난이도
보통
단계
5
소요 시간
10 - 30 분
- Lower Case 2 단계
- Battery 3 단계
추천 가이드
해당 안내서는 iFixit 직원들이 뛰어난 안내서로 판명하였습니다.
소개
Follow this guide to replace the battery on your Mid 2012 MacBook Air 11”.
Note: If there is a thin plastic film on your replacement battery, do not attempt to remove it. It is glued on and protects the battery pack while it is inside the MacBook.
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Remove the following ten screws:
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Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
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Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally contact its socket.
I performed this on my MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2011), model A1370. Rather than using the spudger to un-attach the batter connector, I gripped either side with my fingers as the second photographs indicated, and gently pry/wiggled it up and out by initially pinching into the side gap with my finger nails. The reason I did it this way is that the spudger works by leverage and I was afraid to rest it against the components surrounding the connector. The photos and instructions are excellent and illustrate the maneuver perfectly.
Hello there... In my case by battery exploded.... Can I still try to change it using these instructions?
The instruction to lift the edges of battery connector before disconnecting is certainly not clear. In my case, the cconnector pins came off the board with the battery, requiring further costly repairs. I would suggest that this instruction be more specific and include a caution.
It worked fine for me, but as others mentioned, you need to be careful to remove the battery connector from the motherboard connector and not accidentally remove the motherboard connector from the motherboard itself.
Additionally, on reassembly, I found that quit a bit of pressure was needed to get the new battery's connector to snap in place. More than I was comfortable applying, but it was necessary and it worked without a problem.
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Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
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Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws
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One 6 mm T5 Torx screw
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Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws
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Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.
I'm having trouble reconnecting the pins to the new battery cable. Any suggestions?
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
다른 86명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
댓글 9개
I followed the directions in the reverse order, but now I have the old battery in my laptop again. Help?
Great guide. Identified my parts, ordered them per the suggestions, and had the battery swapped out in 10 minutes. I like to use a magnetic sheet to hold and organize my screws for repairs like this - it keeps the proper size screws in the proper holes. If you don't have access to magnetic sheeting like I do from my graphics shop, an oval car magnet or a fridge magnet will work as well. The screwdriver recommended are of better quality than I expected. Thanks Ifixit.
Incredibly easy - done in 15 minutes.
After installing new battery Macbook air says "battery not charging" *has an X on the battery indicator*.
The MACsafe2 charger has an orange light.
The battery information indicates;
battery installed: yes
condition: Normal.
Full charge capacity: 5000 (mAh).
Charge remaining: no
Fully charged: no
Charging: no
cycle count: 0
Amperage(mA): 0
Voltage(Mv): 7500
Did a SMC reset a few time.. still no luck. please help
awesome instructions…it worked! My MacBook Air 2012 now has a better battery and it was easy. Thank you
Please note that the screws holding the lower case on go in at a slight angle. If you don’t hold the screwdriver at this angle the tiny torx bit won’t mate properly with the head of the screw and you could damage the screw or the bit. If you don’t screw them back in at the correct angle you could have the same problem, or strip the threads on the case and/or have the screws sticking out a bit and they could snag on or scratch something. However, the instructions are correct.
When you say:
Remove the following ten screws:
Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.
Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?
Nerdily yours,
Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)
larryleveen - 답글
The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).
Michael Welham -
I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.
Allen - 답글
The magnetic mat is
GERARD SZAREK -
Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.
Frank O'Carroll - 답글