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이 안내서를 사용하여 왼편 스피커를 교체하세요.

일반적 노트북 사용시, 왼편 스피커는 대부분 안내서의 오른편에 있습니다 (노트북이 뒤집혀 있음).

    • 하단 케이스를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사 열 개를 풀어주세요:

    • 2.3mm P5 Pentalobe/펜타로브/별나사 두 개

    • 3.0mm P5 Pentalobe/펜타로브/별나사 여덟 개

    • 이 수리를 하는 동안 각 나사를 기억하고 기기 손상을 방지하기 위해 원래 위치로 정확히 돌아가는 것을 확인하세요.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 답글

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 답글

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 답글

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 답글

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 답글

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 답글

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 답글

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 답글

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 답글

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - 답글

  1. 상단 케이스와 하단 케이스 사이에 손가락을 끼워 넣으세요.
    • 상단 케이스와 하단 케이스 사이에 손가락을 끼워 넣으세요.

    • 상단 케이스에서 하단 케이스를 조심히 당기세요.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 답글

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 답글

  2. 하단 케이스는 플라스틱 클립 두 개로 상단 케이스 중앙에 연결되어 있습니다. 재조립하는 동안 하단 케이스 중앙을 살살 눌러 플라스틱 클립 두 개를 다시 부착하세요.
    • 하단 케이스는 플라스틱 클립 두 개로 상단 케이스 중앙에 연결되어 있습니다.

    • 재조립하는 동안 하단 케이스 중앙을 살살 눌러 플라스틱 클립 두 개를 다시 부착하세요.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 답글

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    Can you make a youtube video showing the steps? I am not sure how to proceed with this step. I want to see it done.

    Thanks.

    Carol Garrett - 답글

  3. 필요하다면, 배터리 접촉 보드에 붙어있는 플라스틱 커버를 분리하세요.
    • 필요하다면, 배터리 접촉 보드에 붙어있는 플라스틱 커버를 분리하세요.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - 답글

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 답글

  4. Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드 소켓에서 배터리 커넥터를 똑바로 들어 올리세요. 소켓이 아닌 커넥터 자체만 들어 올려야 합니다. 그렇지 않으면 로직 보드를 영구적으로 손상할 수 있는 위험이 있습니다.
    • Spudger/스퍼저의 평평한 끝을 사용하여 로직 보드 소켓에서 배터리 커넥터를 똑바로 들어 올리세요.

    • 소켓이 아닌 커넥터 자체만 들어 올려야 합니다. 그렇지 않으면 로직 보드를 영구적으로 손상할 수 있는 위험이 있습니다.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 답글

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 답글

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 답글

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 답글

  5. 배터리 케이블을 구부려 작업 도중 실수로 소켓에 닿지 않도록 하세요.
    • 배터리 케이블을 구부려 작업 도중 실수로 소켓에 닿지 않도록 하세요.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 답글

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 답글

  6. 커넥터 근처 왼편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저 끝을 넣어서 로직 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요. 커넥터 근처 왼편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저 끝을 넣어서 로직 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요.
    • 커넥터 근처 왼편 스피커 케이블 밑으로 spudger/스퍼저 끝을 넣어서 로직 보드 소켓에서 들어 올리세요.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - 답글

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - 답글

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - 답글

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 답글

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - 답글

  7. 왼편 스피커를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:
    • 왼편 스피커를 상단 케이스에 고정하는 다음 나사들을 풀어주세요:

    • 5.7mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    • 6.5mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    • 3.8mm T5 Torx/톡스 나사 한 개

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 답글

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - 답글

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - 답글

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

    Where can I replace these screws?

    One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    kate Taverna - 답글

  8. 왼쪽 스피커 모서리를 들어 올리고 배터리 밖으로 밀어서 상단 케이스에서 분리하세요. 케이스 측면의 나사 구멍 포스트에 스피커 케이블이 걸리지 않도록 주의하세요. 케이스 측면의 나사 구멍 포스트에 스피커 케이블이 걸리지 않도록 주의하세요.
    • 왼쪽 스피커 모서리를 들어 올리고 배터리 밖으로 밀어서 상단 케이스에서 분리하세요.

    • 케이스 측면의 나사 구멍 포스트에 스피커 케이블이 걸리지 않도록 주의하세요.

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - 답글

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine - 답글

    after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….

    kotakidisoklp - 답글

    Réparation faite en moins de 5 minutes chrono (j’avais lu et relu le tuto et l’avais répété autant de fois “dans ma tête” le temps de la réception du haut parleur endommagé). Réparation très facile, faite en moins de 10 minutes tout compris. Vraiment bravo et merci !

    Eric - 답글

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Sam Goldheart

회원 가입일: 2012년 10월 18일

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안내서 547개 작성하였습니다

iFixit iFixit 회원

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A very straightforward repair. Thanks for the excellent instructions!

Andrew - 답글

is the same process for the right speaker? thank you very much Sam Lionheart!

Tonino - 답글

Pretty much, there's another cable to disconnect, but we have a whole guide for the right speaker, too! Best of luck!

Sam Goldheart -

Hi! Are the L/R speakers compatible with the 13" Early 2015 models?

fylungster - 답글

Great guide. I was able to dismantle the speaker and fixed the blown left speaker. Fit it back and it worked. Now, i’ll do that for the right speaker.

iamleongch - 답글

Awesome guide. Able to fix the left speaker. Thank you very much!

tsfdye - 답글

Went just as expected, thanks for the pro guidance!

Brian Morisky - 답글

My MBP lost its bass after replacing the left speaker following this guide. I don’t know what to do next.

Wanik - 답글

Great guide! Feels like an easier replacement than “moderate”. My only note is to remind folks to remove the plastic tab protecting the adhesive on the underside, next to the connector. Seems like a no-brainer, but it may not be for everyone!

Jordan Shuster - 답글

Is there a reason why you have to disconnect the battery during repair? Is it just to avoid accidental discharges and logic board problems?

Allen Brooks - 답글

Hi! Would this be the same process for the mid 2014 MacBook pro 13” Retina model? Thank you!

Abbie Donaldson - 답글

twas a breeze following this page! Thanks!

Sunderrajan Ramachandran - 답글

Be sure to check your pan Left and Right after the repair to test. Go to System Preferences / Sound / Output … Balance.

There’s an other place to check for sound output volume. In the top menu Go / Utilities / Audio MIDI Setup … in Built-in Output. Be sure that the Channel Volume is equal.

Now, listen to the music!

Jean-Francois Dion - 답글

Easy to follow and quick! Thanks!

Obed Ruiz - 답글

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