dragon788

I found my replacement straps on eBay, they really do have almost everything for sale on there.

Typically there is a Dell Service Manual for their systems and given that you said it was blinking amber I would imagine it is simply a bad battery. You could try unplugging the battery cable from the board as the system should still boot without it and see if it turns on. If not you could try replacing the DC power jack as that is a small inexpensive ($15 on eBay) part that can fail over time. Thankfully Dell and other manufacturers have gotten smarter about not placing it directly on the motherboard where if the port is impacted the wrong way with the cord plugged in it might kill the motherboard as well.

If you open the Crosh shell (Ctrl+Alt+T) I believe there is a command to test the battery's ability to hold a charge if you run `help_advanced` and look through the commands there. Also keep in mind the screen brightness and the number of open tabs and the number of extensions you have running in the background can greatly affect your battery life. I would run the above test once as your user, and then power off the Chromebook complete and boot fresh and rather than logging in again choose the "Guest" session, then use the same command you used in the Crosh shell and see whether the discharge rate is different. You should also try running as Guest for a day or two and see if there is a large difference in battery life if you aren't logged in as your user with all your extensions/tabs/etc. Let us know what the results are and we can give you more advice based on that information.

I ordered a Pixel 2015 LS motherboard took some photos hoping to compare it to the interior of my Pixel 2013 with some side by side pictures, and I upload eda few of the images from the listing. Google leaves some really interesting notes to amuse themselves, repairfolk and those who can't resist taking things apart. You can also see a complete teardown of the 2013 model done by TechRepublic with images here. http://www.techrepublic.com/pictures/cra...-open-the-google-chromebook-pixel/ Update (10/12/2017): I finally got my hands on a complete Pixel LS 2015 (not just the motherboard) and since the touch portion of the screen wasn't working I was going to take it apart to swap screens anyways, so I documented the process. Chromebook Pixel Disassembly

I've picked up a couple replacement screens for 2013/2015 Pixels on eBay. The nice thing about the 2015 LCD I received was that it was removed from a system intact, so the metal case and screen are together and I only have to screw it into the base after removing the broken/non-working screen, no messing with 2 sided tape and getting the old screen+glass out (which is a bear on the 2013 models at least).

I bought a similarly broken one cheap, and the best way I've found to get the screen out is to open the laptop as far as it will go and slip a credit card or similar slim hard plastic piece into the bottom of the glass from the keyboard. There is a double sided tape strip that goes pretty much around the entire border of the glass, but it is easiest to start removing it from the bottom. I was attempting to use the iFixit screen remover, but that only got me part-way. It is handy to have their large locking suction cups for pulling out the main glass portion if it is mostly intact after you get the edges loose. I have a newer iFixit repair kit in addition to the screen repair kit and the small wedges were handy for keeping the edges of the screen I'd already freed up from laying back down and getting stuck again.

If you turn the end of the spudger sideways to get it started you should be able to undo the clips around the edges with a guitar pick. There is some resistance from the thermal pad.

Don't mind at all, really cool you came across this here!

I've taken apart both the original 2013 Chromebook Pixel and the 2015 model and it is awesome how much power was fit into such a small space. My biggest dislike is really the soldered components which let it fit into a smaller space but greatly lowered the repairability especially when it comes to the storage which essentially turns them into bricks after a couple years of use if you don't have access to some fairly high-end equipment to replace the flash storage chips.

In my experience pretty much nothing is compatible between the two.

One is the LCD for video the other is USB for the touchscreen and possibly the webcam.

The bottom of the screen near the middle is the best place to start with a guitar pick and/or credit card and work towards the edges.

If the contacts below those keys were corroded due to liquid spilled or condensation you may need to replace the entire keyboard module. Replacements can be found online or on eBay fairly inexpensively.

There are a couple sellers on eBay with the bands. I believe the term to search is ‘W280 band'. The color selection isn't great but I was psyched to be able to continue using my watch rather than buying a new one and throwing this one in a drawer, especially since I went through the effort of getting it activated on Verizon.

If you don't want to reattach the rubber ‘foot’ or if you would prefer to use your own double-sided tape for easier future access you can carefully roll over just enough of one edge of the glue sticker to grab it and then carefully peel it and it should come off in one piece.

I haven't found anybody that sells an official replacement but it is sometimes possible to get a used one on eBay or it may be possible to assemble your own using a collection of smaller cells from Ali Express. You might be able to find a battery store like Batteries Plus or Batteries And Bulbs that might carry a close equivalent but I wouldn't bet on it.