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The Mr. Coffee TF6 is a 5-cup switch coffeemaker produced by Sunbeam Products and sold under the Mr. Coffee trademark.

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What thermostat does it use?

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I have the TF5, listed in the description for this repair as (almost?) identical to the TF6. It looks like the thermostat is NG, it ohms out as open. I haven’t been able to find the replacement part number.

Also, it doesn’t look like the components attached to it (fuse on one tab, wire on the other) are soldered, how are they attached? Can regular solder be used when replacing the thermostat, or should crimps be used? Thanks!

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I opened up my Mr. Coffee, it is a different model and I can’t see much except a symbol or possible acronym on the one side of the thermal switch/thermostat and the other side is sort of locked in against the heater tube and I wasn’t ready to pull it all apart. Sorry but is “NG” slang for No Good or is that a marking on the thermal switch? Can you provide any marking info or photo of the part?

@drmdolfan - First, in this case NG=no good. Second, my bad., maybe I should have removed it and read the part number instead of just Googling hoping to find a repair parts list :-).

The markings are:

KSD301-G

125V 16A

145

Apparently 'KSD301' (with or without the -G) does not infer temperature. And, I admit, I'm more than a little uncertain if the 145 is in Fahrenheit or Celsius. It's pretty chilly for brewing coffee in Fahrenheit, but maybe it's just a 'this is the temp this area gets to when the rest is at normal operating temperature'. But in Celsius it's pretty hot. I found a website that shows what happens to a coffee maker when the thermostat is bypassed (https://www.electrical-forensics.com/Cof...) and it's not pretty. So putting in a thermostat with too high a cut off is something I would really like to avoid. If you can shed some light on this it would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Jon

Added photo of thermostat to the original post.

It may be that the -G means ceramic body (which mine has).

It looks to be 'Normal' type (this apparently refers to the body size), aluminum end, with 24mm hole spacing on the bracket.

If now I could only be sure what scale the temperature spec is in. :-)

Units are in Celsius.

145 Fahrenheit wouldn't boil water.

the thermostat not only has to support the amperage of the heating element.

the thermostat must switch open over the boiling point of water and under the melting point of the appliance. it would be a bit safer with a switch around ~120C but would result in slower water throughput.

The plastic (polypropylene in this case) would melt at ~170C-200C

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@jon2001, I found the data sheet online at the following link: https://www.calcoelectric.com/images/pdf...

You should be able to get an exact replacement or equivalent rated device from electronics / parts catalogs. Suggest using crimp type wire lugs for this repair. Let me know if you need any additional help.

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Thanks, found the same one myself! Do you know the answer to whether the 145 on my thermostat is in F or C?

Appears to be in Celsius since all values on the data sheet are in degrees C. The “G” apparently refers to an auto reset.

Hi @drmdolfan ,

Would a thermostat for a coffee maker be set that far past boiling point i.e. 145 C (superheated steam?) whereas 145 F = ~63 C which may be just above the preferred temp for coffee brewing?

Unless of course it is used as a safety cut out in a boil dry situation

Just thinking

Hi @jayeff ,

There is an excellent article linked above that describes the various purposes of the thermostat and thermal cutouts of the coffee makers and why they are needed! Take a look and you’ll see these devices are rated in degrees C.

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