Driver side window will not rise

Fell off track on these vans almost always means one of three things: the glass came out of the regulator's lift plate, the regulator cable snapped, or the track bolts worked loose. You have to get the door panel off to tell which — there's no way to diagnose it from outside.

Tools: a trim removal tool (or a flat screwdriver wrapped in tape), a 10mm socket, a Phillips screwdriver, and a Torx bit set — Chrysler uses Torx screws in the door on these vans. Keep the ignition off while you work so nobody bumps the window switch.

Steps:

1. Get the door panel off. There are screws hidden behind the door handle trim and inside the armrest pull — pop the small covers off and remove them. Then work around the edge of the panel with the trim tool, popping the plastic clips one by one. Lift the panel up and off the top edge — don't yank it straight out, the top hooks over the window sill. Unplug the window switch and door handle cable.
2. Peel the vapor barrier back. It's the plastic sheet glued to the door. Peel it back carefully from the top — you want to stick it back on when you're done, because it keeps water out of the door.
3. Look at the regulator with the glass down. You'll see the glass sitting in a lift plate (a plastic/metal bracket) that rides up and down on a vertical track, driven by a steel cable. Check these three things:
   • Is the glass still in the lift plate? If the glass slipped out of the plate or the sash bolts came loose, that's the easy fix — lower the glass by hand until it seats in the plate, tighten the sash bolts, and check the glass sits square in the front and rear channels.
   • Is the cable snapped or frayed? If you see a loose steel cable hanging in the door, or the cable is wound up in a bird's nest around the motor drum, the regulator is done — the cable can't be repaired, the whole regulator assembly has to be replaced.
   • Are the track bolts loose? The vertical track is bolted to the door at the top and bottom. If a bolt backed out, the track flexes and the glass binds and pops out. Tighten them and check the track is straight.
4. If it's the regulator, replace the assembly. Unbolt the regulator from the door (usually 4–6 bolts), unplug the motor, and lift the whole thing out through the large access hole. A replacement window regulator commonly fits your Town and Country, but always confirm against your vehicle's exact trim and engine and the product's fitment data before buying — and match the motor: power-window regulators come with or without the motor, so either transfer your old motor or buy the version that includes it. Install in reverse, and before you bolt the door panel back on, plug the switch in and run the window all the way up and down twice — it should move smoothly with no grinding, no tilt, and no binding at the top.
5. Before reassembly, clean and lube the channels. Spray silicone lubricant (not WD-40) into the front and rear window channels the glass slides in — dry, gritty channels are what make the glass bind and pop out of the lift plate in the first place. Wipe the glass edges clean while you're at it.

Two things to check before you call it fixed: run the window up and down with the door closed and listen — any grinding means the cable is already fraying and the regulator is on borrowed time. And check the glass sits level at the top — if one corner goes up before the other, the glass isn't seated square in the lift plate and it will pop out again. If the motor runs but nothing moves, that's the cable or the gear in the motor — regulator replacement, not a track adjustment. And keep your fingers clear of the regulator while the switch is plugged in — the cable system pulls hard and fast. If the door internals look bent, the track is cracked, or you're not comfortable with the glass handling, that's the point to stop — if unsure, consult a professional mechanic.

Disclosure: I used an AI tool to help draft this answer.