Gaetan

Hello there, I have one problem actually and need help or advise for 2 specific questions. Basically I have a Western...

I don't know about the physical size but looking at the LG G2 user teardown and the Nexus 5 featured teardown: (1) Nexus 5 battery reference is BL-T9 (2) LG G2 battery reference is BL-T7 (3) mAh's are different (4) Finally the battery connectors looks not at the same places I think we can conclude that you can't install a G2 battery on a Nexus 5, sorry. However, there is Nexus 5 batteries available on internet. Look for "LG BL-T9" on google and don't miss the Nexus 5 Battery Replacement guide on iFixit.

I think we can trust the iFixit team to give us such a beautiful teardown as usual! (1) Last year the Nexus 4 was announced on November 13th and the teardown was created on 16th! Who want to bet on the repairability score? The Nexus 4 was 7 of 10. Can the Nexus 5 be better than 7?

Restoring an iMac is very easy in fact, if it's not too old device, even if no restoration disk. If you have no restoration disk, it is possible to restore your Mac over the internet. It should work for almost Mac (iMac, Macbook, Mac mini) produced since about Mid-2010. For device produced arround Mid-2010 to Early 2011, you may have to update the EFI Firmware. There is all the detail here : Computers that can be upgraded to use OS X Internet Recovery. You have to start up the device holding "Command + R" and select the "Recovery HD". It will launch the recovery system. From here you can connect to internet even with wifi, access the disk utility and restore your system directly from Apple servers over the internet! Please note that if you had a heavy crash disk or if want to change your system disk, the Recovery system is not available. In this case, when you will start-up your Mac using the "Command + R" a very simple system will be loaded and will allow you to connect to internet, even with a wifi...

Hello Wilmor, You are right in replacing you HDD with a SSD, it will give your iMac a new life! I'm personaly using a samsung 840 pro on my 13" mbp 2012. I don't know about a braket in order to hold your 2,5" SSD in place of your 3,5" mechanical hard drive. What I would recommend is to keep the actual HDD in its position for the data storage and use the optical drive bay for the SSD. Doing that, you skip the problem with the thermal sensor 2,5/3,5" braket. Optical drive will need to be removed but it is not too used these days, don't you think? Check out this 12.7 mm SATA Optical Bay SATA Hard Drive Enclosure for that purpose. You can install your system on the SSD, data on the HDD. You can keep your optical drive in a drawer and eventually buy an external adapter in case you need to use it one day. For the SSD to buy, you should read this already replied Which SSD should I use to replace my HDD? Make sure to take into consideration all these AHCI, TRIM stuff. You need the TRIM to be active in order to...

Hello, I'm happy to say that I have been able to backup all my data with a temporary repair. It consists in: (1) Disassembly of the HD (2) Temporary repair for the USB connector (3) Backing up all data (4) Installing the HD in a new case All my data are now safe into the same HD but installed into a new standard external USB case. I came across a lot of topics in my research from people in the same situation. It looks like this HD model have an easy to broke USB connector and always unable to access the data directly. I will write a guide with the temporary repair I have used pretty soon. I have made some pictures all the long! I will never buy again such external HD all built-in and I will never recommend WD external models from now. I think the best is really to buy a standard external USB empty case and to put whatever HB inside. Thank you for your help.

Hi Jodie. Basically, "Access" appears on a digital camera screen when the camera is connected to another device (computer) and when the devise is accessing the pictures/video on your camera. It may also mean that the camera is trying to get access to the memory card and for any reason it fail. I think it may be a memory card issue. You should start by: (1) Disconnect any device from your camera (2) Removing the memory card. (3) Removing the battery for a minute. (4) Put the battery again and try to turn on your camera for a few minutes with another memory card or with no memory card if you doesn't have a second one (I see you have an internal memory so that your should be able to take a few pictures with no memory card) By the way you should try to put your memory card in a computer to backup your last pictures. If you are able to do that you can format your memory card by the same occasion. Let us know if it change anything.

