Make sure this isn’t a WD Ware drive. You can ID these by how new it is - Ware became a problem in 2010 and possibly a few 2009 drives. If it shows as blank in a generic enclosure, it is a Ware drive and you can’t recover the data by dumping the crappy WD USB bridge.
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Make sure this isn’t a WD Ware drive - the Ware drives are usually from 2010-present while 2009 and older is safe - usually. If it shows as blank in a generic enclosure, it is a Ware drive and you can’t recover the data without a WD USB bridge.
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The problem with WD Ware is the WD PCB is needed to decrypt the drive - BUT from what I understand it doesn’t always matter where the PCB came from, as long as the model of the drives on the case match - I think the capacity can even be different but it’s better to do a 1:1 capacity match (Ex: 2TB failed with a used 2TB Live). HOWEVER, if it is unique per drive on the newer Ware drives, this can potentially invalidate the key and you will lose your data. I would try and repair the PCB if you can do so or move the chips that are known to have the keys to the donor PCB - once you have the data on another (non HW encrypted custom built!) drive, you can then reuse the drive from the bad enclosure as the key no longer matters.
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The problem with WD Ware is the WD PCB is needed to decrypt the drive - BUT from what I understand it doesn’t matter where the PCB came from, as long as the model of the drives are the same. I think the capacity can even be different but it’s better to do a 1:1 capacity match IF POSSIBLE (Ex: 2TB failed with a used 2TB Live). The problem is if the key is no longer shared like early Ware drives, this can potentially invalidate the key and you will lose your data. If you value the data, go to a professional or try and save the matched PCB you have unless you know which chips have the encryption key.
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After you get the data off, put it on a non WD drive - or a custom one with a WD drive installed an an open market enclosure. These encrypted drives are a death sentence when the WD bridge dies as it is known to after a few years. The drives are more reliable then the bridge, so a unique encryption key that only works with that pair or series is data suicide.
Make sure this isn’t a WD Ware drive. You can ID these by how new it is - Ware became a problem in 2010 and possibly a few 2009 drives. If it shows as blank in a generic enclosure, it is a Ware drive and you can’t recover the data by dumping the crappy WD USB bridge.
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The problem with WD Ware is the WD PCB is needed to decrypt the drive - BUT from what I understand it doesn’t always matter where the PCB came from, as long as the model of the drives on the case match - I think the capacity can even be different but it’s better to match it 1:1 (Ex: 2TB failed with a used 2TB Live). HOWEVER, if it is unique per drive on the newer drives, this can potentially invalidate the key and you will lose your data. I would try and repair the PCB if you can do so - once you have the data on another (non HW encrypted custom built!) drive, you can then reuse the drive from the bad enclosure as the key no longer matters.
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The problem with WD Ware is the WD PCB is needed to decrypt the drive - BUT from what I understand it doesn’t always matter where the PCB came from, as long as the model of the drives on the case match - I think the capacity can even be different but it’s better to do a 1:1 capacity match (Ex: 2TB failed with a used 2TB Live). HOWEVER, if it is unique per drive on the newer Ware drives, this can potentially invalidate the key and you will lose your data. I would try and repair the PCB if you can do so or move the chips that are known to have the keys to the donor PCB - once you have the data on another (non HW encrypted custom built!) drive, you can then reuse the drive from the bad enclosure as the key no longer matters.
Make sure this isn’t a WD Ware drive. You can ID these by how new it is - Ware became a problem in 2010 and possibly a few 2009 drives. If it shows as blank in a generic enclosure, it is a Ware drive and you can’t recover the data by dumping the crappy WD USB bridge.
-
The problem with WD Ware is the WD PCB is needed to decrypt the drive - BUT from what I understand it doesn’t always matter where the PCB came from, as long as the model of the drives on the case match. HOWEVER, if it is unique per drive on the newer drives, this can potentially invalidate the key and you will lose your data. I would try and repair the PCB if you can do so - once you have the data on another (non HW encrypted custom built!) drive, you can then reuse the drive from the bad enclosure as the key no longer matters.
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The problem with WD Ware is the WD PCB is needed to decrypt the drive - BUT from what I understand it doesn’t always matter where the PCB came from, as long as the model of the drives on the case match - I think the capacity can even be different but it’s better to match it 1:1 (Ex: 2TB failed with a used 2TB Live). HOWEVER, if it is unique per drive on the newer drives, this can potentially invalidate the key and you will lose your data. I would try and repair the PCB if you can do so - once you have the data on another (non HW encrypted custom built!) drive, you can then reuse the drive from the bad enclosure as the key no longer matters.
Make sure this isn’t a WD Ware drive. You can ID these by how new it is - Ware became a problem in 2010 and possibly a few 2009 drives. If it shows as blank in a generic enclosure, it is a Ware drive and you can’t recover the data by dumping the crappy WD USB bridge.
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The problem with WD Ware is the WD PCB is needed to decrypt the drive - BUT from what I understand it doesn’t always matter as long as the model of the drives on the case match. HOWEVER, if it is unique per drive on the newer drives, this can potentially invalidate the key and you will lose your data. I would try and repair the PCB if you can do so - once you have the data on another (non HW encrypted custom built!) drive, you can then reuse the drive from the bad enclosure as the key no longer matters.
+
The problem with WD Ware is the WD PCB is needed to decrypt the drive - BUT from what I understand it doesn’t always matter where the PCB came from, as long as the model of the drives on the case match. HOWEVER, if it is unique per drive on the newer drives, this can potentially invalidate the key and you will lose your data. I would try and repair the PCB if you can do so - once you have the data on another (non HW encrypted custom built!) drive, you can then reuse the drive from the bad enclosure as the key no longer matters.
Make sure this isn’t a WD Ware drive. You can ID these by how new it is - Ware became a problem in 2010 and possibly a few 2009 drives. If it shows as blank in a generic enclosure, it is a Ware drive.
+
Make sure this isn’t a WD Ware drive. You can ID these by how new it is - Ware became a problem in 2010 and possibly a few 2009 drives. If it shows as blank in a generic enclosure, it is a Ware drive and you can’t recover the data by dumping the crappy WD USB bridge.
The problem with WD Ware is the WD PCB is needed to decrypt the drive - BUT from what I understand it doesn’t always matter as long as the model of the drives on the case match. HOWEVER, if it is unique per drive on the newer drives, this can potentially invalidate the key and you will lose your data. I would try and repair the PCB if you can do so - once you have the data on another (non HW encrypted custom built!) drive, you can then reuse the drive from the bad enclosure as the key no longer matters.
Make sure this isn’t a WD Ware drive. You can ID these by how new it is - Ware became a problem in 2010 and possibly a few 2009 drives. If it shows as blank in a generic enclosure, it is a Ware drive.
The problem with WD Ware is the WD PCB is needed to decrypt the drive - BUT from what I understand it doesn’t always matter as long as the model of the drives on the case match. HOWEVER, if it is unique per drive on the newer drives, this can potentially invalidate the key and you will lose your data. I would try and repair the PCB if you can do so - once you have the data on another (non HW encrypted custom built!) drive, you can then reuse the drive from the bad enclosure as the key no longer matters.