i have a ps3 fat and it over heat after minutes of turning it on and red light will flash, i cleaned it and replaced the thermal paste and it still have that problem my brother says it will work of he made the room freezing. but it doesn't make sense because it wont be working for long enough to be overheating.
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maybe the bearings on the fan inside the PS3 are bad, and it is not spinning at optimal RPM’s. Try taking the top cover off and turn the system on to see if the fan is spinning or not.
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Fan could be the problem, but also a thermal sensor inside the chip which needs paper packing to make connection again, or a reflow.
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Abeer Almansour actually this “doesn't make sense because it won’t be working for long enough to be overheating” does make sense. Your main processor only needs second before it goes to a thermal shutdown. The issue here is most likely related to the old YLOD.
You most likely have issues with your GPU processor. It is a flip chip design and the issue could be the solder bumps between the IC and the substrate. You could try the YLOD fix kit from ifixit PlayStation 3 Yellow Light of Death (YLOD) Fix Kit Combining this with a reflow with a heat gun may just complete a good repair. Check this guide for a better explanation. None of this is a permanent fix, nor is it a sure thing either. It all depends on the individual logic board and the damage to the solder joints as well as the chip itself I strongly suggest a reflow with this kit. Of course, a permanent fix would be a total reball. For a reball to be done, you will need the stencil, a rework machine as well as the proper reball temperature template, and a new processor. If you do not have those tools, you can not do a reball. In that case you need to find somebody that will do the repair for you. Yes, you do want to replace the thermal paste as well. Here is a very "quick and dirty" explanation of what causes most of the YLOD (and XBox RROD as well). It is not always a failure of the solder balls which connect the Flip Chip BGA package to the motherboard. It does happen and you can see why [ http://www.bunniestudios.com/blog/?p=223|on here] More commonly however is that the failure is due to the chip design itself.
As you can see the "bumps' are what actually connects the die to the substrate to make the chip complete. If these bumps fail the die does no longer make contact either he substrate and thus no contact with the circuit board. The chip has failed.
Here you can see the space where the bump has failed and no longer makes contact. We are talking microns of space here. So a bit of pressure on the top of the die potentially close the gap. Same with a reflow, it may allow some of material from the bump to reshape and starting to make contact again. The heating of cooling of the chip during use is what will eventually cause it to fail again.
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If the chip was the issue, reflowing wouldn't be a permanent fix still. The reason the die disconnects in the first place is due to bad underfill, which you can't replace. By reflowing it you temporarily fix this, but its not permanent. Even replacing the chip won't help because the only chips you can easily replace on ps3s without modding them is going to have the same defective underfill.
You may have to repair or replace the fan. If its not blowing air through the heatsink, then your PS3 will overheat as described.
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Those things overheat quick the fat’s power converter sits right over the cell processor and video card and since heat will rise, you end up with lots of trapped heat, or at least that is what it seems to me and my simple mind. They make external fans to aide with cooling, or if you want to keep it looking stock, I’ve seen mods online to boost the fans speed to cool down more than normal
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