Gabe

So, I was charging my MacBook air, its fairly warm, I touch my iMac, I notice my pinky feels tingly. I think its my iMac, fre...

I got it to run via RDC (Remote Desktop Connection) but I prefer VNC because its more open. It seems that even after I have t...

I have a bulb out in one of my lamps. Can someone come over and change it, please. Please be sure the wattage is consistent w...

I have a 27" i7 iMac that I bought close to two months ago, and I would like to replace the internal HDD with an SSD, and I h...

You can try to open the phone up again and try to reconnect all the connectors. If that doesn’t work then you may have to try to restore. You can restore without upgrading if you restore on the phone itself.

The only way the phone will be blacklisted (in my experience with AT&T and T-Mobile) is that it will only be blacklisted if the device was reported stolen. If possible, your friend would need to report that he found the phone back to the carrier, and in doing so, (assuming insurance already gave you a phone), you would need to return the old (broken) phone back to them. Third parties may be able to solve your issue to un-blacklisting, but there is no guarantee.

It sounds like something went loose inside, if you do take it apart, try reseating all of the connections, especially the battery.

Check the SMART status of the drive and try running disk utility's repair disk and repair permissions to see if that can help find the issue.

You can install this into the iBook, it's an IDE SSD and should work like a charm.

You can check the connectors between the display and the logic board and ensure it's connected by following this guide. If it still doesn't work then it could either be the logic board or the display. The best thing to do at this point is to find a friend with an old 3Gs and swap display! If it works, then the old display is broken. If it doesn't work, then it's the logic board. You can find the display here and the logic board here.

With some testing, it is definitely safe for the charger if you are charging a macbook that needs more wattage.. The charger will never provide more than the rated wattage, and as such, there is no higher risk of failure. On the other hand, if you use a 45w on your MacBook Pro, which requires an 85w charger while you are playing a game or editing video (using 100% CPU and/or GPU), your battery will still drain but at a must slower rate. I have read that if you let it reach zero, it'll keep on going and kill your battery as the voltage will go too low. I personally use a 60w charger with my MacBook Pro Retina which comes with an 85w charger. It charges a tad bit slower but it's perfectly fine. Here are the screenshots: In this image, I am using my 60w charger while low use (medium brightness, no CPU intensive tasks) but it is charging. It is only pulling 56.04 watts, well within the limits of the 60w charger. Here, I experimented with a 45w charger while I am stress testing with geekbench and full brightness, ...

You can put a 1 GB stick which can be bought here or here Not that it will display a little less than 1.5 Gb when installed, this is due to the fact that a part of the RAM is used for VRAM.

It will work, just remember to format it as HFS+ with GUID! Here's a guide to replace the hard drive iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 and 2210 Hard Drive Replacement You can support ifixit by buying it here!

Yes you can, just use one of these adapters!

It is not possible to upgrade the SSD as it is soldered on. It is theoretically possible to upgrade the Chromebook with 3G but it's not practical.

I had a friend with me so all I did was disconnect the vertical sync ribbon cable, and I had my friend hold up the LCD for a couple of minutes as I swapped out my HDD with an SSD, thus avoiding steps 6-9 and going straight to step 10.