Replace broken tabs to keep ram in place

There should be a way to install a foam spacer between the memory door and the ram stick that would make pressure on the ram stick and keep it down in its slot.

Don't feel too guilty. I did the same thing on an old MacBook when I started out repairing Mac laptops. Luckily it was a "practice" laptop to experiment on and wasn't an actual job. Im glad it happened then because now I am extra careful when doing RAM upgrades for friends and clients.

There are many delicate and extremely small screws, parts and wires inside a Mac laptop and no matter how careful you are, something could be pulled off the logic board. When this happens, sometimes a part can be soldered, sometimes not and the logic board has to be replaced which is expensive to do.

The only way I found out about repairing Mac laptops was getting old practice machines that people were throwing out anyway, opening them up, taking them apart, trying out various tools, and studying the inside with a magnifier light.

I always use a Black Stick spudger to gently tweak the RAM clips on laptops to check the resistance. I have had some laptops that it took both hands and a lot of push to get the RAM chip seated properly. This usually happens on the older machines. Good luck though next time

I used a plastic shim to cause pressure on the ram from the bottom case. Works perfectly. Never a problem since!!!

Here’s my fix with a plastic spudger

I accidently broke one clip off, stopped to ponder and came up with a what i think is a nice solution:

I went on and broke off the other clip. By doing so, i managed to create an clear path between both logic board screws to the right and left of the ram. then i went and found a thin plastic piece, which i cut to the correct rectangle size and drilled a couple of holes, one on each side.

I then seated the ram in, pushed it down with the plastic rectangle, and screwed in the logic board screws to firmly hold the ram from jumping out.

I DID have to use the longer fan screws since the originals in those places were too short for the added plastic width.

I used the shorter screw on the fan instead.

It works… and it’s pretty easy to do with a simple ruler, exacto knife, and a heated nail… (or more sophisticated tools if you have them).

Mid 2010 Macbook Pro. I used a zip tie as suggested in previous post - worked great. Zip tie is connected by existing screws.

• Choose zip tie wide enough to fit screw holes. Measure and cut the zip tie to approximate length from screw 1 (lower right) to screw 2 (upper left). You will trim this later. Mark on zip tie where to place first hole (lower right screw).
• Use ice pick to create hole in zip tie - this takes a bit of back and forth to get it to match the screw thread size.
• Screw the first screw into the zip tie and then into the socket. Mark zip tie where 2nd screw hole is to be made.
• Remove first screw (and zip tie) and then make hole for 2nd screw. I made the hole just a little smidge lower down the zip tie to give extra tightening across ram.
• Note: 2nd screw thread is smaller diameter so don’t make that hole as big as the first one.
• Screw in both screws to the zip tie first and then they are held in place when you screw into the sockets. Screw each into sockets.
• Use fingernail clipper to snip off excess tie on each end.

It is 2025 and we've successfully trash repaired a 2012 Macbook Pro using the break both tip clips methodology.
The clear path to the screws that fasten down the motherboard were utilized in combination with a thin plastic cutout from an adult toy's presentation box that I up-cycled

it was not my presentation box