I actually ended up figuring it out. It turned out to be related to the CMOS battery. I removed it for 5 minutes, volt tested it to make sure it was getting between 3-3.3v (which it was) and then reinserted it. The PS5 managed to stay on for several hours afterwards, making it through an entire fortnite download and a 2.5 hour movie.

Yes, it's possible. You'll need some tools: a p5 screwdriver and a torx t5 screwdriver. The p5 screwdriver will be used to remove the screws from off the back of the computer and the t5 will be used to remove the hard drive from its holder. You'll need to purchase this device to read the data from the hard drive on another mac Update (04/14/2022): If you put the drive in the same model computer, it will boot up to your user account with your user data, yes. You should not need to reinstall the operating system or do any kind of migration assistant.

It’s always best to remove the failed component from the machine as you can run into a variety of issues by leaving it in. I have had machines shut down, lock up, fail to boot, even so far as fail to post sometimes, when plugging components in that are faulty. Now, that’s not to say that you WILL have any issues, it’s entirely possible that the iMac will run fine if you split the drive and leave the ssd portion of the fusion drive uninitialized, but if you’re asking what’s best, it is always best to remove failed components.

What do you mean by you '“keep having to make the screen on so it won’t black out”? Do you mean you want the ipad to stay on at all times and not go to sleep? Or are you saying that the screen is randomly going dark while using it? If the brightness on your display is dimming, try this: Turning off auto brightness: Settings > Accessibility > Display & Text Size > At the bottom, move the slider to turn off auto brightness and then swipe down from control center and set the brightness to the setting you prefer. If your device is going to sleep when you don’t want it to, you can change the settings in Settings > Display and Brightness > Auto-Lock

Seems to be some kind of frame buffering issue with the LCD. What troubleshooting have you done hardware wise? Have you tried reseating the LCD cable on the motherboard? Most likely it’s a screen, but I would try all the obvious things first: unplug the battery, making sure the cables are properly seated after the drop (including your ssd), and then powering up and seeing if it continues. If it does, I’d say it’s most likely an LCD.

That is part of the original watch OS. It appears when you press and hold the side button and then do a firm press on Power Off before letting go. However, it’s strange that a hard reset hasn’t solved the issue. What happens when you factory reset the device? Are you able to? Is it an endless loop no matter which option on which screen you choose??

Try PRAM reset, reseating the battery, new charger. If all else fails, send the battery back to where you purchased it.

Test with one stick in just one slot. Does it post? If not, try it in another slot. If still no luck, take another one of the new RAM sticks and repeat the process. The goal is to determine if you received defective RAM, or if one of your slots is potentially damaged. You may have also ordered the incorrect RAM. What speed is the new RAM? Try with one of your old sticks and one of your new sticks as well.

It sounds like the cables from your DVD player to the back of your tv are improperly plugged in. Try reseating the connections, or change where they are plugged into. Component or RCA Cables must match the colored plugs on the cable ends to the color coded jacks on your home theatre and TV

You can use any program that has the cabability of playing DVDs. VLC is the most popular program. Windows Media Player is built in to windows. I would recommend resetting the computer if it still has old stuff on it, too.