Hi @ruslansolovka did you figure out what the problem of your iMac was? In fact no components seem to be missing on your board (at least not within the provided image section). Just for comparison I added a picture of my (fully working) A1418 2017 4k iMac of the exact same location. Pleas note, that not all of the ‘stain’ is due to water damage - but I would recommend taking a closer look at the tiny capacitors of the upper circle as well as the same section on the other side of the board Best

Hi, mein Tipp wäre dir etwas Leitsilber zu kaufen, die anderen Kontakte präzise abzukleben, und dann nacheinandner mit einem ganz feinen Pinsel vorsichtig die Leiterbahn “nachmalen” (trocknen lassen und die Prozedur ein paar mal wiederholen). Auf keinen Fall mit einem Lötkolben o.Ä. dran, sonst schmilzt dir das Trägermaterial weg. Wie schaut denn das Gegenstück auf der Platine aus, ist dort keine Korrosion zu sehen? VG

Moin, hast du den Fernseher schon einmal geöffnet? Es könnte sein, dass möglicherweise ein Kondensator beschädigt ist - gerade wenn diese längere Zeit (zu) hohen Temperaturen ausgesetzt sind, geht das zulasten ihrer Lebensdauer. Da das TV-Modell schon etwas älter ist, wäre so etwas nicht ungewöhnlich.

Hi, vielleicht hilft dir das weiter: https://everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/...-core-2-duo-2.16-24-inch-specs.html

Wow, this connector sure is special. What seems to be the issue with the connector? If the flex is torn, it might be possible to solder it (deeper soldering skills required). Other than that, getting a faulty watch of the same kind as a donor might be a way to go for you?!

Hi, in fact I do have the exact same Macbook Pro, so I want to share my current temperatures with you (@ approx. 25°C ambient temp): Although my Macbook neither was in heavy load nor idle, I think it is fair to say, that your temperatures, in case you did not run heavy calculations in the background, are way too high! What were the temp values like before you changed the thermal paste? Which paste did you take and how much of it did you apply ;-)

Hi Stefan, das sieht nach der Klammer aus, die für die Befestigung das Homebutton/Touch-ID-Flexkabels am Lade/Lautsprechermodul genutzt wird. (Um z.B. ein Ablösen des Kabels bei Stürzen etc. zu vermeiden) Gruß Sebastian PS: Schau mal hier: iPhone 5s 분해도 unter Schritt 5 - mittleres Bild. (Das Bauteil ist zwar hier bereits entfernt worden, sprich nicht direkt abgebildet, aber die Position wäre über dem Anschluss des Flexkabels)

Just to keep you guys updated. Meanwhile I replaced the PSU, which didn't have any effect on the described issue. So the PSU is not the culprit here. As a proper startup happens in approx. 1 of 100 startups, it is not that easy to et access to those crash log files. Does anyone know another way? Maybe I can use the hdd to boot my macbook from? One more thing: If I dismantle the Imac and get closer to the upper part of the logicboard there is a sizzling noise somewhere around the CPU area (marked in the following image) I am not 100% sure, but I think it could arise from the component the arrow is pointing towards (What is this anyway?). So while trying to proceed further in identifying the issue, I am looking for a replacement board as well. Does anyone know if all A1418 boards will fit into a late 2012 iMacs case and also do have the same connectors (display, fan, PSU, speakers etc.)? How about a late 2015 non 5k board in particular? Cheers

Here you go, hope its not too late ;) Maybe someone with the proper scematics of the board could tell you the exact model number. Cheers

Hi, maybe one bar has gone bad somehow during your upgrade process? Have you checked on it using only one bar at a time? Are both logic boards of the same kind? I would suggest entering AHT first, maybe it gives you some hint what could be wrong. It's also a good idea to check on the ram by inserting it into an known good system (if possible). Cheers