RoggeSound

I have a 15" MBP a1286 2.66GHz. Today when I plugged it in after not using it for months, and pressed the power button, I...

My Sanyo PLC-XP56 worked just fine for a show last week. This week when I tried to use it for a different event, it turned...

Hey Moe. Check out this guide: iPhone 4 Headphone Jack & Volume Control Cable Replacement This will show you how to take your phone apart to get to the inside of the headphone jack, where you can possibly dislodge the stone with a pin or other small tool. If you can't dislodge it, while you're there, you can replace the entire jack with this: iPhone 4 (GSM/AT&T) Headphone Jack & Volume Control Cable Alternatively, since your jack isn't working anyway... you could try a couple of methods... first of all, I'd get a long stick pin and try to move the stone around in the jack. If it was small enough to go in and get stuck, it is small enough to fall out on it's own. Try to get it loose in there and then shake it around a bit and it might just drop out. If that doesn't work, you can try to glue a piece of something to the stone to pull it out. I would try a bamboo skewer with a drop of CA glue such as Zap-A-Gap on the end of it. Press the skewer against the stone and find a way to keep it there without moving...

Think about it one step at a time. Observe everything that's happening. Try to answer these questions to locate the problem. When you push the button, do you hear any sounds from near the door? If you pull the door open a bit when you push the button, does it go up? If you open the door fully, and push the button to close it, does it close? Inside one of the door frames there is a motor and an actuator of some kind. Does the door stay open if you open it? If you don't hear any noise when the button is pressed, perhaps the motor isn't getting power. Check your fuses. If you hear noise, but the door doesn't move, perhaps the actuator is broken. If the door opens when you pull it up a bit, perhaps there's a gear in there that is missing some teeth. Trying these things will help diagnose the problem as a technician would at the repair shop. Once you have an idea of the problem, you can proceed to take apart the vehicle to confirm your idea. Then you can fix the problem.

Maybe this will help. About halfway down the page is a drawing of the transmission with an arrow pointing to the Vehicle Speed Sensor, which is called the Revolution Sensor on this vehicle. http://engine-codes.com/p0720_2006_nissan_altima.html

I'm not sure you can be that careful. I've removed about four or five of them, and although I have had success putting them back on, they're never quite right again. There's not really a good way to get to the clips, and removing them tends to break them. If you get lucky and remove it without bending it significantly, and without breaking too many tabs, you can try to bend the tabs back into place and snap it back on when you're done.

Re-check your wiring. There should be three wires going to your ignition switch. One is ground, one runs the starter, and one is for power on in the run position. If your starter is running, but the car turns off when you release the key, it sounds like your power on wire is not connected or otherwise not functioning correctly.

The thermostat will be where the radiator hose attaches to the engine block. You can't see it without the radiator hose off. A quick internet search tells me that your Audi's thermostat might be near the lower radiator hose, but I've seen them on other cars on the upper hose. Drain your radiator and take off the lower hose. Keep that bucket ready, because the engine block will drain when you take the hose and 'stat off. Once you remove the hose you should see the thermostat in the center of the tube you removed the hose from. It's that brass thing in there. The metal tube that the hose mounts to should have a couple of bolts holding it on. Remove the bolts, give the piece a smack to knock it loose, and pull out the thermostat. Make sure you clean everything up and put a new gasket on before you close it up again.

The microphone on this headset is designed to mute when rotated up, according to the Quick-Start Guide provided by Logitech. Perhaps your mute switch has been knocked out of alignment so it activates when the boom is lower than normal. You could try to carefully take apart the rotational part of the headset and see how the switch is activated and perhaps move it to a better position for you, or simply make the switch not functional anymore, so that the mic never mutes when rotated.

Here is a 96 Piece Security Bit Set that will help you crack the case on that sucker. Once inside, most microwave turntable motors are fairly simple to remove. I've heard that people go around scrounging them out of the trash because they're slow RPM motors that take 120v. Perfect for your disco ball or other slow rotating needs.

You'll have to remove the interior door panel. I'm not familiar with Cherokees specifically, but most door panels are held on by 20 or so clips all around the panel. First look for any screws or bolt heads. These may be under the arm rest or covered by plastic covers. There will probably be some around the console. Remove all the screws and bolts you can find. Then start at the lower corner of the door with a small flat object, like a scraper or small prybar. Insert the tool between the steel of the door and the door panel. You should be able to pop some of the clips, loosening the panel. Work slowly around the bottom and sides of the panel. There will be some clips in the center that you'll have to pop with your hand. When you have the whole panel loose, you'll need to push it up to get it out of the window groove. Be careful as the panel comes off, as it will have wires connecting to the window and door buttons. Detach these wires and set the door panel aside. Now you should be able to see the motor that...

Do you mean the Engine Speed Sensor? This is located on the back of the engine block near the transmission. It is held in by a 10mm bolt.