Hi, Don't worry, probably kind of warranty void. But if you change the battery you are probably not under warranty anyway! In case you had a metallic part or other conductive material over it, you could put another piece of tape for security but it look it is the battery plastic envelope just over so no risk. Picture from the iPhone 3GS Teardown for reference:

Hi Lou, As you have probably noted, there is no screw to open the iPad 2 and in fact it make opening this iDevice much more complicate that an iPhone for example. This is the reason why all iPad 2 guides are marked "Very difficult"! I wouldn't say it is too risky, it depends on you, your skills and probably also your tools. If you want to make a good job you will have to use the good tools. Look at this iOpener at least! (1) If you decide to access the volume button hole from inside the rear case, the minimum require disassemble is the display. Look at this guide so you will have a better view on what you would have to do. (2) Once you will have the screen out, you will have a better view if further dis-assembly is required. Any further dis-assembly should be piece of cake after what you've done just before! (3) Also remember that you're gonna have to re-install the screen with new adhesive strips after that. (New adhesive strips available here.) Let us know what is your decision, and good luck!

Hi Tonio, If you want to do it hold fashion way, just inactivate the UEFI. Access your BIOS and on the BOOT page you should have possibility to disable UEFI. To inactive the UEFI follow this step by step: (1) Upon bootup press F2 to access BIOS Setup (2) Go on BOOT page (3) Select UEFI Boot Disable (4) Also reconfigure the boot priority so that it point into the correct hard drive. Also, you should be able to recreate an EFI partition from ubuntu live CD/USB using GParted. Hope this will work! (1) Massive edited due to I have been little speedy in my first reply and put wrong information. Sorry!

Hi, Please you give some more details: (1) What settings have you check ? (2) When you said not data sent/received, is it only for LTE/GSM/GPRS/UMTS connectivity or is it also including Wifi, eventually Bluetooth ? (3) What about MMS ? (4) Which country/operator ? If everything works but not LTE/GSM/GPRS/UMTS and mayby MMS also, it is probably a APN (Access Point Name) related issue. *(based on the supposition your S3 is running Android 4.0 or greater, let us know if it's wrong) First of all just make sure Data is activated (we nerve know!): (1) Go into Settings menu (2) Into "Wireless and Networks" section select "More..." (3) Go into "Mobile Networks" (4) Here make sure data are enabled and unchecked "Use only 2G networks" If nothing better at this point: (1) Go into Settings menu (2) Into "Wireless and Networks" section select "More..." (3) Go into "Mobile Networks" (4) And finally "Access Point Name" Here you're gonna have to check the settings according to what your operator require. You can googlize...

Hi Taylor. I just completed this guide and it was not required to disconnect the power and volume ribbon at this step. Both connected ribbon are part of the mid frame.

If you're friend is finally able to get the HD connected to a computer using the original USB/SATA bridge that have its connector broken maybe you can try one of those utility software to restore deleted file. Honestly there is few chance it work if the disk was erased.

Hi Cherisse,

What your computer repair shop probably did was to connect the HD to a desktop computer directly or with another enclosure. Actually this is useless because the USB-SATA bridge used by Wester Digital is somehow encrypting the data. This means that your data will only be readable using the original WD logic board. I hope they did not charge for this?

If you want to restore your data, you have to find a way to connect the logic board USB contacts to a USB port. If the orignal USB connector is broken or can't be used, I would recommend to solder a USB Type A male connector with cable directly on the HD logic board contacts. You can probably recycle this cable from an old device your not using anymore (an hold webcam for exemple). This would require some tools like a solder iron with a very thin tip and maybe a multimeter. Let us know if you need some help to find with wire to connect to which contact.

Thanks Chris for the notice. I have added a warning on your advise. Do you think about any better way to unglue the battery?

I have made this guide based on good quality teardown pictures. I run out of detail pictures for step 3 & 4. Feel free to upgrade the guide if you have a Nexus 5 open and a camera on your hands.

Indeed you can probably technically remove the speaker without removing the battery however removing the battery as soon as possible once you get inside, or before getting inside a device when possible, is not worth! First it prevent from any short circuit that can destroy the device and it is also a way to ensure the device is totally disabled before starting fixing it. Those devices today are always powered even if turned off. So to conclude: Always remove the battery before you make any job inside a device. Do this step in priority as soon as the battery can be removed.

I have made some arrangement to clarify particularly using pictures from the teardown that are just perfect. The original picture was not detailed and did not show the battery in place.

I have made some rearrangement at this guide:

It more logic to remove the tray before removing the screws.

I have used some pictures from the teardown to clarify, particularly for showing the inside of the Nexus 4 showing the battery installed. The original picture did not show the battery. I have also made better reference to the tools.

Yes, you are right! I will have this added shortly.

Thank you.