it to you to get the photos back. And it may be possible to have a working phone as well. I should warn you to not tamper with the phone or have someone else try either because the repair shops discourage this and occasionally will not even attempt to fix your phone. Here is the detail list with general pricing: https://www.ipadrehab.com/article.cfm?Ar...
더 읽어보기Depends on your parts and installation procedure. Absolutely DO NOT remove the nut! That nut, if we are talking about the same thing, should only be removed after using spring compressors in order to remove or replace a spring and extreme care must be taken to avoid personal injury. The nut also typically secures the main shaft of the plunger inside the strut tower that allows the strut to further dampen bumps from the road. Full or quick struts are typically installed as a unit or assembly and should only require it be bolted into place with proper torque. Occasionally this requires an alignment depending on the vehicle and the strut.
더 읽어보기Mirror glass alone is available and typically will come with an adhesive, or you will need to acquire a super strong adhesive. But I do not know if it is available for your particular make and model of vehicle. Make sure the replacement mirror glass is available before proceeding. There should be instructions with the replacement glass. If the mirror is heated for de-icing, then there will be a wire attached to the glass. Carefully remove the original glass so as to not damage the wire, if present. Very carefully remove any of the remaining original glass and adhesive being careful not to gouge or damage the plastic behind the glass. Follow the install procedure included with the new glass. This will typically involve cleaning the mounting surface and possibly again with a prep wipe, then apply the adhesive or remove the backing to the pre-installed adhesive strips and install. Hold in place for the recommended time for the adhesive to cure. Allow to fully cure before driving the vehicle.
더 읽어보기Sounds like you’ve checked a good portion of the items that might be at fault. Based on what you’ve already tried and eliminated, I would move on to testing the fuel pressure to ensure proper pressure is reached and maintained. How were the results of the compression test and vacuum test? The only other items that come to mind are the gaskets for the intake and/or plenum possibly failing only for cylinder 3. Are the wire connector/pins and harness in good shape for cylinder 3 fuel injector and coil pack? Normally a single cylinder misfire is a single point of failure, like a cracked piston or head or bad valve but you would have compression differences, a spark plug, coil pack, coil wires/connector, fuel injector, fuel injector wires/connector or an intake manifold or plenum gasket…
더 읽어보기Thoroughly examine the wiring harness to the oxygen sensor connector and then the wires to the sensor for cuts, breaks, abrasions, rubbing, etc. and fix where appropriate. Also examine inside the oxygen sensor connector to make sure the pins are there and are not dirty/corroded. If this does not fix the engine code or there are no issues with the wire harness, I would replace the oxygen sensor. I don’t think they are overly expensive for your vehicle. $20-$80 on rockauto.com.
더 읽어보기My first thought would be a bad or partially broken bulb. Hit any hard bumps lately? Any other lights flicker at all when you switch your headlights on, like your brake lights or dash lights? Does it improve it all or change behavior when you play with the headlight switch? Because it is affecting both sides of your headlights, assuming the bulbs are good, I would then look at the fuse/relay for the headlamps followed by the headlight switch being the possible causes. A corroded or failing fuse/relay could display similar symptoms.
더 읽어보기I don’t think your vehicle is equipped with a fuel filter so your job is done. The fuel pump assembly is an all in one unit inside the gas tank that is comprised of the fuel pump, pressure regulator, sending unit, float, reservoir and a strainer. This is better left alone until it or a component of it fails.
더 읽어보기This can be incredibly difficult and will very likely cause further damage to the door jam paint than the belt buckle has done already. I would go inside the car, grab a hold of the belt and pull hard while pushing or kicking on the door to wedge the belt out. DO NOT KICK OR PUSH ON THE WINDOW. Have someone on the outside of the car hold the door handle in the open position while standing back. Then forcefully push and/or kick the door while pulling on the seat belt to make progress as much as you can until the door finally opens. You may end up needing a new safety belt afterwards.
더 읽어보기Based on your full description, I believe your check engine codes are directly related to the gas leak that occurs when filling the tank. There is a leak somewhere in the gas tank towards the top or something connected to it that when addressed will likely solve the issue. The fuel tank is supposed to be pressurized which is why we start with a faulty gas cap as it is the easiest and cheapest to change. If the leak is bad enough that gas can come out or you smell gas, then there is no way the tank can maintain proper pressure. Code P0441 means the EVAP system is not able to do its job in preventing fuel vapors to escape into the atmosphere. There may be other issues compounding, but as long as the vehicle runs okay, I would only address the gas leak and then address the engine codes one by one at a later date.
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Success! All T3 screws.
The power button felt as though it would not depress as I reassembled. I pulled the mid-frame apart once more and found that the power button had interfered with its flex cable upon assembly and pushed it out of position. What seemed to work best for me was to have the power button protruding out of the case slightly more than it would be normally. Then carefully install the mid-frame button side first, the power button should draw itself in as you snap the mid-frame into place, and ensure proper operation before closing up the device.
For those that lost external audio. I experienced this as well and found a solution to my problem. With the mid-frame removed, there are two very small gold connectors for the external speaker. Look at the mid-frame speaker contacts and find where they make contact with the board. These gold pins may not be making solid contact. Carefully bend them upward VERY slightly. Re-test, bend a bit more if needed, and ensure it works before completing assembly.
matarazz
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회원 가입일 08/04/15
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