Minho

Alright, seeing as how I am always answering questions here, I thought I'd reverse the roles here for a bit of fun. I have...

Hello Mac Experts (@mayer, @danj , @reecee and others) I have an iMac 27", Late 2012 that is not booting properly. It is...

This iPad has a dead zone on the left edge of the digitizer, about 5 mm from the edge. I proceeded to do a standard...

Hello Mac Guru's (talking to you @mayer, @danj, @reecee)! I have another MacBook Air A1466, this one an early 2015. The...

Hi everyone. This is a follow-up to my MacBook Air 13” (2014) – Water Damage, will not power on. Thanks to everyone who...

Hi everyone. I have a water damaged (tea) MacBook Air that was dead as a doorknob. No light on the MagSafe, no fan or...

Defective screens after refurbishment are not uncommon, even for a professional refurbisher; no one has 100% successful yields. That’s why reputable vendors/refurbishers offer warranty on their products. Even if you did everything “perfectly”, poor quality parts (from previously heavily impacted screens or lower quality aftermarket parts) can come back to haunt you several weeks after your testing. I always tell my customers that the first few weeks after the repair is when Touch or Display issues can crop up. If the screen survives those initial weeks, it will usually work long term. It could also be caused by a poor installation or other unrelated damage but there’s no way for anyone here to know for certain. At this point, ask the customer to ship it back, inspect it for damage and if no damage is present (torn flex, damaged connectors), send a replacement screen for free. That’s what I expect from my vendors from a customer experience perspective and I’m sure that’s what our customer expects as well.

To be honest, I don’t know how effective they would be even if you did replace them. There is no way the phone retains it’s IP67 specifications after a repair. Even if you diligently put the screen adhesive in place, this is nothing like a robotic installation under clean room environment. Telling a customer the phone is still water resistant is opening yourself up for issues down the road.

This could be caused by an improper installation or a partially defective replacement screen. If you installed the replacement screen yourself, take a look at this guide and double check your work. If it is properly installed, you could try your original screen to see if it has the same issue or not. If the problem only occurs on the replacement screen, contact your vendor/supplier. If the phone was repaired in a shop, go back to see them and they will resolve the problem.

While you don’t normally fiddle with the FCAM Sensor flex when replacing a battery, it is the first thing I would check in this instance. If the Ambient Light Sensor was knocked out of position, it may impede the brightness function. Alternatively, it could be the flex that was damaged, especially if you did not completely remove the screen while doing the battery repair. Either way, check out this guide.

You definitely need the black dot, that is what allows the clicking action to function properly. The dot is adhered to the yellowy film. You can peel this yellow film from another Home Button with a similar design and put it on the HB you are trying to repair.

PN5V7_LCM_AVDDN_CONN typically gives an OL reading or ~1.500V. Obviously an OL reading is not indicative of a short, on the contrary, it represents an open circuit. Your VCC_MAIN reading seems a bit low to me, indicating some short somewhere downstream causing issues. Check the other PP signals on Chestnut (PP5V7 LCM and SAGE) as well as the BOOST line. Check them in diode mode first to see if any are shorted. The 5C is a horrible device to work on :-(.

When measuring voltage rails, they are all done in the same manner. So if you are successfully reading VCC_MAIN and BATT_VCC for example, the same method will apply to reading PP6V0_LCM_BOOST. Now obviously, you have to insure you are probing the correct side of the capacitor (not the ground side). Some rails don’t give the expected voltage under passive conditions, such as a logic board connected to battery only because the power IC is waiting for some kind of timing signal or feedback loop. A good example of this is the ANODE line, it will only read the same as VCC_MAIN unless it detects a screen, in which case it will boost the voltage. Unfortunately, without seeing you in action, I can’t really say if you are doing something wrong. It may be that you are probing a dead circuit and that it is “normal” that you aren’t reading anything. Check on constant rails such as PP_CPU to see if you can measure some voltages.

Who is offering you this “service”? Is it Apple or an independent repair shop? This wouldn’t surprise me if it is Apple. If this is the case, consider going to an independent repair shop as they will repair just the camera and it will be much less expensive than 260 euro. An independent shop should not have to replace a working screen just because it is scratched.

The Front Camera and Flash will not work if the Rear Camera is defective/damaged/disconnected so focus your efforts on the rear camera. Start by verifying if it is properly connected. You can also check the condition of the connector (flex and board) as well as the general condition of the flex cable itself and the logic board. The flex is delicate and even the tiniest tear can cause issues. Likewise for the logic board as there are tiny components all around the connector and damaging or dislodging components can happen. If everything looks okay, you could try to disconnect the FCAM & Flash and see if the Rear camera works by itself. If it doesn’t, then consider replacing the camera.

I agree with Chris, baseband reballs require a lot of heat and in close proximity with the NAND. Even a smooth reball can cause issues and often times it is a slip of the tweezers or even the holder causing some dislodging. Start fresh, probe the main secondary power lines and inspect all affected caps/IC’s to insure nothing moved around.