Не уверен, что вы сможете это сделать, но если сможете, то нужен паяльник, медь для снятия припоя, припой, кислота паяльная, запасной D-Pad, подходящий по размерам, ну и скиллуха, куда без неё. Иначе угробите джойкон ещё сильнее. Это всё ещё если пропаяно сквозь плату, как в контроллере Xbox 360, а не как BGA-чип.

На 3DNews есть список ссдшников с проверкой реальной ресурсоёмкости. Это касаемо выбора ссдшника. Не советую экономить на нём. Иначе жить долго не будет. А вот заведётся или нет, тут уже вопрос того, как отреагирует чип безопасности. Ну и насколько корректно будет переустановлена система, если всё же мак примет ссдшник.

На будущее оставлю тут. Panelook в помощь.

Does it discharge even when turned off? If not, then try to factory reset your OS and test a longevity of working with battery power only. If that does happen faster than in tests of this MacBook from internet-reviewers than you’ve got something wrong with either battery or power relay (and repair techicians are an idiots, is they didn’t find a thing, probably). If time that MacBook lived on battery is close to those from reviews, then it was some software that used a lot of CPU or GPU time (probably).

Usually, laptop boards don’t require an internal display to boot, but you’d better to reconnect it to see if it gives something new (assuming, of cource, that you didn’t throw it away). If nothing helps, try to disconnect BIOS battery (usually it’s CR2 battery), wait for a while so that it could drain all energy stored at capacitors as leftovers, connect everything back again (including internal display if possible) and turn on. If that didn’t help, then you might have damaged your MoBo physically somehow, and the only way is to either forget about it of give it to reputable repair technician and see if he finds something (and fix it if he/she can).

Well, if it was sold with i7 option, it might work, but you would need a really great thermal paste (like Arctic Cooling MX-4) to lessen throttling of this sucker, and be sure to connect and reattach everything properly (which means applying new thermal paste, screwing everything in such order as noted on cooling plates, , connecting power cable and turning on iMac for check that everything works when you connected everything, turning off and deattaching a power cable, applying new adhesive stripes for display, and then attaching display, fixing it, and then connecting power cable). Если вдруг будут вопросы, можешь на русском задать в комментах. If you will have any further questions, feel free to ask.

Even if those are possible to find, buy and solder to mobo, it would be a such time-consuming task no one will try to do that. Either find a donor board (that gives you the biggest chances to get that part) or ask someone to hardwire a new battery (since connectors are made of plastic, they are easy to screw up with soldering iron, which is why the chance to find someone able and wishful to do that is pretty low…

Apple’s water detectors trigger even when there was no liquid but a really high humidity. Basically, it’s their way to say “F you!” and make you buy a new phone or parts that worth just as much as a new phone. Just send it to third-party reputable repair shop and ask them to take a look on your 5C’s USB port, if replacement (that you can make) won’t help or you’re afraid to go deeper (that can also needs to be done in some cases). And check more cables on your phone or those cables that didn’t work on other devices. If they still don’t work, then it’s just straight bad luck and you got faulty cables. Is they work as usual (it also means that they charge as fast as usual), then you might consider replacing USB port. About those practices: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XneTBhR... Instruction on replacing Lightning port: iPhone 5c Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement

Not a great idea since it’s almost impossible w/o modifying outer case to solder an additional USB Hub. And USB-C is not an option w/o an external controller, which requires either PCIe lanes or something else that uses PCIe lanes (like Thunderbolt). My suggestion, get an optibay and install an HDD instead of optical drive. You can use that HDD to store some junk or files that don’t need high speeds. That can help your SSD to live a bit longer (I know, you said that storage expancion isn’t what you want rn, but it’s the safest way to do something right now). Also soldering an USB Hub will definetely kill something on your MoBo since there will be problems with either not getting enough current, or screwing up those tiny electrical paths on PCB. So there’s that…

Try that rubber thing on those buttons that work. If they’ll still work, than it seems like an issue with metal thingy underneath that rubber on “A” button. Except it’s one with PCB which means that it’s either a new gamepad or a new PCB to buy.