I’m not experienced in TV set repair, but the inbuilt power supply might have a dead cap (capacitor), or even the mainboard or control board (assuming that’s what the name for the board with the buttons is) could be shorted and therefore dead. Myself, I would worry about the old school electrolytic capacitors that to the bulk of the power switching. those would blow (and i mean blow and stink) first. Just my thoughts.
I’m not familiar with UEFI sound-related codes, but with my (albeit limited) UEFI experience dead/faulty RAM or CPU. You’d have to take it apart to see if the RAM and CPU are Socketed/Removable Here is how to remove them if they are removable: if its a AMD CPU, it should have a lever or something like it or just pull out (DON’T YANK IT OUT UNLESS YOU DON’T SEE A LEVER)if its a Intel CPU, a lever should exist but there is almost always no drop-in socket. As for RAM, there are 2 tabs on either side, pull them away from the stick of RAM and the ram will pop up 45 degrees (ish) if done correctly. AT THIS POINT (lol y caps) the ram can be removed and replaced. PRO TIP: while you are reinstalling the cooler after checking the CPU, Use Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Paste here -> https://noctua.at/en/nt-h1-3-5g (my favorite thermal paste), that will improve performance. BEST OF LUCK MY GUY—Austin (i hate this quarantine bullshit)
It seems to me that these older 9.7 inch models (2016) are pieces of crap. I’ve never had one, but i can only assume a logic board or charging port issue. Since i have done various Android, iPhone, and iPad repairs, i would buy a iCloud locked variant that is otherwise IDENTICAL to the broken iPad. At this point i would start swapping parts and testing it out. Overall, i would just turn silent on and hope and pray it doesn’t vibrate. Best of luck, Austin
Either the dead PSU fried some components while it died when the previous owner had it (possibly CPU, GPU, Maybe some RAM.) or the PSU ruined the Logic Board or even the Display Controller (meaning new display replacment.) IMO Don’t ever buy a iMac with a dead PSU because it can kill/heavily damage at lot more than itself. EDIT: i would suggest to sell it for parts, keep the HDD and buy a iMac with a dead drive instead :)
Hey, Have you thought about a faulty logic board? either that or a faulty drive like you briefly mentioned in the OP. Just tryna help. Here is a tip, If you have access to a Windows 7-8-10 PC, download Microsoft’s ISO Burn tool, put the ISO on a jump drive, and boot your Mac Mini into windows using Bootcamp. At this point you could run a favorite program of mine called ‘Task Manager’ and check your RAM, GPU, CPU, Drives, and network info, and cross-check them with the spec the Mac had when new. this will uncover dead NAND cells in the SSD through the minor loss of storage and possibly dead RAM modules (RAM Cells/Chips, not the whole stick.) and help out with troubleshooting. if everything is fine, i don’t know what else, but i think there are bad sectors in all the ram (PRAM, DRAM, And bad GPU RAM in the extreme case.) and SSD. hit me back if you figure it out. Good luck.
This is likely a Board level issue (because i think the RAM, CPU, and SSD are soldered on most Macbook, Macbook Air, and Macbook Pro models.) and thus you need to unfortunately replace the Logic Board. I saw in the pictures that the Macbook is opened, was it like this before it stopped working?
Hey Liam, I’m not the best at technology repairs, but by the symptoms that were posted, the LCD Data ribbon came loose, not the backlight ribbon, which explains the working backlight. I would say your iPod touch is probably fully working, just open it and firmly but gently resocket all the display ribbon connectors in place and test the device while its open. If it were to therefore work flawlessly albeit opened up, that would solve your solution without spending $60+ USD. If not, replace the display for the 60 bucks USD and end your frustration. Good Luck to you and yours, Austin.