Problem I have a P-Touch H107 which is mainly similar to the PT-1010. Product picture: All of a sudden this P-Touch didn't...

I have a wine cooler model JC-48A. This is what it looks like: The name ICO in this image is not the brand name. The label...

Background I have an Inventum MK750 milk frother. It's one that has a base with the power supply and electronics, and a...

I have a B&W A7 speaker with a non-working WiFi module. I am sure that it is the WiFi module, because I have a WiFi module...

Situation When the A7 is powered on, the LED starts slowly pulsing Red (Start-up mode). This does not change. Sometimes...

I have a 27 inch iMac type EMC 2429 on which I have exchanged the video board After reassembling the system the fans...

Hi @john32464 If you maybe also need info for the disassembly. The WiFi module looks like this. Top view: Bottom view: If you have the A5 unit opened, you will recognize this WiFi PCB. It's size is 6.5 x 9 cm.

To my knowledge … The LED-color codes for the A7 & A5 are similar. A pulsing red LED, means that the A5/7 system is booting. If it continuous (‘hangs’) in this state, some error is preventing the boot-phase to successfully finish. I have experienced that in most cases, the WiFi module is causing this error. I have tried to repair 2 of those WiFi modules, but it is very hard to diagnose. But I have been successful by replacing the WiFi modules. Then the A5/7 worked properly again. If you look for a replacement WiFi module, double check you are buying a working one. Once you have the speaker casing opened up, the replacement is a piece of cake.

In the meantime, I have replaced most of the capacitors. On the main PCB: (1) 2x 4.7uF / 400v (2) 1x 10uF / 50v (3) 1x 100uF / 16v The 470uF / 25v has not been replaced, as I did not have that one available. On the button PCB: (1) 1x 100uF / 16v Result: Unfortunately no difference. Still no response to powering up, no LED activity. Consideration: Since there is no information available, especially not about the PCB/schematics, it's a bit of guessing. So far I have replaced the relay, and most capacitors. But with no result. Both fuses measure continuity, all switches work and the heating element also seems ok. Checking the components on both PCB's visually, there are none that show damage or any other look than normal. What's left are transistors and IC's. Question: Any advice on my next step?

Thnx Alan! Checking the PCB I have found 5 elco's. I have measured their voltage with power to the board, and the detection switch switched on. You can find the measurements in the attached picture. In the upper left corner there are two same type capacitors (4.7uF/400v). One reads 6v and the other one reads 315v on the multimeter. Question (1) What do you think?

@shawnchen I think I have the same issue. And in my case I am sure it is the WiFi module, because I was able to swap it with a working WiFi module and then the A7 worked perfect. So I am looking for a way to repair the WiFi module. Here's my post. Did you find a solution in the meantime?

The problem could be the type of characters in your WiFi-password. If you have strange characters in your password (for example: @&#%*), create a new password without them and try again.

Hi Anthony Although your post is of some time ago ... I am just working on my 2nd B&W A7 repair. This one seems to have the same issue as yours. I also noticed burn marks in the white thermal pad that touches to the bottom side of the Amplifier PCB. See picture: However, when I look at the section of the Amplifier PCB that touches the thermal pad, I cannot see any burned/damaged component. See picture: You have the damage between Mosfet's Q15 and Q20. My burn marks are between Mosfet Q25 and Q30. Where are you now with the repair? Have you been able to solve it? My questions Does anyone: (1) Know what component L38 is? (type/values) (2) Have a list of all components of the A7? (3) Have the electronics schematics?

In the meantime I have found and solved the problem. In my case the WiFi board appeared to have died. I have found a replacement from a Zeppelin Air, which appeared to have the same WiFi board as the A7. So I got a broken Zeppelin Air as a donor, and exchanged the WiFi board. After that, all is running and playing music again!

Hi @meggie38 Thanks for letting me know you are experiencing the same problem. I haven't solved it yet, there is just very little diagnostics and repair information about the B&W A7 available. Nevertheless, I want to further explore, and will try diagnosing myself. But any help from someone with experience might help. I did find someone from Vietnam, we has a great instruction video on YouTube how to dismantle the A7. His YouTube channel is names 'DELTA mobile'. There's also a website mentioned: deltamodi.net. In the comments below the video are some suggestions for diagnosing and repair. I am trying to get into conatct . From the comments I read, this is what is suggested to check with the A7: a) If a PSU fault, then: measure PSU, should be 5 volts. b) If red LED and power supply buzzing via speaker, then: o Change all capacitors on the 5-volt filter (3 capacitors). o Or change the capacitor on high voltage (300 volt). c) If dead LED (happened after un-/re-plugging), then: o Check the fuse. @meggie38 Is...

Very interesting information! I am currently working on an A7 that suddenly is unable to connect. When turned on it shows a slowly pulsing red LED, and keeps doing that forever. When I then do the factory reset, it shows a quickly pulsing red LED, and also keeps doing that forever. I checked many different things and described them here: https://bit.ly/3NbCko4 Questions (1) Anyone that recognises this? (2) What next step should I take? (3) Did anyone ever try the recovery utility of the Zeppelin with an A7?

Great there is a WiKi on iFixit for the Brother P-Touch!

Problem

P-Touch H107: not printing, only blank labels coming out

I have a P-Touch H107 which is mainly similar to the PT-1010. All of a sudden this P-Touch didn't print any text on the label anymore.

I made a post about this (with pictures, description, what I tested, etc), which can be found here.

I hope you will have time to take a look and share your expertise. Thnx!

Vielen Dank für diesen Zwitscherbox-'teardown'!

Ich bin auf zwei Teile neugierig. Und da Sie die Zwitscherbox auseinander genommen haben, wissen Sie vielleicht mehr darüber.

Es handelt sich um:

(a) Der Bewegungssensor – Welcher Typ/Modell ist das?

(b) Der Lautsprecher – Welcher Typ/Modell ist das?

Der Bewegungssensor scheint ein PIR-Sensor zu sein. Dexze arbeiten normalerweise in einer Entfernung von 3 bis 6 Metern. Aber in einer Toilette muss die Erkennung auf eine viel kürzere Distanz funktionieren.

Hi Cees,

Do you happen to know more about repairing milk brothers?

I have placed a description of a problem with an Inventum milk frother (see link below).

Can you please comment?

Best regards,
Ernst

(Also Dutch)

My Inventum MK750 milk frother is dead, how to repair?