Minho

Alright, seeing as how I am always answering questions here, I thought I'd reverse the roles here for a bit of fun. I have...

Hello Mac Experts (@mayer, @danj , @reecee and others) I have an iMac 27", Late 2012 that is not booting properly. It is...

This iPad has a dead zone on the left edge of the digitizer, about 5 mm from the edge. I proceeded to do a standard...

Hello Mac Guru's (talking to you @mayer, @danj, @reecee)! I have another MacBook Air A1466, this one an early 2015. The...

Hi everyone. This is a follow-up to my MacBook Air 13” (2014) – Water Damage, will not power on. Thanks to everyone who...

Hi everyone. I have a water damaged (tea) MacBook Air that was dead as a doorknob. No light on the MagSafe, no fan or...

When you say the screen is shaking, I take it to mean that the image is shaking. If that’s the case, then I suspect a defective replacement screen. Touch Disease mainly affects the 6 Plus and the picture you included shows a jittery screen image.

There’s a pretty good chance that the screen was damaged by the drop and that would require a replacement screen. However, you may be luck and it could be a partially disconnected screen. So check out this guide and re-seat the screen connectors. Be careful when you do this and follow the guide to the letter, especially about disconnecting the battery first. If the screen is properly connected, and a replacement screen doesn’t solve the issue, then you have a logic board issue.

It sounds like you may have a defective FCAM module, that is causing excess current draw and shutting down your phone, either because of heat or simply battery drain. Open up your phone and disconnect the FCAM flex to see if the problem goes away. If it does, then you need to replace the FCAM assembly. If this was following a DIY screen repair and the replacement screen was fully populated, then just put your original FCAM Flex in the replacement screen.

You either have a defective replacement screen or you damaged something during the repair. Go back through the guides and double check all the steps. Try these steps: (1) Double check that the flex connectors are properly seated (2) Visually inspect, preferably with magnification, the condition of the connectors on both the flex cables and the logic board (3) Also look to see if any components appear missing or damaged (4) Try connecting the original screen to see if the problem is consistent with the screen or logic board.

As a budding tech, don’t waste your time trying to learn how to unlock an Activation (iCloud) Locked device…it can’t be done. Apple has really done their homework. Most, if not all, online sites are scams. The only way to unlock it is via GSX and if anyone truly has access to this, they are doing something illegal. It’s as simple as that. If it was truly that easy, the market would be flooded with iCloud UNlocked devices and iPhone theft would be a rampant problem. That said, iCloud locked devices do serve a useful purpose in life, at least for a tech. They are great devices to practice on, especially from a micro-soldering perspective as you can try things you might not normally on a fully functional device. They can also serve as a repository of truly original parts but you always have to consider if you are helping or hurting in keeping this cycle going.

Getting a steady reading of 0.44A is usually a phone in DFU mode. What problem, exactly, were you trying to repair? You may have accidentally damaged the board or a flex during your repair. The first thing to do is to do a thorough inspection of the flexes, connectors and surrounding area. Running just a bare board (I believe you tried this) can help you confirm but in your case, you will have to identify a known-good charge port.

This is a belated answer so hopefully it can be of use to folks who search for and find this question. There isn’t much information to go one but this sounds like a typical problem that occurs after a DIY screen replacement. It’s very important to always disconnect the battery before disconnecting/reconnecting the screen assembly. The issue is that the LCD connector has pins that have high voltages (i.e. the backlight is ~20V) and ground in very close proximity. When you fumble around trying to line up the connector plug to the receptacle, you can short out the voltage rail and cause damage to the components in the backlight circuit. If you’re lucky, then only a backlight filter is damaged but other times, the entire circuit could be affected. Either way, this type of repair requires micro-soldering and isn’t really a DIY repair. To test for this, plug your device into a charger or an iTunes enabled computer. Then shine a bright flashlight on the screen. If you can see a dim image, then the backlight...

Several things can cause Battery Drain issues. You will need to isolate some variables in order to get a better understanding of what is wrong. The problem could be a bad replacement battery, excessive current draw from one of the modular components (camera, button, screen) or it could be a problem on the logic board itself. Here are some things to try: It could be a bad replacement battery; there are lots of cheap batteries on the market. (1) Try replacing with a known-good battery or order a good one from here. You could have excessive current draw from one of the modular components; for example, the backlight, a camera or a sensor. You may notice a hot spot on the phone or screen. (1) Fully charge the battery first. (2) Disconnect the battery and then disconnect one modular component at a time to see if you can determine which part is bad. I would start with the front camera flex, then the rear camera, then home button. If that doesn’t make a difference, then you should try to disconnect the screen to...

With water damaged phones, it’s hard to say as each one is unique. What’s clear to me though is that you still have some corrosion, most likely under the shields. I would doubt that the NAND is at cause here because if it were flaky, the phone would boot erratically or not at all. This is typical of water damaged devices, in that they have all kinds of weird symptoms. You could try a more thorough cleanup by removing the shields but you may still get some issues.

It’s very important to always disconnect the battery before disconnecting/reconnecting the screen assembly. The issue is that the LCD connector has pins that have high voltages (i.e. the backlight is ~20V) and ground in very close proximity. When you fumble around trying to line up the connector plug to the receptacle, you can short out the voltage rail and cause damage to the components in the backlight circuit. If you’re lucky, then only a backlight filter is damaged but other times, the entire circuit could be affected. This can also cause boot issues depending on the severity. I would start by testing a bare-bones setup. Start by disconnecting the battery first (always!). Then disconnect the digitizer, LCD, front camera, rear camera and home button extension flex. Now re-connect the battery; you should only have the battery and Lightning Dock flex connected. Connect a known-good, preferably Apple-original Lightning cable to an iTunes enabled computer. If the bare-bones setup does not get recognized by...