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Backstitch on a Loose Hem

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Backstitch on a Loose Hem

This guide demonstrates how to complete a hand sewn backstitch to repair a loose hem on a pair of woven cotton shorts. This technique is incredibly versatile and can be used on most seams, hems, and patches.

Hand sewn repairs are a fun and effective way to extend the life of gear at home. DIY repairs won't void the Patagonia warranty—they're actually encouraged!

Patagonia items can also be taken in to a local retail store for repair evaluation or sent in to Patagonia through their mail-in repair service.

Let's get fixing!

Related Articles

Return to the Patagonia Care & Repair homepage.

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    1. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Intro to the backstitch: 1 단계, 이미지 2개 중 1개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Intro to the backstitch: 1 단계, 이미지 2개 중 2개
      • The backstitch is one of the strongest hand sewing stitches.

      • Structure - This technique forms a solid line of stitches on the fabric surface while creating a double-length stitch on the backside.

      • Repair Use - Commonly used in hand sewn repairs as a substitute for machine stitching. Its looping structure provides strength, stability, and slight elasticity when pulled.

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    2. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Assess the damage: 2 단계, 이미지 3개 중 1개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Assess the damage: 2 단계, 이미지 3개 중 2개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Assess the damage: 2 단계, 이미지 3개 중 3개
      • Locate the area with missing stitching and trim away any loose or hanging threads.

      • Mark the new stitch line with chalk or a heat-erasable pen.

      • If stitch holes from the previous stitching are visible, these can be used as a guide for the new stitch line.

      • If the opening is larger than a few inches, use pins or binder clips to secure the pieces of fabric together while sewing.

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    3. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Start the stitch: 3 단계, 이미지 3개 중 1개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Start the stitch: 3 단계, 이미지 3개 중 2개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Start the stitch: 3 단계, 이미지 3개 중 3개
      • Thread the needle with a length of thread approximately 24 inches (~61 cm) long and tie a knot at one end of the thread. For more details see Needles and Thread.

      • The pictured repair uses contrast thread for visibility, but matching thread will make this repair almost invisible.

      • From the backside of the seam, pierce the needle through to the front, overlapping any existing stitching by at least 1/2 inch (~13 mm).

      • If the seam doesn't have a front and backside, choose either.

      • Pull the thread through until the knot lies flush against the fabric.

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    4. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: 4 단계, 이미지 3개 중 1개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: 4 단계, 이미지 3개 중 2개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: 4 단계, 이미지 3개 중 3개
      • From the front side, pierce the seam one stitch length behind the point where the thread emerges, moving in the opposite direction of the stitching path.

      • Pull needle and thread through to the backside.

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    5. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: 5 단계, 이미지 3개 중 1개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: 5 단계, 이미지 3개 중 2개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Make the backstitch: 5 단계, 이미지 3개 중 3개
      • From the backside, pierce the seam two stitch lengths forward, moving in the direction of the stitching path.

      • Pull the needle and thread through to the front side.

      • Repeat steps 4 and 5 to create a continuous backstitch along the marked seam line.

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    6. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Stitch in one movement: 6 단계, 이미지 3개 중 1개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Stitch in one movement: 6 단계, 이미지 3개 중 2개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Stitch in one movement: 6 단계, 이미지 3개 중 3개
      • To backstitch without repeatedly flipping the fabric, insert the needle into the seam one stitch length behind the current position and guide it to exit one stitch length forward.

      • The working thread should lie in the middle of the needle's entry and exit points.

      • Pull the thread through to secure the stitch.

      • This method is quicker but more prone to tangling on the backside. Periodically check that the thread is pulling through smoothly.

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    7. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Tie off the thread: 7 단계, 이미지 3개 중 1개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Tie off the thread: 7 단계, 이미지 3개 중 2개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Tie off the thread: 7 단계, 이미지 3개 중 3개
      • Continue until the original stitch has been overlapped by at least 1/2 inch (13 mm) and finish with the needle on the backside.

      • Without pulling the needle all the way through, begin making a small stitch on the backside of the fabric.

      • Wrap the working thread around the needle point three times.

      • Pull the needle through the fabric and loops of thread. The wrapped thread will create a knot that lies flush with the fabric.

      • For a more detailed explanation see Knot Thread to the Fabric (2 Ways).

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    8. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Trim the thread: 8 단계, 이미지 3개 중 1개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Trim the thread: 8 단계, 이미지 3개 중 2개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Trim the thread: 8 단계, 이미지 3개 중 3개
      • Ensure the knot is secure, then snip away excess thread.

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    9. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Quality check: 9 단계, 이미지 1개 중 1개
      • Ensure the stitch securely closes the seam and can withstand tension.

      • Add additional lines of stitching if necessary.

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    10. Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Troubleshooting: 10 단계, 이미지 3개 중 1개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Troubleshooting: 10 단계, 이미지 3개 중 2개 Backstitch on a Loose Hem, Troubleshooting: 10 단계, 이미지 3개 중 3개
      • TANGLED THREAD: To address tangles or knots in the thread:

      • Start by using the tip of the needle to work the knot loose.

      • If this fails, gently tug on either end of the thread to pull out the knot.

      • If this method is also unsuccessful, cut the thread and start a new stitch, overlapping previous stitches by at least 1/2 inch (~13 mm).

      • Ensure any knot is cut out completely.

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