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The Kenmore Elite HE3 is a washing machine by Kenmore.

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f o6 error code

i keep getting a code f 06 ive changed the motor and the fill switch.sears repair guy doesnt know whats wrong, any ideas.

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There are videos on youtube about cleaning out the trap and buying a new thingamajig part for $25 or $50 bucks that fixes the issue. I have cleaned the trap out a few times but I honestly thing disconnecting from power and just restarting is what has fixed it for me in the past. I can't get behind it easily to unplug so I just turn the breaker off for a while and then turn it back on. Has worked like a charm 3 times. The washer usually works for while (months) before I start getting the F6 error intermittently. Eventually it goes back to F6 on every load and cutting the power for a while and then restarting seems to work.

thank you Krista hoping the "hulk" washer gets through this annoying behavior here.

I have the same problem. That doesn’t work. I’ve tried it a million times. Which control board do I need to buy? There’s like 3 choices on the parts page for my model 45872400. Either 8182236, 35 or 37?

We had this identical problem. What worked for us is to unplug the unit for 30 Minutes... not just 2 minutes, 30 minutes or more.

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In the manual for a Kenmore HE3 front loader the instruction for an F06 code

(electrical problem) is :

Select PAUSE/CANCEL twice to cancel the cycle. Select DRAIN/SPIN if there is

excessive water in the washer. Re-select cycle and press START. If the

problem remains, call for service.

After that, you might try unplugging then plugging it in again.


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+ very good, leave unplugged for thirty seconds as you're re-setting the computer

Ace of research strikes again. :o)

GREAT! I'd tried pressing pause twice, per the manual...no luck. Set up a service call set up before I found the answer here and unplugged the machine. Fixed like magic.

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With the generic description of "electrical" problem, I'd suggest first reseating the cables.

  1. Unplug the washer first.
  2. Open the top panel (unscrew three Torx T-20 screws along the back of the panel, or use a 9/32" socket wrench or driver) then slide the panel about half an inch towards the rear of the washer.
  3. There is a grey box hanging from the top rear frame bar. It is the machine's computer, and has several ribbon cables and other connectors plugged into it. Starting with the connector at one end, disconnect it, examine the connector and wires for any possible damage, then reconnect it, being sure that any hold-in clips snap back into place.

Sometimes the act of reseating a connector can break up old oxidation that prevents current from flowing.

If that doesn't help, try visually checking the CPU board for damage or blown parts. It's located inside the grey box. You're most of the way there already, but instructions for accessing it are the first five steps of this guide:

Repairing Kenmore Elite HE3 Washer Control Board Relays

It's a long shot, but you might have a relay problem of the type I mention in that guide. You could consider cleaning the relay contacts. If you find no problem with the relays, it's possible there is other damage to the control unit, or to the wires between the control unit and the various devices.

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+ That's great info! Are you going to be able to take more photos to finish the guide?

I haven't gotten to it yet. The other night I snapped a quick shot with my phone just to have an image people could refer to, but I certainly understand why it's marked as a poor quality photo.

I need to take the time to set up lighting, get the camera on a tripod, clean up all the "stuff" on top of and around it, take it apart, and do the usual "washer-in-the-basement" maintenance that gets ignored for as long as possible. I'm sure you know how that goes.

I actually did this repair last year (yes, the washer is still working fine), and wrote this one up from notes I had taken. I know disassembling it again would give good pictures for people, so I should just do it.

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So, my F-06 Error had to do with my tub actually coming off of the axle or one of the support arms breaking. I even cleaned out the pump drain as suggested. After cancelling the load and unplugging the washer numerous times, I finally got the door unlocked and open. When the door opened you could see the gasket was twisted and the tub was off center from the opening. Guess it is time for a new washer. It lasted almost 12 years. I was hoping to make it to 15, but I am not complaining. :)

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this is exactly my problem. F06 came up mid-cycle and stopped spinning. It started making a funny noise a day or two prior and looks off center when you look inside the gasket at the door. It hasn't had any service issues since I bought it 12.5 years ago. Im guessing I should just buy a new one rather than call for service???

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I've had this problem for many months before I finally diagnosed it correctly. The problem is neither a motor nor a door-latch switch nor a central control module. It is a motor control module, which is located on the left side (as you face the machine) behind the bottom panel (between the washer door and the pedestal).

Disconnect the power (i.e., unplug the machine) and remove the three torx-head screws that hold the panel in place. Then unplug the MCU and remove it from the machine. It is held in place by two screws and an adhesive (or velcro) strap, near the top of the module (at least, that's what I remember). If you have any problems, there are several excellent videos on YouTube, posted by skilled technicians, that will walk you through the entire process. That's what I did and my washer worked flawlessly for about a year. Now it's doing the same old thing again (grrrr!).

Take the module with you to the Sears Parts Store, or copy the numbers from its case and send them to Sears Parts Direct (online). A new module costs between $200 and $300, so have your wallet ready. Installing the new one is simply a reversal of the removal procedure. Good luck--you're going to need it! The Italian company that manufactures these babies isn't particularly reliable when it comes to shipping you parts that actually work. As far as I know, they are the only OEM out there for these electronic components. (Sigh!)

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for our washer the problem was caused by binding of the tub but I don't see how it could be a problem since the washer is only 1 year old in use we heard a few things break on the inside during high spin now the barrel is off set from the opening and no clue how to fix it I cant afford a new washer but I'm looking further into the issue

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F problems on Kenmore HE washers

First off the hoses plug so you take off the bottom front lower panel three nuts and clean out the small collection area with the turning handle. It turns to the left to open and then on the back take off the discharge hose and use a small plumbers snake first and then a vacuum to suck out the clog. After the hoses are cleaned and it still does not start right open the back top lid by taking off the three top bolts and look at the computer and try each connection. Most of the time a connector is loose or has worked loose over time because of the vibration. After that most of the time you have a like new machine.

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Thank you very much. It was the filter in front of the pump it had almost 2.00 worth fo change 2 golf t,s and a candy wrapper. The hoses were open. To me I think they have a easier was to clean this trap out. THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR ADVISE.


Thank you very. It was the filter infront of the discharge pump it had almost 2.00 worth of change in it and 2 golf t's and a candy wrapper. The hoses were open. I think they should have a easier way to clean this trap.

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