are you sure the camera has failed? open windows search by hitting the windows key and type camera. open the app and see if it is working. you can also look in your bios under your peripheral tab and see if it has been disabled for some reason or if it is even recognized as a device. on that note, open up device manager in windows and see if it is listed there.
your panel has a failed connection on the tab driver. this is typically not repairable without special tools, however there is a workaround that may extend your use for a bit longer until it fails completely. plenty of youtube videos explaining how to fix. doesnt matter the brand or model. youll want to take the back cover off the tv and remove the bezel of the screen to expose the film tabs that is attached to the display itself. there are many all around the unit. look for the tab that is nearest the bars on your display. you can apply pressure to make the connection again to see if the bars disappear. if so, wedge a peice of foam behind it when reassembling to hold the pressure and solve the issue. if there is no change in the picture when applying any pressure then the chip has already failed and youre looking at a new tv if you want it gone. the screens are uneconomical to change out unless you find an exact model match with a good screen and swap for cheap.
такие картинки после замены дисплея? Если да, то проблема связана либо с заменяемым модулем, либо с материнской платой. Я хотел бы повторить ваши шаги по установке и убедиться, что все подключено и безопасно. Следуйте этому руководству, если сможете его перевести. iPhone 7 스크린 교체 Если вы не обнаружите ничего неуместного, например, согнутые контакты на ваших разъемах, и все подключено, как показано в руководстве, вы всегда можете связаться с поставщиком, у которого вы приобрели модуль для замены, и попросить его прислать другой. если он по-прежнему работает так же, значит, это ваша материнская плата, и вы захотите устранить ее.
if the bios is locked down with password, you can try shorting the cmos. remove the cmos battery and short the plus and minus pins together. depending on the security of the bios, this may or may not work. if it does not, youll want to find the latest version of the bios for your system, remove the 8 pin dim ic (eeprom) and reflash it by erasing and rewriting the firmware. youll require a eeprom reader/writer for this…inexpensive tool.
@nick ... if you have an image on screen but no backlight, this will come down to either your power supply led circuit, your mainboard backlight circuit (blon, on/off) or bad leds strips. easiest way to figure this out is to take voltage readings at your power supply and match the readings at the connector leading to the main board and the backlight array against the printed legend on the board. next would be to test the led strips themselves to see if any are shorted out. plenty of reading material on this site and youtube/google already. ( search testing backlights, testing power supply) youll either find your backlights are shorted, your power supply isnt providing voltage as it should or if they both check out, that only leaves the main board not sending proper signals to enable the backlight s to come on.
@lordvader66 … youll want to change your power supply. your wanted graphics card upgrade requires 150w. if youre power supply only pushes 25w on the 4 pin and 50w on the 6 pin… you said it, its only supplying 75w. your card will try and pull the extra current through from your under rated power supply. youre either going to burn up your power supply and/or damage your graphics card when it does burn/short out. i would double check your power supplies specs, list your model here and apply ohms law to figure out what youre really able to push out.
@livenlearn … this is a failed tab driver for your panel. it is either a loose connection or on its way out. you could try and take the bezel off and gain access to the tab it corresponds with in that section. gently apply pressure to the tab and see if the line dissipates. if so, you can wedge some soft foam and re assemble the set. at some point, its going to fail completely. if its under warranty, act now. if not, prepare yourself for a new set down the line.
@chillin014 … heya, ill have to try and pull a schematic on this one. but it looks as though it has 2 strips in total. + , - , 1234. this being the case, the two strips are going to be wired in series. how many leds are there? (3v per x ?, this is roughly what you should be reading from the power supply after powered on and steady with load. will be higher with no load.) to test if there is overcurrent, set your meter to the min/max setting so it will hold the max voltage read. set up your leads to take the reading so it will record the voltage when the set first applies the current to the leds. it should not read higher that the max output listed on your power supply. upload a pic of the back of your power supply. id like to see the traces leading to the if1 and if2. 9 times out of 10, these weird pins arent even hooked up in circuit (no current flow to the pins) as far as the modification they are recommending, this is common practice in the field with known devices that just push too much current....
Jeff Johnson ..No power, no standby light …. this only happens when the ac/dc adapter is gone or the power supply is gone. you replaced the power supply. what voltage are you getting from your ac/dc adapter? im assuming youve checked your wall outlet?