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Xbox One controller was introduced in 2016 with the launch of the Xbox One S and adds Bluetooth support for Windows 10/11. This controller fixes many of the design flaws found on the Model 1537/1697 controllers and is much more reliable. This controller has been replaced with the improved Model 1914 controller.

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Why won’t my controller work with batteries but works with usb

Hello everyone

Earlier today I was attempting to do a shell replacement on one of these and I had thought everything was going well for it. All the buttons worked turns on well and I had forgotten to test the batteries. No problem I tried to plug batteries in and no luck. Plug the usb cable in with the batteries it turns on and unplugging the controller with the batteries in keeps it going until the battery is taken out. I took it apart again and tried looking for something that was incorrect. The only thing I found was a factory defect I think anyway of this square over by the where the dpad is located on the board there are two points that look bridged on it. Could this be my issue or am I looking completely in the wrong spot. My other concern was the battery not making contact properly but like I mentioned earlier it works after I jumpstart it with a usb cable so I don’t think it is that.

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Any help is appreciated as always

Edit someone in the comments said it could be a good idea to post what we had done so I uploaded those. To my knowledge I don’t believe these solder points have anything to do with power but I could be wrong we just needed to replace that whole outer casing on the front because of missing triggers

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I don't have an answer to your question, but that entire area you're pointing to on your microscope is a mounting point for a small microchip. Likely they use the same PCB for multiple different models of the controller, and that chip is only there on "Elite" models versus the standard model you have, or vice versa.

Either way: There never was anything there and never should have been, but those points being bridges do not matter in the slightest. That entire area in the copper with the 12 contacts is all ground. All 12 points are ground and they could all be bridged together and it would not affect anything, so long as they are not bridged to any of the 8 data/power contacts on the sides.

You are looking in the wrong place.

@erelectronics ah ok I wouldn’t think so that was just the only thing I could think of. Would you happen to know where I should consider starting to look?

@ultraplankton I have no idea. If it worked before you messed with it, and not after, then the only suggestion I can give is double and triple check everything you did. If you *replaced* anything, and you still have the original, try swapping back to the original? (I am unsure if a "shell replacement" involves any circuitry or not on this controller model.) Maybe something newly installed has a strange short or something.

Sorry, can't really help beyond general suggestions. I only really knew that the thing you were pointing at was in no way a problem and was trying to save your time.

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It can't be a factory defect if it was working before you took it apart. That soldered joint is done at the factory for a reason and not a defect. Something you have done has caused the issues. Try refitting the parts carefully back into the original housing and see if everything works again.

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So the only things we did was do re solder so1 so2 so3 and so4 for the triggers bumpers and the motors do so1 and so2 have to do with starting the controller? These would be the cables from that black shell under the faceplace soldered on the right and left side of the board

@ultraplankton You never mentioned you'd soldered anything. Upload pics of the board or a few showing your soldering so we can maybe see the issue.

Hey sorry @Nigel I didn’t see your reply until now I just reuploaded both spots we soldered both under and not under a microscope

@ultraplankton It’s ok pal, Looking at the soldering I’d redo all of them. Trim down the exposed wires so there is just enough exposed to fit on the solder joint. A couple of wires look long enough to possibly short on another connection. Also invest in some flux to make the joints run so they won’t be so ‘dry’. If it still doesn’t work then fit it back into the original housing and try it unless you haven’t tried already.

@strongbow I do have some flux I will try resoldering with that. Most of the time when I do try testing I try to fit it back in the shell this one in particular tested in the shell because the batteries didn’t have anything to hold themselves down with. If it’s not the solder points do you have any other ideas. I’m a bit stumped since it will work with batteries it just have to be initialized with the micro usb

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